2012 En Primeur - Kelly and Kevin’s excellent adventure
Bordeaux, France
Tasted Thursday, April 4, 2013 - Tuesday, April 9, 2013 by dcwino with 2,179 views
Introduction
Based on only two days of participating in En Primeur, I feel that the 12 is a slightly better vintage than the 11 in the right bank and equal or slight less in the left. It is another vintage of Merlot, also good Cabernet Franc. Some of the lower end wines seem to show dry tannins perhaps due to too much extraction, too much oak not having the terroir to deal with the extremely hot and dry summer that caused the vines to stress. You can almost taste the weather in this vintage as the fruits are quite ripe, although not as ripe as the 03s, yet some of the wines have not achieved the physiological ripeness which resulting in ripe plumy green note without freshness.
A few of the classified growths from northern Medoc tasted were simply uninspiring. I thought Margaux commune has done well, especially Chateau Palmer and Chateau Margaux. This was the vintage with the highest percent of Merlot at Haut Brion, resulting in elegant and charming wine that slightly lacks concentration and vibrancy. La Mission Haut Brion as usual was fresher showing more red fruits and more masculine although it too lacks a bit of concentration and complexity compare to the 09 and the 10. I only got to taste a couple dozens of second tier Pomerols. Contrary to Pomerol being exceptional in this vintage, I thought they were showing more dry tannins and I much preferred St Emilions which were fresher and showing better integrated tannins. I thought the dry whites were poor except at the top level like HB, LMBH and Pavillon Blanc, lacking acidity, concentration and ripeness. I didn’t notice Botrytis in Sauternes, really simple fruity nose without much complexity.
Realistically, I don’t see much activity for the 2012 EP. IMO, the FG prices have to be down to around $300 and I don’t see that happening. Meanwhile high prices of the top 40 wines are giving the bad image of the entire region and causing the consumers to move away from Bordeaux. Once they do, they seem not to come back, being happy with the new discoveries. Meanwhile, the other 90% of Bordeaux are suffering, big inventory without much new prospects.
Flight 1 - Tasting Balthus and Reignac at Chateau Reignac’s tasting room (11 Notes)
We had a nice lunch at a local bistro hosted by Marion with the 04 Reignac and Balthus, both were still youthful and drinking nicely although the acidity was a bit disjointed on Reignac. After a quick siesta, we walked to the tasting room which was a completely update pigeon tower. This is where the blending tasting takes place and Kelly and I got to pretend like we were the master blenders. Then we were served the property's three red wines but they were easy to identify.
Tasting two samples of Balthus from two different types of soil was interesting. They were very different. We then tasted four samples of Chateau Reignac with different barrel makers and soil types.
Flight 2 - Dinner at Reignac (4 Notes)
Marion expertly prepared exceptional scallop tartar, perfectly roasted beef and delicious not so sweet tarte tatin. Three 2009 reds were served blind then another bottle also blind.
Flight 3 - A quick drink at Chai Pascal (2 Notes)
Every year between the first day tasting of CRD and a dinner hosted by CRD, three Italian amigos, Christian, Roberto and Oratzio, Kelly and I go to St Emillion to check if Alan Vauthier is drinking beer with his friends at Chai Pascal. We were joined by Otto Geiser, a great german chef, wine writer and one of the leaders of the European slow food movement.
It is also a routine that Orazio and Roberto visit the wine shop to buy wines drink at the dinner. Unfortunately the selection was limited and the prices were high. Orazio managed to pick the 07 Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin.
Flight 4 - Dinner hosted by CRD at Grand Barrail (2 Notes)
The dinner hosted by CRD was held at Hotel Grand Barrail. It is a beautiful space and the dishes were wonderful. I checked out the wine list and it was pretty uninspiring and expensive.
Flight 5 - Dinner at the Restaurant of Troplong Mondot with Jeff Leve (2 Notes)
We were originally scheduled to be at Chateau Le Gay for dinner but for the obvious reason it was cancelled so we met up with Jeff at the restaurant of Troplong Mondot. The restaurant is situated in the property. It is a lovely restaurant, very spacious with very comfortable big chairs and tables. The dishes were superb and it is an exceptional value at 50 euros for a three course meal. Unfortunately the wine selection is very limited and the only reds offered are from the property which were priced very well.
Flight 6 - A few drinks at L’Envers du Décor (2 Notes)
We tried to get a table for dinner but we were informed that there was a private dinner. Once we arrived, we realized that the dinner was for the remembrance of Madame Pere-Verge. There were a number of familiar faces. I really love this restaurant and always try to eat here once. The wine list has been always exceptional but the prices seem higher than before.
