Rieslingfeier - BYOB Main Event

Rouge Tomate, NYC
Tasted Saturday, February 16, 2013 by Seth Rosenberg with 967 views

Introduction

OK. This was nuts. All the bent up energy of a hundred Riesling fanatics, combined with some of the great German winemakers of our time, and a first rate set of Sommeliers. The event was the climax of Rieslingfeier - the BYO dinner. Each table had a winemaker, or another Riesling celebrity, two somms, and a nearby storage table for all the bottles. My father and I were sat at the 'Sonnenuhr' table with Justin C, Danielle K, Katharina Prum (and others). Rouge Tomate designed a meal to go specifically with Riesling, and the courses were ordered to pair with the various levels: dry to start, then sweeter wines in the middle, and then the bruising sweet wines at the end. I had never eaten there before, and the food was superb: delicious, but focused and elegant ... the perfect accompaniment to the wines. Please note - my scores here are rather high. There are two factors behind this: 1) the wines at this event were amazing, and 2) this list reflects triage that I did on the floor - spending time with and talking notes only on a fraction of wines that were circulating around.

Flight 1 - The Dry wines (3 Notes)

  • 1999 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Spätlese Trocken Auction 91 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    From a double magnum brought by Justin C and Danielle K. Spicy and creamy on the nose with tropical fruit, papaya, cherry, cherry pit, marzipan, bubble gum. Elegant, rich and concentrated. Palate shows creamy peach, cherry, cherry pit and almonds. Lean yet burly. Quite bitter in a good way. Lots of peach pit and bitterness on the end and finish. Lean and potent. I like this better than the last time I had it. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 4.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1-1.5/2 = 15.6-16/20.

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  • 1995 Nikolaihof Riesling Vinothek 94 Points

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

    From magnum. brought by Joe. Dry savory nose - chicken broth, pear, fennel. Concentrated and very deep on the palate - tastes sweet: ripe red fruits, cherry, red apple, sweet & sour. Salty. Very extracted, but light. I really like this. Great power without heaviness. Nose - 4.5/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 5.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1.5/2 = 17/20.

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  • 2011 Lothar Kettern Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling GC 92 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    From magnum. Brought by Justin C and Danielle K. Nose: brown spices, peach. Extracted - salty, peach pit, ripe red apple. Sweet , creamy, pure, and elegant. Spritz on the palate with ripe apple, slate, minerals. Really burns well - good acid. A touch burly, but overall nice balance. Evidently, Justin is importing this - Bravo! Nose - 5/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1-1.5/2 = 16/20.

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Flight 2 - Kabinett - Spatlese/Auslese (10 Notes)

  • 1966 Schloss Reinhartshausen Erbacher Bruhl Riesling Spätlese 97 Points

    Germany, Rheingau

    Brought by Bob C. Medium gold. Petrol, apricots, honeysuckle, nectar, hazelnut. Just beautiful. Apricots and lots of acid - amazingly lively and juicy and light on its feet. Palate of flowers, nectar, a touch of honey - smoky. Just amazing balance. This wine was something special - so tasty and light and airy - a magical mouthfeel that one rarely sees. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 6/6, Finish - 5.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 2/2 = 18.5/20.

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  • 2010 Schloss Lieser Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett 96 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    My bottle. Just like the previous bottles. Very very bright, juicy and concentrated with searing acidity, mouthwatering fruit, sweetness and spice. Sweet/tart passion fruit, grapefruit, other tart citrus, honey, white grapes, and steely minerals. Huge sweetness, brightness and acid on the palate - with flavors similar to the nose. Electric - puts the salivary glands on overdrive. This isn't a light airy Kabinett - it is stuffed full to the gills - but the immense acid gives it great lift and excitement - so it works. This will probably be better with 5 or 25 years, but it is damn good right now. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 6/6, Finish - 5.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1.5/2 = 18/20.

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  • 1973 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Sang Riesling Auslese Nr. 33 94 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Nose of pear, flowers, honey, marzipan and spice. Creamy and sweet. Really zingy for an auslese with such age on it - full of acid, lime, nectarine, lemon. Elegant and crystalline. Maybe a touch tired, on the end palate and the finish but still great. Nose - 5.5/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 4.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1.5/2 = 17/20.

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  • 1996 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese 95 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    My bottle - pretty sure this was a library release and not an auction bottle. Medium-gold (the color of pee). Nose of creamy spice, botrytis, peach, orange, white peach and white flowers. Very soft and creamy on the palate - spicy, peach, apricot, orange. The acid feels crystallized and hidden, but comes out in the finish. Nose - 5.5/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 5.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1.5/2 = 17.5/20.

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  • 1999 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 81 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Nose with funk, sulfur, peach, sweet, bubble gum. Very sweet and slippery on the palate with peach and peach pit. The mouthfeel is not in focus - I don't care for the 99's much at all. Nose - 4/6, Palate - 3/6, Finish - 3/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 0.5/2 = 10.5/20.

