Visit to Jean-Marc Brocard in Chablis

It may be worth pointing out that today, this company has abandoned their "no oak" policy, and actually uses some oak (primarily large foudres) for all grand cru wines, and for four out of nine premier crus.

This is the regular range of wines from Brocard, somw of which are biodynamical.

• 2011 Jean-Marc Brocard Petit Chablis Domaine Sainte Claire 85 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Petit Chablis

  Slightly flowery, mineral, apple.

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• 2011 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  Slightly flowery, some ripe fruit, mineral, high acidity. Rather fruity style. Young but approachable, 87(+) p

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• 2011 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Mineral, smoke, apple (mostly green apple), slightly flowery, rather fruity on the palate. Rather young, but approachable.

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• 2011 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Nose with mineral, yellow apple. Palate with mineral, citrus, high acidity, mineral aftertaste. Rather young, somewhat accessible, 89(+) p

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• 2010 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Nose with mineral, yellow apple, a hint of spice. Palate with mineral, good concentration, yellow and green apple, high acidity, very mineral aftertaste. Young, 91(+) p

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Julien Brocard is the son of Jean-Marc Brocard. This range is smaller and all wines are biodynamical.

• 2010 Domaine de la Boissonneuse Chablis 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  Smoky nose with mineral and some citrus. Palate with stony mineral, green and yellow apple, high acidity, aftertaste with mineral. Good for a village-level Chablis! Young, 88(+) p

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• 2011 Maison Julien Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaudevey 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Nose with mineral, slightly smoky, yellow fruit including yellow apple. Palate with mineral, apple, smoky notes, slightly fruity. Rather young, 89(+) p

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My impression based only on these two wines is that the Julien Brocard wines are slightly better than the regular Jean-Marc Brocard wines. Their style appears to be slightly more classical, with more obvious smoky notes.