Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion tasting
Watson's, Hong Kong
Tasted Thursday, November 8, 2012 by DonalOB with 632 views
Introduction
Conducted by Jean-Philippe Delmas, the wine-maker.
I had visited these estates earlier in the year so was delighted to try these wines again with the maker. These are small estates, right in the town, and apparently the oldest first-growth.
The sub-soil is a strong influence giving cigar box and burnt coffee notes. There is a big difference between HB and La Mission, even though the vineyards are right beside one another, and the wines are made exactly the same way - La Mission tends to be more powerful. They produce about 7,000 bottles of La Mission and 10,000 bottles of HB every year.
He told a nice story about his father, Jean-Bernard's, retirement dinner (the previous maker) in 2003 - the owner brought out a bottle of 1848 from the cellar: it was very light in colour, like Rose, almost orange. However, it was still alive and had all the usual HB flavours, although dominated a little by the remaining acid. 'Only best bottles not best vintage'.
2009 Clarendelle Bordeaux Blanc 88 Points
France, Bordeaux
Launched in Hong Kong in 2007. Made from both Haut-Brion estate grapes and various other estates in Graves. Semillon (for fatness) and Sauvignon (for citrus freshness). The Prince of Luxembourg wanted to create a decent house-white for restaurants.
Light citrus gooseberry, fat and mellow in mouth with medium acidity. Good value.
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2007 Clarendelle Bordeaux 88 Points
France, Bordeaux
Like the Clarandelle Blanc (see previous note), made as a restaurant 'house-red'. 60% Merlot / 30% Cab. Sauv. / 10% Cab. Franc from Medoc and St. Emilion. 20% new oak. 'Balance & harmony with some complexity'. The '07 was ready before the '06 so was released first.
Smokey, cigar box, bit horsey. Fat in palate, smooth but a bit hot.
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2007 Château Haut-Brion Le Clarence de Haut-Brion 90 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
New name and bottle shape for the 'Bahans' second wine from '07.
Muted with blackberry. Some concentration and ripeness despite the vintage.
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2004 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Mostly Merlot. 50 micro-plots - they try to vinify separately but not all can be.
Complex - smoke and blackberry, rich in mouth, round, smooth, plenty of tannins. Should be drunk from 10 - 20/30 years old.
Delmas advises us to, 'open a bottle a year, when right drink it all". Indeed.
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2006 Château Haut-Brion 95 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
More delicate than the La Mission. Very rich and full - what I expect of HB. However the tannins are too dominant at the moment giving a slight bitterness. Stash this away if you've got it.
On the grape percentages Delmas tells us, 'my passion is for making Haut Brion, not Cab. or Merlot, so I don't even know the percentages.'
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2001 Château Haut-Brion 95 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
This is apparently an underrated vintage - I would agree with that; at least the prices aren't crippling. The year was not good for Cab but fine for Merlot. Delmas advises buying 2001 Pommerol!
Great nose - spicy, smokey, sweet black fruits. Balanced in mouth, although plenty of tannins they're not harsh.
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