Napa Valley Wine and Food Excursion 2013
Napa Valley, California
Tasted Monday, September 30, 2013 - Saturday, October 5, 2013 by La Cave d'Argent with 1,910 views
Introduction
In addition to being a premier wine producing area, the Napa Valley has become equally famous from a culinary standpoint. This was confirmed first-hand on a recent spontaneous five night/six-day journey to the area.
Our accomodations for the first three nights were suboptimal. As we had done in the 1980s and early 1990s, we stayed at the Silverado Resort. 
It certainly brought back memories, but unfortunately the room was not updated at all from the same time frame! We changed rooms, with modest improvement. Silverado is a gorgeous property, but the hotel owners do not own the rooms, which are actually the property of individual condominium owners. As such, they are remodeled without uniformity and most of them are circa 1985.
Our final two nights were spent at the Harvest Inn (St. Helena). 
We too had previously stayed there many years ago. It was even more beautiful than we had remembered, and every aspect of the inn was beautifully updated. Our room had a deck that was literally a few feet away from the Leonardini Vineyard. Although pricey, it is worth every penny. Life is too short to not experience the Harvest Inn.
Flight 1 - Day One (9/30/2013) (20 Notes)
Arriving fairly early in the morning, we proceeded to enjoy a fantastic breakfast at Alexis Baking Company ("ABC"). This is a quaint little bakery and eatery in downtown Napa where we devoured a delicious roasted vegetable omelette and Mexican breakfast quesadilla.
Our first winery stop was Castello di Amorosa. We took the standard tour and tasting ($34 per person). The tour is certainly worth taking once. The dungeon and torture room were authentic to the point of being emotionally disturbing. The tasting rooms were numerous and grotto-like. Unfortunately, the wines did not live up to the grandeur of the edifice.
We then proceeded to Hall Wines, where they were tasting several of the Hall offerings, as well as those of their sister Pinot Noir-producing facility from Sonoma County (Walt Wines). Overall, the experience was very positive. The wines were excellent and the tasting room employees were friendly.
Our last winery stop was Silver Oak. As usual, the tasting room was a popular place. Tastings were $20 per person, with tasters being allowed to keep the wine glass (which was indeed a quality stem).
Tired and frustrated after finally settling for a less-than-optimal room at Silverado, we decided to order room service to go with a bottle of 2010 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon T-Bar-T Ranch. Fortunately the burgers were great, as was the wine.
Flight 2 - Day Two (10/1/2013) (21 Notes)
Our day began with breakfast at The Model Bakery in St. Helena. This is another cozy little bakery/eatery, where we had an experience comparable to that of the previous morning at Alexis Baking Company. The egg sandwich with their famous house-made English muffins was fantastic!
Our first winery visit of the day was a scheduled appointment at Corison. The tour and tasting were private, personal and fun. The wines were fantastic and the highlight was being able to meet with and chat with Cathy Corison, who was very cordial despite the fact that new fruit was being fermented and pressed.
Del Dotto is a very ornate, interesting winery. We did not take the tour. The wine lineup included one (the Zinfandel "Clay Pot") which was virtually undrinkable.
Another private tasting followed at Chappellet atop Pritchard Hill. This windy road, mountain journey is not for the faint of heart. It is definitely a "destination" winery. Given its remote location and difficult access, it is hard to imagine how they can produce wine there. But produce wine they do, and their lineup was quite good!
Our final winery of the day was Alpha Omega, a physically attractive facility with very good wines. This is just off Highway 29, has friendly staff and is worth the stop.
Dinner was thoroughly enjoyable at Redd in Yountville. Dishes included yellowfin tuna tartare (Asian pear, avocado, chili oil, fried rice, cilantro), carnaroli Maine lobster risotto (meyer lemon confit, truffle oil), caramelized diver scallops (cauliflower, capers, almonds, golden raisins) and prime New York steak (cranberry bean, Swiss chard, fennel, red wine sauce). The food was enjoyed with a bottle of 2005 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon.
Flight 3 - Day Three (10/2/2013) (32 Notes)
Breakfast at Auberge du Soleil on the deck overlooking the Napa Valley...life is good (especially when eating their wonderful house-made coffee cake)!
A friendly, nice tasting experience was had at Twomey. The tastings were complementary, as we were the beneficiaries of vouchers from the tasting room attendant at Silver Oak. Attractive in its modesty, this winery is what used to be Stonegate.
