CEDRIC BOUCHARD, DANCER, PYCM, D’AUVENAY, FOREY, DUJAC, MEO-CAMUZET, HEYMANN-LOWENSTEIN.

Restaurant Calla’s * The Hague, The Netherlands.
Tasted Sunday, July 14, 2013 by Barry Rothof with 632 views

Introduction

Owner and chef Marcel van der Kleijn of Restaurant Calla’s in The Hague believes in modern cooking founded on traditional principles, in which the accent is on richness of taste stripped of all frills and furbelows. We had a 9 course lunch and were seated at the chef’s table, the wine service by maître and sommelier Menno Verhaar was excellent! All wines blended beautifully with the light and pure food, an exceptional culinary experience!

Flight 1 (1 Note)

First course, Tofu vinaigrette of citrus and soya, yuzusalt, herbs and flowers from the garden.

Flight 2 (1 Note)

Second course, Codfish (North Sea) slowly cooked, cucumber, yoghurt, parsley, herbs ‘Laantje Voorham’

  • 2008 Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Very exciting and ripe nose of lemon, grapefruit. On the palate the wine is very fresh and pure with more of the Chassagne fullness and depth on a long complex finish. A relatively solid white Burgundy and a beautiful expression of terroir! This is terrific!

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Flight 3 (1 Note)

Third course, Soup of pomodori chilled, Cavaillonmelon, Oosterscheldelobster, olive oil, flowers.

  • 2011 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

    This Chassagne 1e Cru En Remilly forms the link between the St-Aubin premier cru of the same name and Chevalier-Montrachet. Refined nose of pear, lemon and chalky soil tones. On the palate very pure and primary with laser-like focus, bright acids and stunning minerality on the very, long stony finish. A brilliant wine!

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Flight 4 (1 Note)

Fourth course, Seabass (North Sea) - sautéed, cream of artichoke, sauce of crustacians and verjus ‘8 Brix’

  • 2001 Domaine d'Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy) Meursault Les Narvaux 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    Slightly reduced fill and signs of leakage! On the nose exotic and rich with expressions of yellow fruit and popcorn. On the palate plump mineral-inflected flavors. Grand Cru in scale and blowing away the first two white wines, is this a Meursault village? Displaying the mark of its maker more than its terroir. Big and more forward as expected and clearly ready now! Very impressive!

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Flight 5 (1 Note)

On to the fifth course, Sweetbreads of veal braised, cauliflowerstructures, gravy.

  • 2006 Forey Père et Fils Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Gaudichots 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    When most of the Les Gaudichots vineyard was incorporated into La Tache in 1936 this parcel was left over! On the nose big, rich and powerful dark fruit and soil tones. On the palate concentrated, earthy and tight with chewy tannins on the firm and long finish. This Les Gaudichots requires 10 to 20 years of bottle age to shed the considerable tannins. Interesting old school style Burgundy?

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Flight 6 (1 Note)

Sixth course, Lamb (Texel) roasted, summer vegetables, potatomousseline, eggplant, sauce of lamb with Hysop.

  • 2009 Domaine Dujac Charmes-Chambertin 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

    This Charmes-Chambertin is comprising several small parcels in Mazoyeres and one larger in the upper part of Charmes. A pure and beautiful bouquet of black cherries, dark red fruit and espresso. On the palate round and pure, with ripe tannins, outstanding focus and balance with superb length on the soil-driven finish. A very Charmesing Charmes from Dujac!

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Flight 7 (1 Note)

The seventh course was, Tenderloin (Black Angus, USA) poached, couscous, chanterelles, sauce of red wine.

  • 2002 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

    On the nose refined and pure with black cherries, plums, cacao and soil tones. On the palate a wine of great finesse, with stunning texture and balance, easy to approach, with superb length. Delicious and a big win for Clos Vougeot and Meo-Camuzet!

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Flight 8 (1 Note)

Course eight, Cheeses Reblochon de Savoie, Abondance, Petit Lafort & Course nine dessert, Red fruit Jelly of elderflower,soft burned meringue, icecream of rhubarb.

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