Visits to Two Alsatian Classics-Trimbach and Hugel

Ribeauvillé and Riquewihr
Tasted Friday, April 19, 2013 - Sunday, April 21, 2013 by drwine2001 with 1,377 views

Flight 1 - Trimbach (11 Notes)

I had the same impression as when I visited last year. That is, the quality and consistency of the wines from bottom to top are extremely impressive.

Flight 2 - Hugel (13 Notes)

This was quite an extraordinary tasting considering that we wandered into the tasting room without an appointment on Sunday morning. Here, there was more variability, but still a very classic style and dynamic array of extremely well made wines. The dessert wines were absolutely brilliant.

  • 2011 Hugel Riesling "Hugel"

    France, Alsace

    (4/21/2013)

    Classic ripe stone fruit and a bit of flowers. Light, mineral, zippy and refreshing. Just what you want at this level.

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  • 2008 Hugel Riesling Tradition

    France, Alsace

    (4/21/2013)

    Lower pitched fruit and black tea on the nose. Clearly more body than the basic cuvée. High acidity, good intensity. Backward and serious.

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  • 2007 Hugel Riesling Jubilee

    France, Alsace

    (4/21/2013)

    This had been open for 3 days. High toned nose with petrol. Lemony citrus fruit. Lively, sharply defined, just a bit of residual sugar. Actually lighter feel than the '08 Jubilee. Dusty, stony finish. I love this racy style.

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  • 2010 Hugel Pinot Gris Tradition

    France, Alsace

    (4/21/2013)

    Low toned orange oil. Light to medium weight (definitely not oily as this varietal can be), minimal sucrosity. Round but great acidity with a touch of bitterness at the end. Very good at this level.

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  • 2008 Hugel Pinot Gris Jubilee

    France, Alsace

    (4/21/2013)

    Apparently this was partially vinified on the lees and partly in wood to ameliorate the high acidity of the vintage. Ripe and sweet smelling but this does not prepare you for the impression in the mouth. Medium weight, just off dry, noticeably high acidity. Harsh and poorly integrated with a shrill finish.

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  • 2009 Hugel Gewurztraminer Tradition

    France, Alsace

    (4/21/2013)

    Medium color. Wonderful lychee aromatics, but disappointing thereafter. Medium weight, low acidity and dilute. No better than average generic quality.

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  • 2008 Hugel Gewurztraminer Jubilee

    France, Alsace

    (4/21/2013)

    Interesting low toned apricot. No perfuminess. Richer, glossy feel, off dry, very well balanced with strong back end acidity. A major step up.

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  • 2009 Hugel Pinot Noir Les Neveux Jubilee

    France, Alsace

    (4/21/2013)

    Medium ruby. Black cherry and some oak char. Medium weight. Not that complex but very Pinot. Serious yet supple with a long finish and fine tannins. Could still use a few years. Impressive and one of the best Alsatian Pinot Noirs I've ever tried. Bravo!

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  • 1998 Hugel Pinot Gris Hommage a Jean Hugel

    France, Alsace

    (4/21/2013)

    Deep yellow. Honeyed peach with some mushroom. Plush and long with a good component of soil. Completely mature and quite delicious.

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  • 1998 Hugel Tokay Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive

    France, Alsace

    (4/21/2013)

    Fascinating contrast with the Hommage of the same year. Same dark yellow color but more citrus and less botrytis. Sweeter and simpler but strong balancing acidity. This will last, but will it gain complexity? At a totally different state of (im)maturity than the Hommage.

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  • 2009 Hugel Riesling Vendange Tardive

    France, Alsace

    (4/21/2013)

    All dried peach on the nose. Youthful, fresh, off dry, little or no botrytis. This is absolutely delicate for a VT wine and has exquisite balance. One to buy and sock away for a long time.

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  • 1998 Hugel Riesling Sélection de Grains Nobles

    France, Alsace

    (4/21/2013)

    Medium yellow. Wild aromas that are high toned and perfumed with mango and citrus. Fabulous mouth coverage. Not heavy at all and not terribly sweet Incredible length and balance. Every element of this just bowled me over.

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  • 1997 Hugel Gewurztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles "S"

    France, Alsace

    (4/21/2013)

    Intense white grapefruit and lychee scents. Very sweet and unctuous, yet fantastic feel and flavors of crystallized ginger in addition to the fruit. Somehow it avoids being over the top, and the finish is virtually endless. Brilliant winemaking to harness this quixotic varietal into something really profound and special.

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Closing

Bravo to both Trimbach and Hugel, stalwarts of the region who remain capable of putting great wine in the bottle despite producing some larger, more commercial cuvees.

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