Rotating Dinner Series- 70s and 80s California Cabernets

Chris' place, Highland Park IL
Tasted Tuesday, July 30, 2013 by KeithAkers with 721 views

Introduction

This time it was Chris' turn to host. Instead of doing it at a restaurant, we all gathered at his place for a bunch of mature cali cabs, flannery, and more. Chris brought in his friend chef Nick Thompson to do the cooking. Nick set up the menu and did a really great job on the whole. There was a little rain towards the end, but we just adjusted and sat under some trees to stay dry.

Flight 1 - Opening bubbles and appetizers (2 Notes)

Oyster Shooters with Cucumber Juice, Hendricks and Ginger
Lamb Bacon, Caramelized Banana and Puff Pastry
Bourbon Cured Salmon, Cornmeal Cracker, Pickled Fennel and Crème Fraiche
Green Grape and Almond Gazpacho with Crème Fraiche Drizzle

  • 2002 Bernard Hatté Champagne Special Club 91 Points

    France, Champagne

    Nose: There is a very leesy quality to the nose with tones of brioche, green apples, yeasty tones, minerals, and some spiced pears. There is nice depth to the nose with a maturity to the tones as well.

    Taste: Full bodied with medium/high acidity. The structure is noticeable with rounded tones of green apples, brioche, minerals, yeast, and leesy tones.

    Overall: This was disgorged in 2012. That explains for the leesy-ness to this and there was a round quality on both the nose and palate.

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  • 2004 Gaston Chiquet Champagne Special Club Brut Vauzelle 92 Points

    France, Champagne

    Nose: Very fresh nose with deeper tones of red and green apples, lemon zest, minerals, brioche, and a good amount of white florals. There is a nice amount of class to this along with the freshness.

    Taste: Medium bodied with very noticeable medium/high acidity. The structure is extremely youthful as are the tones of red and green apples, lemon zest, minerals, crushed rocks, and white florals.

    Overall: This is a very youthful special club. I would like to see where this is in another 5 years. It's a youthful and beautiful wine right now that does seem like it has a great future.

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Flight 2 - Flight 1-Some odds and ends (3 Notes)

Grilled Octopus, Confit Potatoes, Pickled Eggplant, Tomato, Oil Cured Olives

  • 1974 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve Flawed

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Sadly this was DOA

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  • 1974 Inglenook Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 92 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Nose: Refined and flowing nose with well balanced and layered tones of mint, dark red cherries, dark berries, tobacco, leather, spice tones, and a nice dose of cedar.

    Taste: Medium bodied with medium acidity and resolved tannins. The feel is very polished and refined with elegant tones of mint, dark red cherries, tobacco, leather, cedar, and some star anise.

    Overall: This was a gorgeous older cali cab. This showed the class of older Inglenooks before the name was bastardized and shows how beautiful they still can be.

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  • 1978 Gallo Family Vineyards / Gallo of Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Northern Sonoma

    USA, California, Sonoma County, Northern Sonoma

    Nose: This is actually alive with tones of balsamic vinegar, dark red fruits, some liqueur, and cedar tones. There is nice balance to this and it stayed together for a bit.

    Taste: Medium bodied with resolved tannins. Well balanced with a refined feel and tones of balsamic vinegar, dark red fruits, soy, and some cedar.

    Overall: This was surprisingly alive and a decent wine. It was hard to get a full read on it as it fell apart after about a half hour, but it was enjoyable and drinkable.

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Flight 3 - Flight 2- a trio of 70s Heitz Martha's (3 Notes)

Seared Duck Breast with Corn Polenta, Goat Butter, Scallion Oil

  • 1975 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard 93 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    Nose: The first bottle wasn't showing, but this second was gorgeous on the nose with flowing tones of mint, eucalyptus, cassis, dark red cherries, cedar, spices, and some cranberries.

    Taste: Extremely well balanced medium body with medium acidity and silky tannins. The tannins are resolved and the tones of dried red cherries, cedar, eucalyptus, mint, and cassis tones.

    Overall: This note was from the second bottle. The first bottle was DOA, but the second bottle was fantastic. The second bottle showed the class of martha's vineyard.

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  • 1978 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard 94 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    Nose: Gorgeous and flowing nose filled with deep and layered tones of mint, eucalyptus, dried roses, dried red cherries, cedar, sweet cassis and a hint of licorice.

    Taste: Medium bodied with medium acidity and refined tannins. The tannins are mostly resolved, but are still slightly there with gorgeous and silky tones of mint, dried red cherries, dried roses, eucalyptus, and sweet cassis.

    Overall: This was a stunning wine. It showed a lot of refinement and layering with a seamless quality as well.

