VEO tasting - Mature Claret

Restaurant Bordewijk, Amsterdam, NL
Tasted Friday, November 8, 2013 by Xavier Auerbach with 703 views

Flight 1 (2 Notes)

  • 2004 Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut Vintage 92 Points

    France, Champagne

    Characteristically rich, Pinot-dominated style, rich and rounded on the palate but with some of the mineral freshness of the 2004 vintage; red fruit, spice, attractive, well-balanced; for drinking now and over the next few years.

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  • 2004 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Sec 88 Points

    France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

    Firm core of acidity, touches of very ripe fruit on the nose, good Chenin typicity but not very communicative, very dry on the palate, chamomile, yellow apple; decent length. Does not come across as very harmonious on its own, but did very well with the bonito.

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Flight 2 (2 Notes)

  • 1970 Château Gruaud Larose 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Level base of (the long) neck. Remarkably deep and youthful, typical Gruaud power and weight, could easily be mistaken for a wine from the 1980's, still a good stuffing of ripe fruit, well-structured, wonderful Saint-Julien typicity, excellent length. Impressive.

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  • 1970 Château Cos d'Estournel 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

    Very top shoulder level. Much lighter and more mature than the Gruaud 1970, still lively and certainly not drying out, gains balance in the glass, unexpected floral topnote, fresh but living precariously with the tannins completely used up and the fruit starting to show hints of overripe sweetness. Maintains its balance but drink up.

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Flight 3 (2 Notes)

  • 1985 Château Léoville Las Cases 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Attractive, fully mature, lively, clean, well-structured, very feminine style for a modern LLC, classic Pauillac (sic!) profile, pure and precise, richer style than the 1970, wonderful complexity, lovage, floral, ripe fruit.

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  • 1970 Château Léoville Las Cases 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Top shoulder level. Relatively slender and linear, fully mature, cedary, slightly tight but with a wonderful balance and harmony, very stylish and elegant, very fresh and youthful, bright red fruit, still supported by its tannins, clearly a very gentle extraction, a great classic claret. An excellent showing tonight, far better than its dodgy reputation and better than on previous occasions.

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Flight 4 (2 Notes)

  • 1970 Château Palmer 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Crushed red fruit and minerals, almost Pinot Noir like elegance and fragrance, stunningly stylish, supremely elegant, almost on a par with the (much richer) 1961, so fresh and harmonious, still has the tannic grip and the balance to live to a distinguished old age. Incredibly delicious.

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  • 1985 Château Palmer 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    A blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot. Not easy to assess initially, not corked but seems off-kilter, with striking oyster shell minerality on the nose and a very vegetal palate with a rough edge. Some oxygen cleans it up quickly however and reveals its slightly meaty, elegant style. Fully mature, not as refined or balanced as the 1970.

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Flight 5 (2 Notes)

  • 1985 Château Haut-Brion 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Blood, red meat, bacon, iron, bricky warmth, very Graves, exemplary finesse, elegant, gentle, seamless, inimitable elegance but no lack of power, complex. Very impressive 1985, still has a long time ahead of it.

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  • 1970 Château Haut-Brion 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Level 5 cm below the cork - correct for age. Gentle, fully mature, not very expressive but subtle and deep; a wonderfully delicate and elegant expression of its exalted terroir, so intricate, a latticework of flavours, an essence of Graves, wonderful ripe fruit and again that wonderful 1970-balance and life-sustaining tannin; very good length.

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Flight 6 (3 Notes)

  • 1982 Château Sociando-Mallet 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    The yield was a whopping 70 hl/ha at Sociando in 1982. The wine does not seem to have suffered from that, however. Rich and ripe style, a true 1982, good tannic grip; a thoroughly satisfying and attractive wine but without the elegance and finesse of a truly great terroir.

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  • 1966 Château Latour Les Forts de Latour 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Wonderfully delicious, elegant, startling floral Pinot fragrance, feminine, long, persistent; inimitable expression of terroir, incredibly young and vibrant after almost half a century, wonderful sweet cherry fruit, pure; excellent length. Brilliant.

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  • 1976 Château Latour Grand Vin 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Supple, attractive roasted character, still has tannic grip. gentle but lively, good length. Not very distinctive. Good but not great Latour.

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Flight 7 (2 Notes)

  • 1983 Château Climens 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    Lots of bottle variation with this wine. This one has a very deep colour, notes of barley sugar and caramel, rich and crusty, not as fresh, elegant and vibrant as the bottle tasted in 2011 in Leiden. A very good drink, but seems fully developed.

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  • 1976 Ferdinand Pieroth Mönchhofer Beerenauslese 92 Points

    Austria, Burgenland

    Pristine appearance, level < 1 cm below the cork. A blend of Traminer, Ruländer and Neuburger. Amber colour; rich and honeyed, juicy and refreshing, flowers and ripe fruit, no lack of acidity even after almost 40 years, delicious and balanced, intense and elegant, touch of caramel; good length. These old Pieroth wines can be marvellous, yet they are completely overlooked; at auction I paid € 6 per bottle for a mixed case of the stuff...

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