Provenance/Hewitt was a fantastic experience. Not only were the wines superb, but I (entirely by chance) discovered that senior winemaker Chris Cooney is the son of the physician who provided me with my wine "moment" in 1984. Pouring numerous top-growth Bordeaux wines at that dinner in '84, Dr. Cooney retrieved a "nightcap" from his cellar...1968 BV Private Reserve! That wine, at that time, was responsible for giving me the desire to learn about, procure, collect and enjoy wine.
The Elizabeth Spencer experience was antithetical to that of Provenance/Hewitt. The "library tasting" was $40 per person. The attendant would leave the room to pour each "library" wine in the glass. We never viewed the bottles! When asked about each wine's details, she would reply with things like "the alcohol is between 12 and 15 percent." She was totally clueless. The tasting volumes were all miniscule (less than an ounce). I would highly recommend avoiding the place. I personally will never buy their wines again.
Our faith was restored by Signorello, where we liked the wines and thoroughly enjoyed a nice chat with the winemaker's lovely wife. The winemaker himself (Pierre Birebent) was briefly in the tasting room. The poor guy was exhausted, as he was dealing with newly-arriving (gorgeous) fruit. Signorello is definitely worth the stop...good people!
Darioush was also a positive experience. A strikingly attractive facility where excellent wines are produced. We were treated to witnessing a beautiful bride and groom having photos taken at the entrance...reminded us of when we were young.
Grgich is Grgich. The old standby, with great history, great wines, great people. Fruit was coming in and Mike (in his 90s) was on the property. We settled for a photo with his cardboard image.
Dinner this night was our favorite of the trip: Bottega in Yountville. Michael Chiarello has created a restaurant with an inviting, modern atmosphere. He has staffed it with affable, competent people (at all levels) and, most importantly, has created such an imaginative, "fresh" menu. I cannot remember all of the dishes, but those that I do remember included hamachi crudo on a pink Himalayan salt brick, shaved Brussels sprout salad (Meyer lemon dressing, toasted Marcona almonds, sieved egg, Pecorino cheese), wild king salmon risotto and grilled ibérico pork shoulder loin. These dishes (among others) and a bottle of 2009 Hewitt Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon...heaven!
Flight 4 - Day Four (10/3/2013) (24 Notes)
The day began with a "conventional" but quite nice breakfast at The Grille at Siverado. Tummies full, we ventured on to Miner Family Winery. This was a fun experience! The young men who were running the tasting room were friendly, accomodating, funny and knew a lot about the wines. The wines themselves were top notch. A great way to start the day!
Our next stop was at Odette, a Plumpjack property which is not yet selling the Stags Leap estate wines that they will be initiating with the 2012 vintage. The "Adaptation" line of wines is what they were pouring in their tasting room. They were also kind enough to pour a couple of Cade wines. The tasting was only $10, reflecting their humility in not yet serving their top flight wines.
Crocker and Starr was a pre-arranged, very personal tasting and vineyard tour. Wow...what can I say? I hate wine clubs. I do not join wine clubs. Crocker and Starr's wine club was an offer that I could not refuse. Send me those gems any day!
Heitz Cellar is a throwback. We loved it. No tasting fee. Friendly staff. Great history. Great wines. We were even treated to the '08 Martha's. Ultimately we bought a bottle of 2002 Trailside to take with us to dinner (on the following night).
We knew nothing about William Harrison Vineyards and Winery. A small-volume producer located along the Silverado Trail, it is a winery well worth visiting. Mr. Harrison himself (in his seventies) was there overseeing (and forking) gorgeous Cabernet Franc fruit being loading on the screw drive to the crusher-stemmer. The guy looks like a man in his early sixties! The winery rep ("Shelly") was great. Friendly and knowledgable, she gave us a spontaneous mini-tour of the winery. The wines themselves were excellent and are definitely worth the search.
We concluded our day with dinner at Ad Hoc restaurant in Yountville. This is a playful creation of Thomas Keller, where variations of pork and other meat dishes are served as a set menu which differs each night. I can only remember that the food was delicious, whimsical and paired well with the 2011 Twomey Pinot Noir Russian River Valley.
Flight 5 - Day Five (10/4/2013) (17 Notes)
Breakfast at the Harvest Inn (which is, essentially, a luxury B&B) was enjoyed on the deck overlooking the Leonardini Vineyard. It was delicious (especially the quiche) and a great way to start the day.
Monticello, owned by the Corley Family, is a beautiful winery with reasonably-priced, "serviceable" wines. The tasting room attendant was an elderly lady who was delightful. That said, the wines are fairly pedestrian.
Our stop at James Cole winery was interesting. We had no appointment, but they made an exception and allowed us to taste. The tasting room was staffed by several young men and women. They were initially catering to a group, but did ultimately give us plenty of attention. There was rock music blaring very loudly in the room...I could barely hear myself think! I wanted to leave, but am so glad that I didn't. The Umbral Reserve Cabernet was the best wine that I tasted on our trip. Absolutely stunning!