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  • 1979 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard Flawed

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    This didn't make it to the party sadly

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Flight 4 - Flight 3- 80s Dominus flight (3 Notes)

Flannery 21-Day Dry Aged Hanger Steak with Warm Mushroom Salad with Braised Beef Vinaigrette Topped with
Duck Egg with Shaved White Truffle

  • 1983 Dominus Estate 91 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Nose: Very open and perfumed nose with balanced tones of pencil lead, dark red cherries, cedar, leather, dark berries, and some earth tones.

    Taste: Medium/full bodied with medium acidity and nice supporting tannins. This does seem to be slightly lacking on the palate, but there are very pretty tones of pencil lead, earthen tones, dark red cherries, cedar, and some dark berries.

    Overall: This was the first ever Dominus and it's still holding up extremely well. The nose was beautiful, but the palate lacking a slight bit. Still, this was a very pretty and refined wine that was a pleasure to drink.

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  • 1984 Dominus Estate 93 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Nose: The nose is like a cross between a cabernet and a cornas with wild and feral tones striking right off the bat along with leather, black fruits, spices, black cherries, and cedar tones. There is very good depth with a robust quality as well.

    Taste: Medium/full bodied with medium acidity and some nice tannins. The feral tones continue along with a gameyness and tones of leather, black fruits, black cherries, earth, and some incense that emerges with a bit more air.

    Overall: This was a very unique and exciting Dominus. The profile wasn't traditionally californian or what I'm used to from Dominus, but that's what made it fun.

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  • 1986 Dominus Estate 93 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Nose: There is very good balance to the tones of leather, cedar, cassis, dark red fruits, dark red cherries, some earth tones, spices, and dark floral notes as well. There is very good depth and layering with a lot of class on the nose as well.

    Taste: Medium/full bodied with medium acidity and nice supporting tannins. The palate is silky with tones of leather, dark red fruits, dark red cherries, earth, spices, and violets. The tones grow across the palate and explode on the back end.

    Overall: This is still a wonderful Dominus. It's been 5 years since I've had one, and it's still just as elegant as it was back then.

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Flight 5 - Flight 4- 80s Dunn Howell Mountains (3 Notes)

Flannery Rib Cap Steaks, Bellwether Ricotta Gnudi and Black Truffle Sauce

  • 1982 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 93 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain

    Nose: This was extremely tight at first, but finally unwound later in the night with gorgeous and flowing tones of dark red cherries, mint, cassis, very pure red fruits, floral tones, roses, and some red currants.

    Taste: Full bodied with some chewy tannins and medium acidity. There is still a lot of youth on the palate with polished and pure tones of dark red cherries, red currants, mint, cassis, and some floral tones on the back end.

    Overall: This was still extremely young and certainly didn't show it's age. It took some time to fully open up, but when it did, it was gorgeous.

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  • 1985 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 95 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain

    Nose: Absolutely soaring and captivating nose filled with layered tones of pure red fruits, cherries, mint, cassis, all sorts of red florals, eucalyptus, and dark berries.

    Taste: Full bodied with medium acidity and very nice tannins. There is still good structure along with polished and layered tones of red fruits, cherries, mint, cassis, dark berries, violets, and all sorts of floral tones.

    Overall: This was a stunning wine. This was filled with class and depth. This was a special wine and it was gorgeous at every point.

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  • 1987 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 93 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain

    Nose: The nose was a bit tight at first, but it then revealed beautiful tones of mint, cassis, dark red fruits, potpourri, licorice, spices, cedar, and some floral tones. There is very nice depth and style to the nose as well.

    Taste: Full bodied with medium+ acidity and chewy tannins. The structure is still very youthful with classy tones of mint, cassis, dark red fruits, cedar, incense, potpourri, and floral tones.

    Overall: This was a real polished Dunn. There is really good depth and layering on it, but there is still a long way for it to go.

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Flight 6 - Ending dessert (1 Note)

Grilled Peaches, White Chocolate Lemon Panna Cotta, Hazelnut Brittle
And Honey Thai Basil Glaze

  • 1989 Chateau St. Jean Johannisberg Riesling Special Select Late Harvest 88 Points

    USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

    Nose: The nose is very rich with a lot of caramel, toffee, and syrup tones. There is decent depth to this, but it is very straightforward.

    Taste: Full bodied with medium acidity. There is nice balance with straightforward tones of caramel, honey, and toffee.

    Overall: This was very interesting, but it was lacking somewhat. It was a good way to end the evening and provided a nice look at an aged domestic LH riesling.

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Closing

Yet another great dinner. There were a few wines that didn't make it to the party, but when you're dealing with older wines it can happen. Still, the wines that did show, showed extremely well. Granted, considering the line-up, it shouldn't have been all too surprising. This showed what great cali cabs can do done in a classic style.

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