Charity Auction Dinner

The Farm
Tasted Sunday, March 3, 2013 by gbm with 623 views

Introduction

We "won" this dinner at the annual charity auction. Well known local chef comes to your house with a wine importer friend and cooks dinner for you and up to eight guests. The Chef was fantastic. We hung out in the kitchen for passed appetizers and conversation while he prepared some of the meal and then sat down to a three course dinner which was fantastic.

Flight 1 - Canapes (2 Notes)

Lobster Salad served in an Endive Leaf
House Cured Duck Bacon on Watermelon Radish Slices
Foie Gras with Pickled Pears on Toast
Kabocha Squash Soup with Cardamom, Apples and Toasted Pumpkin Seeds
Citrus Cured Arctic Char with Fruit on Bruschetta

The champagne was fantastic, but gone before the food was served. The riesling was nice, but too sweet. It did pair well with the soup (of all things) as the apples in the soup brought out similar notes in the wine. General consensus was that the champagne wins this round even though two bottles of riesling went down in 15 minutes. I guess the riesling was very drinkable. Even the non-champagne folks (like me) were surprised by how muted the effervescence becomes over time.

Side note - duck bacon? A-MAZ-ING! So good I could have eaten the entire breast of it by myself. Foie gras with pickled pears was another hit and also paired nicely with the riesling.

  • 1995 Henriot Champagne Cuvée des Enchanteleurs Brut 95 Points

    France, Champagne

    I finally get it! I am not a big champagne fan, but vintage champagne - wow! This was fantastic. Beautiful golden color in the glass. Almost no visible bubbles. The nose was brioche, vanilla, and yeast, but the yeast was moderate - not overpowering. Faint soft bubbles on the palate. Smooth and sharp. All around terrific. I could have had the whole bottle by myself. (5+14+18+8)

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  • 2007 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Light yellow or straw colored. Nose of fruits and minimal petrol. Sweeter and less acidic than I was hoping for, but the fruits were very nice. Apple in the kabocha squash soup really brought out the apple flavors in the wine.

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Flight 2 - Appetizer (1 Note)

Grilled Atlantic Sturgeon with Marinated Beets, Endives and Fresh Grated Horseradish

The Volnay was a nice wine, but had no business being paired with this meaty, oily fish. The dish was fantastic - every plate was cleared - but the wine did nothing for it.

  • 1999 Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes 88 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Very nice burgundy. Translucent, deep reddish purple with a hint of orange along the edge. Nose was not very memorable. Palate was smooth. Moderate acidity. Medium finish. If I had more, I would drink it now. (4+11+16+7).

    Not sure if this really deserves an 88 or 89. It was good, but not a standout. I would buy it again. Good value at about $40.

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Flight 3 - Entrees (3 Notes)

The chef was kind enough to prepare two choices - Braised Colorado Lamb Shoulder and Pan-Seared Florida Grouper. Both were served over Roasted Cippolini Onions with Baby Carrots and Toasted Barley. Both were excellent and again, every plate was emptied. On to the wines:

The Croix du Beaucaillou was first. Dark and inky and everything you would expect from a young Bordeaux. The Andrew Will was next and completely overshadowed it. The color was the same, if slightly less dense-looking, but the nose was so expressive and the palate was so much smoother, there really was no contest. When you take pricing into account, I don't see why there is still any of this stuff left on the market.

The Grand Mayne was a nice way to close the course. It was smoother and more refined than the Beaucaillou and less exciting than the Andrew Will. Very enjoyable, older Bordeaux - also as expected.

This round went to the Andrew Will. The Grand Mayne was probably second as the Croix du Beaucaillou was just so dense.

  • 2005 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou Croix de Beaucaillou 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    This was a serious wine. Probably could have used more time in a decanter, but it definitely improved in the glass over 20-30 minutes. Deep, dark opaque purple. Inky. Nose was somewhat closed. Some funky, earthy scents which carried over to the palate but were kind of lost in the leather and oak. Still, very good wine and exactly what I was expecting. Actually, I little better than I was expecting. Long, smooth finish. (4+12+17+7)

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  • 2007 Andrew Will Sorella 95 Points

    USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills

    Amazing wine. Dark, inky purple with a very complex, floral nose. Possibly too much. Some chocolate notes. Palate was rich and smooth. Very well balanced. Dark red and black fruits. Long, smooth finish. Really great wine. (5+14+18+8)

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  • 1998 Château Grand Mayne 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Somehow, I can best remember this wine in comparison to the other two we drank at the same time ('07 Sorella and '05 Croix du Beaucaillou). It was lighter and smoother than the Beaucaillou, but far less floral and expressive than the Sorella.

    The color was still dark, opaque and with minimal bricking. Nose was a little muted, but showed some coffee and tobacco. Palate was smooth and medium bodied with plums and other black fruit. Smooth medium finish. (4+13+17+7)

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Flight 4 - Dessert (2 Notes)

Butterscotch Pot de Creme
Thyme Shortbread Cookies

Very rich and sweet. An unsweetened, but slightly salty creme fraiche cut some of the sweetness of the butterscotch. I loved it, but I love dessert. Others found it too rich or too sweet. The salt in the creme fraiche was fantastic.

As for the wines, the Sauternes was really nothing special. I feel that way about most Sauternes and have yet to taste one of which I need to have more. The port, on the other hand, was fantastic! All of the nuttiness and fruits you would expect in a nice 20 year tawny, but very little of the alcohol. It was smooth and drinkable and probably wine of the night for me.

  • 2007 Château Rieussec Château de Cosse 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Light yellow color. Honey and apricot nose. Palate was similar and not very complex. Relatively simple. Nice, but nothing special. (3+13+16+5)

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  • 1997 Quinta do Noval Porto Colheita 94 Points

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    Fantastic. Beautiful pale nut brown. Nose was nuts, toffee, figs. Palate was smooth with hazelnut and some creme brulee. Smooth finish without the alcohol I was expecting at the end. This will be gone in days. Need to find more. (4+14+18+8)

    (I realize that I'm way above other scorers - maybe I don't drink enough VP, but in comparison to 20 year tawnys, I found this to be outstanding).

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Closing

All in all, it was a great night. All agreed we should do it again.

As for the wines, I would have more champagne next time and dump the Sauternes. WOTN is a toss up between the Port and the Henriot, but I had very little of the Henriot so I have a hard time giving it the victory. The Andrew Will was outstanding, and I will drink more of it and seek it out in the stores, but it was very dense and needs a strong pairing. Given a glass of it beside the port and champagne, it would clearly be the third wine.

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