The final winery stop of the day was Black Stallion. Owned by the Indelicato family (of Delicato Family Vineyards, a large Central Valley producer), it is located at the site of an old stable/horse breeding facility along the Siverado Trail. The winery is physically very beautiful and would be a great venue for a party or wedding reception. The "all red" tasting was (as is typically the case) $20 per person. Friendly staff and respectable wines made this a pleasant stop. No appointment was necessary.
Dinner at Bouchon was another culinary adventure. I take notes on wines and sporadic photos of dishes. I just wish that I could remember the details of the food with a bit more clarity. That said, I do recall outstanding frisée salad with frog's legs, mussels, French onion soup par excellence, cured wild salmon salad and the best truffled pomme frites. I left the wine in our hotel room and we settled for something nondescript (by the glass) off the restaurant's list (a wine which I cannot even recall). 
In our room we later enjoyed the bottle that we had planned to bring (the 2002 Heitz Trailside Cab).
Flight 6 - Day Six (10/5/2013) (10 Notes)
It is always a sad day when you have to leave the Napa Valley. That said, we made the best of it. A wonderful Harvest Inn breakfast was followed by a spontaneous stop at Foley Johnson. This was one (of only two) wineries where there was no tasting fee. This winery (formerly Sawyer) is now owned by the private travel/winery/golf conglomerate of Bill Foley and Carol Johnson. A very pleasant, low-key experience. It was fascinating to see the flat screen TV with photos of the properties owned by this couple. The wines were quite solid.
Our final winery destination was Cosentino, along Highway 29 on the way to Bistro Jeanty in Yountville. Things are a bit confusing with their lines of wine, ownership, etc. If they can clean things up with respect to labeling and brand identity, they certainly have the grape sources to make fine wine.
Prior to driving our rental car out of the valley, we stopped at Bistro Jeanty for lunch. Our conclusion was unanimous...Philippe Jeanty is a culinary genious. Onion soup gratinee, escarole salad with a soft boiled egg and a warm apple smoked bacon vinaigrette, salmon rillettes with horseradish panna cotta, etc. What a way to go!!!
Closing
Although a bit more crowded, a bit more commercialized and a lot more expensive, our Napa wine tasting experience was still educational and fun. We look forward to returning, but more so for the restaurants than for the $20-$50 wine samples.
2012 Castello di Amorosa Gewürztraminer Anderson Valley 91 Points
USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
(9/30/2013)
Castello di Amorosa has produced a winner with this pale yellow, intensely aromatic wine. Kiwi, rose petals, pine nuts and white peaches adorn the nose and palate. Light-bodied, fresh and dry on the palate, it has alcohol (14.5%) which lurks in the background without any whiff of heat. Solid in the middle and ending in lengthy crisp fashion, this is definitely the over-achiever in the family. Drink now-2015.
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2010 Castello di Amorosa Merlot Napa Valley 86 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
(9/30/2013)
This Merlot has only a splash (1%) of Cabernet Sauvignon in its blend. Medium-to-deep ruby in color, it shows a nice nose of bramble fruits, espresso and mocha. Medium-bodied and round on the palate, it struts flavors similar to the nose in a frame of medium fine-grained tannins and well-integrated alcohol (listed as 14.4%). Solid in the middle, the wine concludes with a medium-length, smooth finish. This is a respectable Merlot, but the savvy shopper should question the value here. Drink now-2016.
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2010 Castello di Amorosa Zingaro 82 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
(9/30/2013)
A blend of 86% Zinfandel, 11% Primitivo (Italian Zinfandel clone) and 2% Petite Verdot, this is a medium-to-deep ruby wine which shows promise at the outset. The nose flaunts nice aromas of dark berries, black pepper, vanilla and licorice. Unfortunately, the palate offers a flabby, lightly tannic entry which persists throughout the middle. The lack of character on the palate is somewhat mitigated by its well-integrated alcohol (listed as 14.9%), but the terse finish is inexcusable. While it can be said that there are undoubtedly fans of this style, I am certainly not one of them. Drink now-2015.
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2009 Castello di Amorosa Il Brigante 83 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
(9/30/2013)
This deep ruby wine is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Sangiovese, 17% Cabernet Franc, 7% Zinfandel, 5% Merlot and 5% Malbec. Aromas and flavors of black cherries, currants and damp earth are presented in a medium-bodied, flabby frame. The tannins are medium in weight and the alcohol (listed as 14.0%) is well-integrated. The fruit persists nicely in the middle and the smooth finish is medium in length. A bit more acid would have helped this wine, but many may enjoy its its lack of muscle. Drink now-2016.