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  • 1988 Joh. Jos. Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 94 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Medium-dark yellow. Lots of apple-pear, baking spice on the nose. Very light on its feet. Shiny and applely. Pure and transparent - elegant. Peach pit and salty extract on the long finish. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1.5/2 = 17/20.

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  • 1993 Schloss Schönborn Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spätlese

    Germany, Rheingau

    Had a quick taste - seemed musty and odd - out of focus with odd flavors - did not like it. But I didn't have a lot of time to sit with it, and did not get a full note or scores.

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  • 1983 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 98 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    The real deal. Creamy peach on the nose with brown spice, apricot and Marzipan. Crazy stupid acid on the palate - just perfect - sweet and flavorful, yet lively and full of verve. Brown spice, apricot. Perfect balance. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 6/6, Finish - 6/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 2/2 = 19/20.

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  • 1971 Vereinigte Hospitien Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 97 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Medium-dark gold. Very spicy nose: brown-red spices and cinnamon with ripe candied peach. Beautiful on the palate - spicy, a little dry - dried apricots and dry tangerine. Just elegant and pure. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 6/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 2/2 = 18.5/20.

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  • 1997 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Very sweet and soft - didn't get a full note.

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Flight 3 - The monsters (10 Notes)

  • 1971 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Poured a touch by a wandering John Kapon. Huge spice on the nose - creamy with great acid, tangerine, dry, nuts.I did not get a note on the palate or scores. But the nose was a 5.5-6/6 and the wine overall was in the 17-18/20 range. I wish I had more time with it.

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  • 1971 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 94 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Brought by Joe at our table. Again, crazy spice on the nose. Elegant and dry - lots of spice and spicy aspects, nutty, persimmon and mandarin. Ver dry with lots of lift and great acidity. Class and elegance to burn - airy and endless (not a comment on the finish - but the experience - a spatial analogy to the flavors). Nose - 5/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1.5/2 = 17/20.

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  • 1985 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 90 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Salil brought me over a taste. As expected, a nose of very ripe peach and lots of spice. Creamy and glossy. Soft like an 85 should be. Delicious, but missing a step or two. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 4/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1/2 = 15/20.

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  • 1983 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Auslese

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    From magnum, brought by Justin C and Danielle K. Bright and lemony, but that's all I got from the quick taste I had.

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  • 1990 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 100 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    AP #25. My bottle. Medium-dark orange brown. Sick nose of soaring spices, dried apricot and peach. Lift with huge power. Screaming sweetness and acid on the palate. Sweet and sour, peach, peach pit, lime, mineral and spice. Just fucking perfect. Rich and lovely - yet burning. A perfect bottle - I am thrilled. Nose - 6/6, Palate - 6/6, Finish - 6/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 2/2 = 20/20.

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  • 1989 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Beerenauslese 98 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    My bottle. More like a liquid battering ram than a wine - huge acid and extract. Just a baby after 23 years. Peach, grapefruit, slate all combine in a brutal nose that makes you wither. Massive in the palate - monolithic and unmoving. Great sweetness+acid+burn. Cloudy and murky profile on the palate due to the immense concentration. Creamy peach, grapefruit and spice. The finish burns and burns. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 6/6, Finish - 6/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 2/2 = 19/20.

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  • 1973 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Eiswein Beerenauslese

    Germany, Rheingau

    Brought by Craig G. Dark nose - burly, molasses and rich. On a sad note, which also provided for one of the most amusing stories of the night, my Dad chugged this down before I finished my note because he needed to clear a glass for my 01 JJ Chistoffel Urziger Wurzgarten Auslese * ... :(

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  • 1983 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    AP #9-87. Medium yellow - lighter in weight than I would expect. Some raved over this - It thought it was good but not amazing. Very spicy nose - dark with figs. Lots of bright acidity on the palate- young and peachy.

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  • 1971 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese 97 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Dark red-mahagony. Soft nose, with some mature oxidized notes. Red spices and peach. But on the palate … I could drink this forever: huge, sweet, honey, rich, spice, apricot, tangerine. Great acid comes out on the end-middle and the finish. Delicious and panoramic on a unimaginable scale. The acid still balances the crazy sweetness. Wow. This stuff rocked my world. Nose - 4.5/6, Palate - 6/6, Finish - 6/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 2/2 = 18.5/20.

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  • 1971 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Wachenheimer Gerümpel Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 98 Points

    Germany, Pfalz

    Brought by Craig G? What a way to end the night! Dark dark red-black. Molasses and spice on the nose. Huge and dark on the palate. Lots of fig and spice, again great acid. So much drive for a sweet wine- even more acid shows up on the finish. Really amazing. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 6/6, Finish - 6/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 2/2 = 19/20.

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Closing

OK. That was just nuts. So many wines I didn't get to try, or drank to quickly and didn't get to spend enough time with - the amount and quality of the wine was simply stupid. I had serious palate fatigue from all the acid, and my teeth hurt.

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