Flight 7 - Circle de Rive Droit tasting at Chateau Barde Haut (32 Notes)
Every year, the first EP tasting for us the Circle de Rive Droit tasting at Chateau Barde Haut, a beautiful property at the heart of St. Emilion. Perhaps these aren’t the most sought-after wines but there are some excellent values. Also CRD facilitates the best tasting environment with options to taste blind or none. I was lazy so opened the excel file and create a column to put my tns.
Flight 8 - Chateau Le Gay (5 Notes)
Madame Pere Verge had always hosted a great tasting followed by a lunch for Grand Jury Europeen on Sunday. Kelly and I were the first ones to arrive at the property and when I got out of the car, the air seems very heavy and I felt very sad. Usually the tall grand lady would come out to greet us. When we entered the Chateau, the mood didn’t change. I didn’t notice any family members.
Flight 9 - La Fleur de Bouard for Hubert de Bouard Portfolio (16 Notes)
I was pretty impressed with the wines. Most of them showed nice concentration without losing the freshness. I though Chateau Angelus was showing great.
Flight 10 - Chateau Faugeres (5 Notes)
Our next visit was at Chateau Faugeres. Mr. Silvio Denz, the CEO of Lalique and the owner of Chateau Faugeres, Peby Faugeres and Cap-de-Faugeres greeted us. He told us with excitement that he and Peter Sisseck are now partnering to make the wine at Château Rocheyron. He seems to be a passionate wino who truly believes in his properties. I found the wines to be good and friendly in the past. As expected, the wines were very modern and big. The 12 Peby Faugeres was the biggest and most concentrated wine that I have tasted during the 12 EP. Although I didn’t get to visit Jean Luc Thunevin, the wine reminded me the 10 Valandraud, but a bit less polished and riper. I would think that for some, the wines are a bit too homogeneous and modern for others simply hedonistic. If you are looking for a big cult cab like experience at a decent price, Peby Faugeres might be a good wine to try. I also think that Chateau Faugeres and Cap-de-Faugeres represent very good value as there are user friendly with ample fruits and approachable young with round palate and nicely integrated tannins.
Flight 11 - Derenoncourtconsulted wines at Chateau La Gaffeliere (16 Notes)
I always enjoy visit to Stephane as the wines display unique characteristics of terroir with good fresh. This has been the last visit of the first day of participating in EP every year which I have always looked forward to. Unfortunately Stephane wasn’t showing the 12 Beausejour Duffau.
Flight 12 - Univerre (9 Notes)
By now, we have a tradition of dining at Au bonheur du palais. Unforutnately the restaurant closes on Sunday. Thanks to Alex R who posted a new wine restaurant in Bordeaux, I wanted to try univerre. Small world, the restaurant that Laurent V picked was univerre as he was a good friend to the chef/owner of the restaurant. Once we walked in, Kelly W also recognized the chef as he met him only a couple weeks prior at NYC La Paulee. Four of us sat down and browse through the impressive wine list. It is a serious wine list with some of the great names of Burgundy.
Flight 13 - Chateau La Mission Haut Brion (9 Notes)
As usual, our first visit of the left bank strated at Chateau Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion. Our session was held once again at the second floor private tasting room at La Mission. At least at HB and LMHB, the 12 was the vintage of Merlot. Mr. Delma informed us that Chateau Haut Brion had 65.5% Merlot, which is the highest % of Merlo in HB GV.
Flight 14 - Chateau Pape Clement (6 Notes)
Out next visit was at Pape Clement. Someone told me that the wines have toned down but I didn’t notice. All the wines seem typical, sweet ripe fruits, round and opulent palate and excellent concentration but a bit monolithic.
Flight 15 - Ulysse Cazabonne (38 Notes)
After the lunch, Francois arranged a tasting at Ulysse Cazabonne, a Bordeaux nogotiant. Kelly and I were lucked out as Dianne, beautiful young French lady, offered to drive us to Margaux. She may be one of the most intelligent and passionate wine professionals and it doesn’t hurt that she is also beautiful. Most of the wines from Margaux were represented and I thought they were good. I thought the classified growth Northern Medoc wines were not bad but nothing remarkable. I seem to rate all of them in 90-92 point range. Most of the wines from Margaux were represented and I thought they were good. I thought the classified growth Northern Medoc wines were not bad but nothing remarkable. I seem to rate all of them in 90-92 point range. In terms of the whites, I thought some were ripe and lacking definition. Looks like I tasted alot of wines in a relatively short time.