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2009 Castello di Amorosa Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 84 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
(9/30/2013)
This deep ruby Cabernet has nice aromas of cassis, pickling spice, pine nuts and nutmeg. Unfortunately, the palate falls flabby and is unimpressive. The flavors mirror the nose, but do so in an unstructured, medium-bodied, lightly tannic frame. The finish is medium-length and devoid of acid. This wine is certainly not worthy of the majestic castle in which it was vinified. That said, it is technically without flaws. Many may find it enjoyable...just not this taster. Drink now-2018.
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2012 Hall Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 89 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
(9/30/2013)
This 100% stainless steel, light yellow Sauvignon shows a perfumed nose of citrus, apple, peach and tropical fruit. It is light-bodied, with fresh acidity and slightly hot alcohol (listed as 14.5%). The flavors mirror the nose and the middle palate is solid. Although long and crisp on the finish, it concludes with a whiff of heat (despite appropriate chilling). Although the alcohol could be a bit more tame, this is a well-made, enjoyable wine which would stand nicely alone or as a companion to light fare. Drink now-2015.
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2012 Hall Sauvignon Blanc T-Bar-T Ranch 92 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
(9/30/2013)
This straw-colored wine was fermented in 20% new French oak, with the balance fermented in neutral French oak and stainless steel drums. It has just the right amount of oak to lend some complexity while at the same time not imparting an "oaky" character. The nose shows intense aromas of tropical fruits, walnuts, white peaches and baking spices. Light-to-medium-bodied on the palate, it offers up flavors similar to the nose, in a frame of crisp acidity and well-integrated alcohol (listed as 14.4%). Solid in the middle and long on the finish, this is an upper-echelon Sauvignon Blanc. It should drink at its best over the next two years. Drink now-2015.
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2011 Walt Chardonnay La Brisa 89 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County
(9/30/2013)
Sourced from the Dutton Ranch and Sangiacomo vineyards, this Chardonnay is produced without fining or filtration. Medium gold in color, it shows moderately intense pear, vanilla, honeysuckle and tropical fruit aromas. The wine is medium-bodied and round on the palate, with well-integrated oak and alcohol (14.4%). The flavors mirror the nose and the middle palate is solid. The wine concludes with a creamy-textured, medium-length finish. This wine will not be confused with Burgundy, but it flaunts the beauty of New World fruit and an oak component which complements but does not dominate. It should be at its best over the next three years. Drink now-2016.
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2011 Walt Pinot Noir Blue Jay 92 Points
USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
(9/30/2013)
Feminine in style and graceful on the palate, this deep ruby Pinot shows aromas and flavors of black cherries, pomegranates, violets and subtle earth notes. Medium-bodied, fresh and lightly tannic, it delivers its flavors in silky smooth fashion. The alcohol (despite being listed as 15.2%) is seamless and the middle palate is solid. Long and velvety on the finish, this lovely lady should remain gorgeous for another five years or more. Drink now-2018.
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2011 Walt Pinot Noir The Corners 92 Points
USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
(9/30/2013)
Unfined and unfiltered, this medium-to-deep ruby wine offers focused raspberry, lavender, ganache and cinnamon aromas. Medium bodied, fresh, moderately tannic and lightly oaked, it follows with flavors running tandem to the nose. The alcohol (listed as 14.8%) is nicely integrated and the middle palate is solid. Concluding with a lengthy, crisp finish, this is a delicious Pinot which has the structure to drink nicely for several more years. Drink now-2020.
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2010 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Eighteen Seventy-Three Napa Valley 93 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
(9/30/2013)
The debut vintage of this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon offering is quite impressive. Opaque crimson in color and showing intense aromas of black currants, anise, vanilla and dried herbs, it follows with a full-bodied, round, supple-textured palate. The tannins are generous but very fine-grained and the alcohol is seamless (despite being listed as 15.5%). Black fruits, fig, licorice and chocolate dominate the flavor profile and build throughout the middle. Long and smooth on the finish, this new label from Hall will undoubtedly be on the radar for those who love fine Napa Cabernet. Drink now-2025.
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2010 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Kathryn Hall Napa Valley 94 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
(9/30/2013)
An opaque crimson blend of 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, this is a wine which "wows" from the get-go. Dense and expressive, it flaunts intense aromas and flavors of black cherries, minerals, chocolate and pipe tobacco. The mouth-coating flavors mingle effortlessly on a full-bodied frame of low-to-medium acidity, big sweet tannins and well-integrated alcohol (listed as 15.1%). The middle palate is solid and the wine finishes with lengthy intensity. Hall has crafted a gem with this offering. It is very approachable already and should drink nicely for another 10-12 years (or more). Drink now-2025.
