Not your average Wednesday neighborhood meal

Prospect, Brooklyn
Tasted Wednesday, June 12, 2013 by cooberp with 386 views

Introduction

I thought I was meeting people for a nice bite at the friendly local restaurant down the block. It turns out that it's run by the former chefs of a very serious place in Midtown, who just felt like opening somewhere more casual. When asked to put together a 3-star caliber meal, they rose to the occasion and then some. Add in an earthshattering bottle of wine, and this became a night to remember.

Flight 1 - Appetizer (1 Note)

Raclette Tart
Black caviar, summer truffles, housemade creme fraiche

Flight 2 - Second course (2 Notes)

Guinea Hen
Herbed Spaetzle, foraged mushrooms, natural jus

  • 1978 Francesco Rinaldi e Figli Barolo Flawed

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Smells like a Tootsie Roll. Clearly heat damaged beyond recognition.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

  • 1996 Oddero Barolo 90 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Textbook masculine Nebbiolo. Red cherry, bitter chocolate (probably from the oak), metallic character. Super-structured, high acidity and way too much tannin for now.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

Flight 3 - Third course (1 Note)

Braised Lamb Shoulder
"Brasserie style" with Brooklyn Grange early summer roots and vegetables

  • 1998 Château Cheval Blanc 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Wow. A shapeshifting fruit profile that somehow simultaneously shows bright redcurrant and deep-bass blackberry. A ton of vanilla and coconut aromas from what I imagine are extremely high-quality, low-char barrels, but the wine is so concentrated and the oak so well-integrated that they come across as merely complementary. There's already complexity poking out in the form of cinnamon/brown sugar spice, and a hint of celery as you finish sniffing. All the scents are incredibly well-delineated and surprisingly easy to distinguish from each other. In the mouth, this is as silky, velvety, suave a texture as I've ever encountered--a love-motel pink satin cushion of a wine. And just when you think it might be too plush for its own good, a jolt of acidity at the finish lifts it up.

    This wine is surely a mere fraction of what it will become, but I'm too struck by how well it's drinking now to get hung up on its potential. I had no idea any young wine, not to mention a structured Bordeaux, could deliver this much. A before-and-after experience that leaves no doubt that CB is my favorite producer, which does not bode well for my finances. A very generous contribution from a new friend.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

Flight 4 - Dessert (1 Note)

Passionfruit Souffle
Strawberry creme anglaise, pirouettes

×
×