Opening Some Older Red Wine Treasures at Chateau Abee, Columbia, SC 7/20/2013

Linda Abee declared that her husband; Rodney was storing considerably too much wine in their spare room/office. Their faithful friends, always trying to help, volunteered to open, decant, and taste his long forgotten and often totally hidden bottles from the 90's and early 2000's. Linda produced her usual array of tasty, somewhat gourmet, somewhat Southern Comfort, table of food to die for. We ended up opening, or trying to open 21 bottles. All the white wines became sewage. We decanted several bottles with a big question mark for the next day. Rodney has the sense to start with a 2007 Handley Pinot, which we expected to show nicely, and start off our evening correctly. The wine notes speak for themselves. Present were Rodney and Linda Abee, Tom Porcari. Leslie Brown, the incomparable Noelle Norton, and myself. The first shift left and drove home before 10 PM. The late shift, did not go near a vehicle with a motor until the next day.

• 2007 Handley Pinot Noir Anderson Valley 89 Points

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  A very solid Anderson Valley type Pinot that rewarded us for laying it down for a few years. The color is very dark for a Pinot, still only minimal if any browning at the rim. One of those wines so balanced, it shows a hint of sweetness, even though totally dry. There is a nice combination of cool climate crisp spiciness, with totally ripe fruit. Has some, but not a big bunch of those typical Pinot rustic, earthy, barnyard flavors. The fruit is quick hitting, spicy strawberry and red raspberry first, but some blackberry next. Still quite tannic. Could easily age a few more years. The finish is strawberry preserves with some vanilla and spicy tannins.

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• 2001 Chehalem Pinot Noir Ridgecrest Vineyards 90 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge

  An old friend, this producer, and this vineyard never let us down. Back then Oregon Pinot Noir was just exiting the category of "hit or miss". It is time to drink up. The color is brownish and beginning to die. But, this is when you want to drink. We still get a serious lash of oak which evidently held thing together so far. The nose has some mature, mellow red fruit. The palate is solid 90 point layered and complex spicy maraschino cherry, red licorice, and mature vanilla. Things get better as we drink down the glass. Secondary flavors like tar and graphite enhance the richness. The oak, acid, and tannins have decided to harmonize. Super finish shows the emergence of dark fruit, especially blueberry with caramel, red licorice, wet earth a lingering blackberry.

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• 2002 Longfellow Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 91 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  2002 was a long time ago in the story of Sonoma Coast Pinot. So much good has happened since then, but it looks like these guys had a handle on what works back then. This is a big rich Pinot with lots of things going for it. The color was more brown than I would expect for a wine that tastes this good. The nose has a natural red and black fruit sweetness that is to be admired, especially at 10 + years. There are lots of flavorful things to discuss. The viscosity and mouth feel is heavy for a Pinot. The taste on the palate, through the finish is a lifted, spicy, maraschino cherry meets red licorice. Superb balance and tannin management. The oak, and alcohol are there, but in the background. As we get to the finish, more of the dark fruit flavors begin to emerge, especially blueberry. Can't forget the touch of earthy rusticity inherent to Pinot. The finish leaves a lingering hit of mocha that easily puts this wine in the 91 point arena.

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• 1998 Hanna Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 87 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley

  From a noted, non remarkable, vintage and, stored in questionable at best conditions, this Proprietor Grown Cabernet from a trusted producer, more than held it's own almost 15 years off the vine. In it's own peculiar way, this Cabernet exhibits some true Alexander Valley Cabernet characteristics. Most notably, most of the fruit flavors are of the red type. The color is beginning to fade toward the rim. The nose is red licorice, red raspberry and mature oak aromas. Alexander Valley Cabernet's are not thick and brooding, but still quite tannic and astringent, and this one is prime example. Medium plus bodied but relatively delicate. More red licorice and raspberry preserves on the palate. The tannins and acid are starting to out live the fruit. Some astringency with the red fruit on the finish.

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• 1996 Duckhorn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 90 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  During an evening of opening many red wine bottles from the mid 90's to early 2000's, this wine was clearly the best. It had a richness and fruitiness that made it's pedigreed Napa Valley roots proud. There is dark purple in color with the beginnings of browning to the rim. Even before the decant, you could smell youthful blueberry and blackberry fruit. When it hits the palate, the still very vibrant, young and juicy fruit profile is surprisingly red oriented, with an especially appealing maraschino cherry leading into the darker fruit. Must have been pretty oaky upon release. Completely integrated now, but we still taste and feel the influence of well managed acid and tannins that still tend to emerge solo if you let them. There is a welcome, enhancing hint of that time in cellar mustiness that can be so appealing with older Cabs. Full bodied and full throttled, this one was made to age and could still go a few more years. Gets quite interesting in the glass, and especially cameleon on the finish with red then black fruit dominating. Some enticing secondary flavors like cola, mocha, and mint lurk around in the finish.