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2010 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Ellie's 89 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
(9/30/2013)
A blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, this deep ruby wine offers nice aromas of chocolate, black currants, loamy earth and pickling spice. Medium-bodied, round and softly tannic, it has a very supple texture. The flavors mirror the nose and the alcohol (listed as 15.0%) incorporates nicely. With nice persistence throughout the middle and finish, this is a wine which is really a pleasure to drink. I would favor enjoying it over the next 5-7 years, although it could possibly hold up longer. Drink now-2020.
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2010 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon T-Bar-T Ranch 93 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
(9/30/2013)
Rich and intense, this opaque crimson wine (a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot) has an intoxicating floral nose, supported by aromas of ripe plums, cassis, cedar and licorice. Full-bodied, fresh and layered on the palate, it unfolds with ripe black fruits, sage, black pepper and hints of game. The tannins are substantial but very fine-grained, and the alcohol is nicely integrated (despite being listed as 15.0%). Solid in the middle and long on the finish, this is a quality Cabernet with real structure. Drink 2015-2025.
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2010 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 90 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
(9/30/2013)
This opaque crimson wine (a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 3% Syrah, 3% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 1% Malbec) delivers a mix of ripe black cherry, cassis, chocolate and fennel aromas. Full-bodied, round and moderately tannic on the palate, it follows with flavors of dark berries, dried herbs and espresso. The alcohol (listed as 15.0%) is notable, but integrates nicely if the wine is served at 60-65° F. Solid in the middle, it finishes with substantial length. Enjoyable now, this is a wine which should show at its best over the next 6-7 years. Drink now-2020.
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2010 Hall Darwin 90 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
(9/30/2013)
A 100% Syrah offering, this is a wine which requires an appropriate serving temperature of 60-65° F (owing to its 15.7% alcohol). Opaque crimson in color, it has a beautiful nose of boysenberry, lavender, mineral and Asian spice aromas. Full-bodied, round and almost unctuous on the palate, it coats the taster's mouth with ripe bramble fruit and smoky flavors, supported by big sweet tannins. Solid in the middle and concluding with a lengthy finish, this is a bruiser which would complement red meat or heavier fowl-based dishes (such Peking duck). Enjoy it over the next decade. Drink now-2023.
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2006 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 88 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
(9/30/2013)
This deep ruby/red (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) wine, aged entirely in American oak, shows a moderately intense nose of dark plums, lavender potpourri, tobacco and eucalyptus. The palate is round, medium-bodied, lightly tannic and has flavors which mirror the nose. The alcohol (listed as 13.3%) is nicely integrated. Solid in the middle and concluding long, this is an enjoyable Cabernet which should hold up well over the next five years. Drink now-2018.
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2008 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 91 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
(9/30/2013)
This opaque ruby wine is a blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. As is the case with all Napa Valley Silver Oak offerings, it was aged for 24 months in 100% new American oak. The nose shows dried currant, chocolate, dill, eucalyptus and allspice aromas. The wine is full-bodied, round and silky-textured on the palate, with big sweet tannnins and seamless alcohol (14.1%). The flavors mirror the nose and gain traction throughout the middle and the lengthy finish. This vintage of Silver Oak's Napa bottling will undoubtedly be a hit with those who enjoy the style. Drink now-2028.
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2005 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 90 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
(9/30/2013)
This iteration of Silver Oak's Napa Valley bottling is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot (aged in 100% new American oak). Deep ruby/red in color, it gushes with dark berry fruit, accompanied by aromas and flavors of espresso, licorice, chocolate and dill. Medium-to-full-bodied and round on the palate, it is very easy to drink as a result of its medium-weight sweet tannins, seamless alcohol (13.5%) and silky mouth texture. The wine finishes quite long and smooth. This Napa offering remains true to Silver Oak's style. Drink now-2023.
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2009 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 88 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
(9/30/2013)
This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon was aged for 24 months in American oak (50% new, 50% once-used). Deep ruby and showing moderately intense aromas of wild berries, lavender, vanilla and eucalyptus, it follows with similar flavors in a round, full-bodied frame. The generous tannins are somewhat rustic, while the alcohol (listed as 13.9%) is well-integrated. Solid in the middle, it concludes with a medium-length, dry finish. Short-term cellaring will likely be helpful in softening the the tannic bite. Drink 2015-2023.
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