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Tasted Friday, March 1, 2013 by rm wines with 755 views
On Friday, a very generous friend pulled nearly a full case of '06-'09 CA Pinot Noir from Rhys and Ceritas, so that we could check in and see how the wines are developing. From Rhys, we sampled the Alpine Vineyard Pinot Noir and the Family Farm Pinot Noir, and from Ceritas we tasted the Escarpa Pinot Noir. Overall it was a very impressive showing. Both producers make wines of balance, precision, and structure. The Ceritas wines showed a bit more high-toned fruit, while the Rhys wines (especially Alpine) started off a bit tighter and denser, opening up with time to show a character that is much more Burgundy than California. Only time will tell for sure whether these wines can reach the same heights as great Burgundy, but, based on what I have seen so far, I am very optimistic.
Well, that was quite the set of wines! Thanks are due to my friend for his excellent hospitality and his willingness to share these great wines, even if we are perhaps drinking them before their peak. These producers are making some spectacular wines, and I look forward to sampling them further as time goes on.
2006 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard
USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
A bit disappointing compared to the other vintages of Alpine that we sampled. There was a ripe fruitiness on the nose that wasn't present on the other wines, and overall the aromas were more "typically" California. The palate was on the thin side and the wine hadn't successfully integrated the stemmy flavors from the whole cluster style. Of the wines in our tasting, it was the weakest of the correct wines, lacking the excellent mouthfeel and structure seen in the other vintages we tried.
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2007 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard
USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
A little tight aromatically at first, it eventually unveiled a whole spectrum of complex aromatics. It's hard to do justice to the many different layers seen here, and the palate is not lacking either. A balanced tart, brambly flavor with a hint of meaty/truffle savoriness towards the finish. The influence from the stems is there, but unlike the '06 it adds a fantastic touch to the wine. With the structure and depth seen here, this should continue to age for years and I can hardly imagine how good it will be at peak. WOTF
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2008 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard
USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
Of the 4 vintages of Alpine tasted, this was the most closed down. After a lot of air it moved in a better direction, showing a lot of the same flavors of tart brambly fruit and stems seen in the '07, along with a similar slightly savory quality. Unfortunately with the wine being mostly closed down, this wasn't as much fun to drink, although I think that it will be quite enjoyable in a few more years.
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2009 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard
USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
This was a quite ripe and bright initially, with a bitter and somewhat oaky palate that needs more time to integrate. After a lot of air, the flavors moderated a bit, and there was an interesting slightly peppery aroma. This wine definitely needs to rest.
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