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• 2000 Robert Biale Zinfandel Monte Rosso Vineyard 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley

  Oh my my, this is the real thing. One the the most respected Zinfandel producers with grapes from one of the most memorable vineyards in California. This 2000 is still an infant. Such a big mouth full of flavor, it is hard to know where to start. I get a savory flavor that is not typical for zin. One of the most prominent fruit flavors is mulberry, which also is somewhat unique. The richness and concentration is the type you expect if you score it 92. There is blueberry and cherry with bramble, smoke and a touch of barnyard. Not tannic. Balanced. Maybe the Biale team, or maybe the extended bottle age have tamed the famous Monte Rosso rusticity. A real treat.

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• 1999 Rosemount Estate Show Reserve GSM 89 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale

  Don't think this wine was designed to be opened some 14 years off the vine. When this wine was totally in fashion about 11 years ago, I remember it being not totally dry, which was fine for easy drinking. Now in 2013, this is one of those that somehow got overlooked in a cellar with just a little too much wine. It is fading, but all is not lost. These 3 grapes typically have some structure and character that work in harmony, and as we decant and enjoy it is actually fun to compare now with about 2001. They probably did not lash this with a ton of oak. The tannins are totally integrated, and somewhat dissipated. But, we decanted and poured this wine for several knowledgeable people who thoughtfully, and carefully tasted through a glass, then asked if any was left, so we get 89 points from consensus. We got scores from 85 to 89, and even one 90. So, hats off to Rosemount GSM which in a different time was a real crowd favorite as a fad, but still holds it's own on merit.

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• 1995 Wente Vineyards Merlot 89 Points

  USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley

  Despite all the bashing from the wine world about Merlot, this 1995 stored in an ordinary bedroom, opened in July 2013 was nearly as youthful and vibrant as at release. Sure the flavors have matured, but not diminished. The color is purple almost to the rim. In a decanter, it held together very nicely, several hours after uncorking. Still very fruity, in a blueberry preserves, or pie type of way. The oak and the tannins have become sort of chocolate and cocoa. Plenty of mature acid, that is still somewhat astringent and could easily age for a few more years. The finish has some menthol and graphite and a little earthy rusticity to the mature blackberry and blueberry fruit.

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• 1996 Parusso Barolo Mariondino 89 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  The best thing I can do is admit how terribly novice on how to evaluate a 1996 Barolo, I am, then try to describe what I perceived in the glass. I always though Nebbiolo was light in color almost like Pinot, but this wine has a nice dark, but not opaque purple color. The nose is still quite closed, probably indicating we did not wait long enough to pop the cork. The fruit and other secondary, non fruit flavors are reticent and lurking in the background. One of those wines with considerably more flavor than the medium bodied texture would indicate. As it gets some air, there is a dainty, elegant, light in character but concentrated richness that is about half fruit, and half non fruit. It is still kind of young on one hand, but acting adultish mature on the other. Smooth finish with some licorice and tar enhancing the mostly black fruit.

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• 1992 Durney Cabernet Sauvignon Durney Vineyards 86 Points

  USA, California

  So here we are 20 + years off the vine from a producer we don't know much about, releasing a Cabernet from an area not that well known for this varietal. It is still holding together. Sure it would have shown better 5 years ago. I think there must have been a big hit of oak upon release, which I think is the key to the longevity displayed here. Most of the fruit flavors are of the red type. I don't think was designed as a big wine, nor expected to hold up this well to age. The tannins and acid have matured and mostly resolved themselves to the background. Mature red raspberry on the beginning to fade finish.

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• 2009 August Briggs Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyard 89 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley

  Such a treat to taste a great wine from this pedigreed vineyard, produced by one of our favorite Napa Valley producers. I get to taste this wine because one of my friends is a long standing member of their wine club. Everything from Monte Rosso Vineyard tastes good to those who understand it's uniqueness. These close to 70 year old vines, planted about 1200' above Sonoma Valley look more like small trees than grapevines. They typically produce an "Olde Timey" style of astringent, rustic and super spicy wines. But, our heroes at August Briggs have extended their trademark fruit forward, easy drinking softness to even these narly old vines. They tamed most of the rusticity, but let a little remain to help us remember their origins. The color is deep purple. The nose has some gamey appeal with brooding, mountain grown black fruit. Still too young and astringent to fully appreciate. Nice combination of wild rusticity and soft, elegance. You get some of that old vine Cabernet mouth coating structure and character. Big lash of medium heavy toast oak. Still evolving tannins. The finish begins to bring out more of the dark fruit flavors with tar, graphite and licorice.

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