NYC
Tasted Thursday, April 25, 2013 by salil with 696 views
A compelling fragrance combining savoury waxy and oily elements, stone fruits, and sweeter, rock candy-like elements. It's very fresh and vibrant with ripe fruit lifted by brighter acidity than I normally expect in white Rhones, but showing a faint glyceral sweetness on the back end. Very nice.
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Very fresh, fragrant and appealing to drink with youthful Syrah fruit accented by peppery and floral elements. It's medium weight and very elegant on the palate with bright acidity beneath the fruit, but doesn't show quite the depth and savouriness that other young Gonons have on release - this seems a bit leaner than the '10, though it's still very enjoyable.
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A lovely peppery, smoky and floral fragrance right away that keeps building and adding more depth and nuance with air. The classic Gonon savouriness and freshness of fruit are all there, but there's a textural polish and finesse that makes this really appealing to drink. Fantastic.
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A little reticent on the nose, not showing the aromatic depth or intensity I normally expect from Gonon. It's very enjoyable to drink with bright, fresh red and dark fruit tinged with a vivid peppery seasoning, but alongside the '10 St. Joseph, seems rather one note in contrast.
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This comes across a little closed aromatically, not showing the same depth or aromatic intensity I recall on release. It's much more generous on the palate, showing plenty of ripe fruit and that Gonon savouriness and pepperiness, but does give the impression that it's holding a lot in reserve. I'll let my bottles sleep.
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Every bit as thrilling and fragrant as it was on release. Incredibly fragrant with black pepper, fresh Syrah fruit and vivid saline and meaty elements all coming together seamlessly, intense yet so light, and impeccably balanced with a spine of fine grained tannins and bright acidity suggesting this has plenty of time ahead.
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Oh, wow! That classic Gonon scent of meaty/peppery/floral elements around pure Syrah fruit, but it's so much more intense here than in the regular St. Joseph with amazing depth to the aromatics, and more layers unfurling with air. It comes across on the palate with more power and concentration than the regular St. Joseph too, but at the same time manages to also convey a remarkable lightness and purity in each sip, and a finish that just keeps resonating. Amazing wine.
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This comes across riper, more intense and powerful than the '07 VV, but it's also remarkably elegant and polished at the same time, showing an amazing textural finesse that makes it very easy to drink, despite how ripe and primary the fruit here is. Air brings out more peppery and meaty flavours, and it becomes more compelling the longer it sits in the glass. Fantastic, though as with the '07, I can barely begin to imagine what it'll turn into with some time in the cellar.
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A real treat to have another chance to drink this, after my lone bottle was corked. This, thankfully, wasn't, and it's awesome from the first sip with layers of vividly meaty, smoky, savoury brothy and saline elements around the pepper-tinged red and dark fruit at the core. It comes across fully mature with the tannin completely integrated and the whole array of flavours coming together harmoniously on the palate in an incredibly elegant, seamless package. Wow!
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Starts out a little reticent aromatically; smoky, savoury and still brightly fruited, though without the aromatic complexity and depth of the '89 poured alongside. After sitting in the glass for a while though, it suddenly transforms as if someone turned a switch on, with layers of smoked meat, leather, tobacco, higher toned floral and spicy notes and ripe fruit emerging aromatically. There's a sense of both power and restraint on the palate, tremendous depth and complexity, and amazing length with the flavours just lingering long after each sip. Absolutely spectacular.
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2010 Emmanuel Houillon (Maison Pierre Overnoy) Chardonnay Arbois Pupillin 92 Points
France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
This is definitely one of those wines to fit in JLL's "soil to glass transfer" category. There's a core of fresh pear and citrus fruit conveyed with remarkable purity and freshness, and beneath is a base of pure stone and earth. Very elegant, delicate and long.
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