San Diego WineSpectator.com Offline, 9/20/2013

The arrival of Wine+Art and DoubleD in town gave ample reason for another splendid offline. How nice to meet a new addition to our group, "The Old Man." The Westgate Room -- my suggestion -- a venue that has promoted itself aggressively of late -- underwhelmed both in cuisine and service. My Alaskan king crab cake was fine, but the lamb chop was more fat than meat. And poor SD-Wineaux had to wait so long for both of his courses, that he ordered us to start without him. Fortunately, all the wines were superb, and the company even better. Rankings are by group vote; tasting notes and scores are my own.

• 1996 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut 95 Points

  France, Champagne

  Clear light straw yellow-gold, very fine bead. Notes of brioche, fresh croissant, apple cider, white grapefruit, ginger, hint of dry butterscotch. Tart, crisp, mouthwatering, with wonderful purity and minerality. After 45 minutes, the wine remains lively, and the yeastiness is gone, with notes of apple, ginger, and alfalfa moving to the forefront. Disgorged 1 September 2006. 70% pinot noir, 30% chardonnay. 75% grand cru. My #3; group's SECOND PLACE tonight.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2004 Didier Dagueneau Silex 93 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé

  Clear light straw yellow. Wonderful notes of smoke, lemon, green kiwi, musk, hints of daisies and oyster shells. Others at the table reported jalapeno peppers, with which I do not disagree. Crisp, fresh, pure, with amazing structure. After 60 minutes, lemons and apples take center stage.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2009 M. Chapoutier Saint-Joseph Blanc Les Granits 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Saint-Joseph

  Clear light yellow-gold. Notes of flowers, quince paste, nougat, and allspice. I was also impressed by a sense of terroir, specifically of granite boulders, and do not think this was merely suggested by the wine's name. Wonderful purity and balance. Attractive notes of vanilla and white peach appeared later. 100% marsanne. Tied for THIRD PLACE tonight.

  Read 1 Comment / Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No

• 1997 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Clear medium ruby-brick red. Wonderful notes of bright red cherries, with a preserved/stewed quality yet somehow retaining their freshness. Welcome supporting notes of mint, leather, incense, evergreen underbrush. With air, eventually picks up some evolved notes of roses and tar. Gripping, mouth-coating tannins off-putting for some. Others remarked "needs meat" or "not a sipping wine." Tied for THIRD PLACE tonight.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2004 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Clear medium garnet-purple. Rich, dense, ultra-ripe red fruit, melted licorice, grilled herbs, asphalt, stony soil. Full body with great balance and firm tannins. Would love to re-visit in a few years.

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No

• 1990 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Clear medium garnet-blood ruby color. Bouquet of bright fresh red cherries, cigar tobacco, red currants, saddle leather. Similar on the palate, with beautiful balance, full body, long finish. Rich and sophisticated. Others remarked "classic Bordeaux -- screams Pauillac." My #1 tonight.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 1989 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Clear dark blood-garnet color, darker than the 1990. Fabulous bouquet of cigar tobacco, red currants, leafy tomato vine, forest floor, black truffles. Graceful, regal, effortless balance. I thought this was too tertiary, but others said it was still closed, with "decades to go." Easily our FIRST PLACE wine tonight.

  Post a Comment / 2 people found this helpful, do you? Yes - No

• 1982 Château Montrose 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

  Opened at 6 PM, allowed to breathe in bottle until 7 PM, then decanted and quickly re-bottled. Tasted at 9 PM. Clear dark blood-brick red. Wonderful bouquet of cigar tobacco, red currants, forest floor, with a fresh edge of evergreen and lavender. Elegant, balanced, full body, long finish. Still singing as I write this at 1:45 AM. My #2 tonight.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

At one point in the evening, Wine+Art remarked that a certain someone "wouldn't know the difference between a barbera and a barbaresco." For a suitable deposit to my Paypal account, I may be persuaded to divulge the identity of so-and-so. Thanks to SD-Wineaux for organizing this event. A big welcome to newcomers The Old Man and DoubleD. Great to see Wine+Art again. Thanks to all for their generosity. Cheers until next time!