Flight 16 - EP crashers! Chateau Palmer (2 Notes)
After our appointment at Ulysse Cazabonne, we still had some time but no scheduled appointments. I met Thomas Duroux at the Palmer dinner that Panos organized a few years back. Kelly also knew someone at the property so Dianne, Kelly and I decided to crash EP at Chateau Palmer. We first got to the Chai bypassing the reception but director Bernard de Laage kindly advised to head back to the reception. In our last session of the 09 CRD tasting, there were four visitors who were invited to observe our briefing. Lucky us, one of them happened to be the receptionist at Palmer. She welcomed us and kindly let us taste with Thomas. Although there were a bunch of folks waiting, we got the VIP treatment. Although it has been a couple years, Mr. Duroux recognized me and lead a private session for three of us. I assume being with a beautiful young French lady didn’t hurt. I have never tasted Chateau Palmer in EP but this must have been god’s will as both Alter Ego and GV were showing great.
Flight 17 - We even crashed Chateau Margaux (3 Notes)
Now that we successfully crashed the Chateau Palmer EP, we made a unanimous decision to crash Chateau Margaux. When we entered the chai, Mr. Pontarlier and Madame Mentzelopoulos were greeting the folks. It is a Grand Jury European’s tradition to have a tasting session with Mr. Pontarlier and the Madame but not this year. Dianne introduced ourselves as Grand Jury Europeen in her mother tongue and Kelly and I smiled in the back ground (dumb and dumber moment). Mr. Pontarlier looked us curiously as he knew that we were not coming this year. Nevertheless, our charms worked beautifully once again and we joined a bunch of Englishmen. Kelly and I agreed that two Americans, especially me looking almost Chinese, with a beautiful young French woman can certainly open a lot of doors.
Flight 18 - Nightcap at Univerre (2 Notes)
Although we were stuffed, we weren’t quite done yet so Dianne, Kelly and I headed back to Univerre. It was a beautiful way to end our stays in Bordeaux.
Closing
Kelly and I traveled to Paris the next morning. We originally planned to go drink a bottle of Coche CC at a restaurant but we were a bit too tired. Kelly is a hardcore and wanted to go to willi's wine bar but I was a bit too tired. After taking a nice nap, I joined Kelly and his friends for a nice dinner at bistro paul bert. It was once again wonderful, simple great ingredients that were perfectly executed. We had one last drink/Champagne in Paris at a random restaurant and headed back to our hotel. Another memorable trip sharing wonderful wines with great friends!
2012 Château de Reignac Balthus 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur
(4/4/2013)
Clay soil sample– lighter and fresher, chalky, floral, crushed red and blue berries. Good concentration.
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2012 Château de Reignac Balthus 91 Points
France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur
(4/4/2013)
Gravel soil barrel sample– Coffee, a hint of green, a bit bitter, silky, round but noticeable tannins.
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2012 Reignac 88 Points
France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur
(4/4/2013)
Sample 1 – Bluberry jam, baked fruits, black pepper, round mouthfeel, a hint of soy, round tannins, a bit too ripe. 88
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2012 Reignac 90 Points
France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur
(4/4/2013)
Sample 2 – Coffee, cool fruit impression, good precision, lead pencil. Silky and round palate.
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2012 Reignac 91 Points
France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur
(4/4/2013)
Sample 3 – Mint, cassis, subtle, silky, round and warm palate, quite enjoyable
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2012 Reignac 89 Points
France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur
(4/4/2013)
Sample 4 – Big, black fruits, blackberry liquor, a hint of green, dry tannins.
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2012 Reignac 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur
(4/4/2013)
Cabernet Franc barrel sample - Black pepper, blackberry liquor, lavender. Excellent concentration, dense, warm and round. Opulent fruit masks the tannins which is only noticeable as the end note.
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2009 Château de Reignac 86 Points
France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur
(4/4/2013)
Soft red fruits, cherry, strawberry, light and easy quaffer. Very well made restaurant wine.
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2009 Reignac 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur
(4/4/2013)
Black fruits, crushed blackberries, chocolate, cool fruit impression, round silky palate and sweet tannins.
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2009 Château de Reignac Balthus 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur
(4/4/2013)
Vanilla, coffee, opulent black fruits, bright acidity, excellent concentration, silky palate, nicely integrated tannins.
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2012 Château la Bienfaisance Sanctus 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
(4/7/2013)
Expressive nose displaying bright blue fruits, excellent concentration, silky, nicely integrated tannins, big scale wine showing wonderfully
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