Great wines for no special reason

My friend Duke is extremely generous with his wines and knowing that he would find an appreciated audience he opened several unexpected and wonderful wines for a Saturday night dinner of grilled steak and corn.

• 2011 Vietti Roero Arneis 89 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Roero

  Light, crisp, fruity, nice acidity, a little lemon zest going on. Perfect splash at the start of an evening outdoors.

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• 1997 Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne Brut Rosé Cuvée Palmes d'Or 92 Points

  France, Champagne

  I love champagne but sometimes find a slight bitter quality in the rose wines. There was none of that here. This one is coming into it's own with full, round flavors, a touch of warm yeast and zingy red fruits. Small and persistent mousse lasted for quite a while. The wine came together nicely as a whole and was a great start t the evening.

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• 1998 Soldera (Az. Agr. Case Basse) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 95 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  I tend to enjoy Brunello but had never had a chance to try a Soldera. Probably the best brunello I have had. Warm, full, lush and complex with qualities of dry cherries, prunes, and a touch of tar. Great wine that fills every nook and cranny of your mouth. I might have preferred this even more in the fall or winter more than on a sultry summer night but it is great wine all the time.

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• 1982 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único 96 Points

  Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

  Served early and remained the wotn over an evening of great wines. Somehow, this shows both power and restraint. Bright red fruit, bright tannins and a touch of smoke and leather all vying for attention in your mouth simultaneously. Absolutely no sign of age on this wine. The more I have the opportunity to taste older Vegas, the more I think they are among my favorite wines (and this from a burgundy lover). Thanks for serving this.

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• 1971 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Always something of a miracle to find this wine still going strong and representing a beautiful, fully mature barolo with all there is to love in such a wine. I bought 4 of these a few years ago. This was the third that I have drunk and the first to show some small signs of age. I will drink the next one soon but it is a privilege each time.

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• 1997 Harlan Estate 92 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  I have enjoyed some Harlan's before, but not this vintage. I understand that there is some controversy and some bottle variation. Unfortunately, my experience tonight comes in on the lower side of the scale. This was big, hot and somewhat one-dimensional. That one dimension was pretty good and pushes the score into the 90s but it is not up there in the pantheon of great wines. The heat, the VA and the lack of complexity made it less that I expected.

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I came somewhat late in my tasting career to Vega Sicilia but the more I have a chance to taste it, the more I find it to be exactly in my wheelhouse. I like it any time of year, with almost any kind of food. The '82 on this night struck a perfect balance of fruit, multiple flavors, grip, and presence in the mouth that was irresistible. In the words the great t. geisel, I would drink it in box, or with a fox, and it would probably go great with Serano ham of any color. The other wines were mostly great as well and I would come back to the Soldera on a cooler night and enjoy it even more. The 97 Harlan was the first of that vintage for me and I understand that there is some controversy and some bottle variation. This one was something of a hot mess.