(Mostly) Rieslings at Lan Sheng

Lan Sheng, NYC
Tasted Saturday, July 20, 2013 by salil with 595 views

Flight 1 (12 Notes)

  • NV Valdespino Manzanilla Deliciosa en Rama 91 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda

    Not a whole lot to add to Ross' notes. This is all about refreshment, incredibly elegant and delicate with pure fruit, salinity and gentle nutty accents on a lightweight frame. Lovely.

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  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Fino 35 "Macharnudo Alto" 93 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry

    Consistent with previous experiences. Just a great Fino, so complex, savoury, incredibly pure and fresh with a bright acid spine beneath the bright fruit, smokiness and nuttiness.

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  • NV Ulysse Collin Champagne Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut (2009) Les Maillons 93 Points

    France, Champagne

    Much more forward and friendly than the '08, which I recall being rather austere and grumpy at this stage. There's a core of exuberant red fruited flavours here framed by vivid mineral and yeasty notes, and the effervescence and sharp acid spine here keep it very refreshing. Lovely.

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  • 2008 Weingut von Othegraven Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Kabinett 92 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    As good as ever. Very classic Saar aroma; fresh citrus fruits accented with leafy, herbal and mineral accents, and such purity and lightness on the palate with razor sharp acidity cutting through everything. The balance here is superb and it's incredibly refreshing. Fantastic, classic Kabinett.

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  • 2009 Meulenhof Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 92 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Still drinking superbly. This hasn't budged a bit since release; there's a core of fresh apple and peachy fruit tinged with floral notes, and beneath it there's a base of pure slate and stone. Bright acids keep the whole package very light and refreshing, and a glass of this disappears all too easily.

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  • 2002 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #10 96 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Once again, this is a fireworks display. So youthful and primary, just showing the barest hints of creamy/smoky developing notes around its core of fresh fruit, minerality and florality, but the depth, sense of balance and sheer finesse here are hard to put into words. This is just a spectacular young Auslese that seems to have years ahead of it, but it's absolutely thrilling to drink now. Thanks Ross.

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  • 2010 Weingut Robert Weil Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken 89 Points

    Germany, Rheingau

    Kabinett?! This has the weight and power of a ripe Spätlese. Quite rich and intense on the palate with ripe citrus and stone fruit over a mineral base with some sulfury and floral notes on the nose, but the balance is excellent with the richness matched by the bright '10 acidity, and impressive length.

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  • 2010 Alfred Merkelbach Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 92 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    I'm still amazed at how Merkelbach pulled off such an elegant, delicate wine in a vintage where so many Rieslings are all about power and size. The flavours here are very classic Mosel; apple and citrus fruits, slate, florality and a faint spiciness, all conveyed on an incredibly light frame with bright acidity keeping it very refreshing and focused.

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  • 2009 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Riesling Großes Gewächs

    Germany, Pfalz

    Not a great showing, coming across rather clumsy, awkward and heavy handed. Certainly nothing representative of what I usually expect from Rebholz.

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  • 1992 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese 92 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Very pretty; fresh lime, citrus and green apple fruit framed by a patina of more mature smoky and creamy elements, and a gentle mineral undercurrent beneath. There's really bright acidity here that keeps it very refreshing and precise, and the balance here is fantastic. Lovely.

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  • 1975 Van Volxem Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett 91 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    This is still in great shape. A core of pear, apple and lemon candy flavours tinged with mineral and herbal notes, still showing plenty of freshness and vibrancy with a bright acid spine beneath and wonderful balance. A really lovely, elegant Kabinett to sit down with.

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  • 1976 Freiherr von Zwierlein-Schloss Kosakenberg Winkeler Jesuitengarten Riesling Auslese 91 Points

    Germany, Rheingau

    This seems to be on the downslope but it's still a compelling wine to sit down with and follow for some time. There's a core of ripe peach, apricot and citrus fruit here framed by more savoury smoky and earthy elements, though the botrytis of the vintage is very prominent here - it's quite dark in colour with a sweet honeyed aroma, and there's still plenty of sweetness though not a whole lot of acidity matching it. It does give the impression of being a bit past its peak, but it's still very enjoyable (and after drinking this, I'm really curious how Spreitzer's wines from this site will age.)

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