After WWS, KEVIN & KELLY IN BURGUNDY – FAIVELEY, BOUZEREAU, MERME, REMOISSENET, DUJAC & COMTE LIGER-BELAIR
Burgundy
Tasted Monday, November 11, 2013 - Thursday, November 14, 2013 by dcwino with 2,714 views
Introduction
We arrived at Dijon early in the morning via night train from Milan. Due to my work related complication, we weren’t sure whether we can make this part of the trip and we had only one producer visit which was set in advance by Kelly and a visit to Taransaud cooperage’s beaune facility. We picked up our rental and headed to Chateau de Gilly in Gilly. Our rooms weren’t ready so despite being tired and nasty, we headed to Beaune to grab breakfast. We headed to a local hangout in the plaza. Just a simple croissant and a slice of baguette but boy those were good. Since this was a national holiday, we assumed that we will have no visits. Oh well, we only had three days and only one appointment.
Flight 1 - Visit to Faiveley (28 Notes)
Kelly contacted Bernard Hervet, the managing director at Faiveley hoping that he can see us on Tuesday or Wednesday. To our surprise, Bernard contacted us and invited us to stop by at 10:30. We were extremely happy but we didn’t quite expect the comprehensive tasting that he put together for us. We tasted through almost all of his 2012s except the Musigny and amoureuse with bungs that had locks. This was extremely educational as all the wines displayed unique expression of terroirs.
Bernard’s method of picking day is quite interesting, he picks the GCs two days before when he thinks they are ready and he pick his not so good terroirs two days after when he thinks they are ready. Perhaps this is why the 12s at Faiveley are extremely impressive as they are fresh, elegant and pure without losing the concentration and the fruit intensity. They seem to beautifully express the terroirs. Even in the 11s, I didn’t notice much the green meanie except in the 11 Corton Charlemagne.
We were also able to taste the 13 barrel samples of Rodin, CDB and Amoureuse. These were quite silky yet I also noticed some green notes. I have almost no experience tasting wines this young so I'll reserve my judgment.
Flight 2 - Michel Bouzereau (13 Notes)
Moritz, a proprietor of Podere Il Carnasciale, was traveled to Paris from Milan the day before and took a train to Vougeot to rejoin us. We drove to Beaune to visit Bernard’s wine shop which has an impressive selection of Burgundy. It was getting late and the only option for lunch was at brasserie le carnot. This is a kid friendly restaurant at the center of beaune. The food is decent but nothing to brag about. We order a bottle of Beaujolais that went really well with the dishes. Afterward, we drove to puligny montrachet and walk around the grand cru montrachet vineyards.
Moritz was able to contact his old friend Jean Baptiste and he invited us to dinner at his house. We were warmly received by Jean Baptiste. We first tasted through all of his 12 whites then had a great dinner prepared by his love wife with three incredible meursaults as well as a couple reds. I thought I knew white Burgundy but I didn't know that Jean Baptiste is making the incredible wines. I highly recommend the wines.
Flight 3 - Lunch at Ma Cuisine (2 Notes)
Our first appointment was at Taransaud cooperage’s beaune facility which is immaculately clean. They installed a high tech air filtration system and there is no dust. It was fascinating to see how the barrels were made. I don’t often think about it but the barrel affects significantly how the wine turns out.
We then headed to Ma Cuisine. The place hasn’t changed much over the past fifteen years. Both Pierre and Fabienne were there with only one help for the lunch. The menu in general is very reasonable and the fixed lunch special is a truly great value. My starter, egg with copious black truffle was quite decadent and delicious. I always seem to order a small roasted chicken with baked fingering potatoes as it never disappoints. Our wines were not terribly expressive, apparently it was a leaf day.
Flight 4 - Taupenot Merme (11 Notes)
Kelly set up an appointment at Masion Ilan. Unfortunately when we arrived, Ray had a family duty and had to reschedule our appointment.
Our next visit was at Domaine Taupenot Merme. I first met Romain, the proprietor of the Domaine during the fifth edition of World Wine Symposium. He poured a few wines and I was really impressed. I was particularly impressed by his Mazoyères which displayed complex fruit expression and beautifully balance palate.
Romain is a soft spoken man but his passion for making great wine can be clearly felt. He kindly opened 08, 09, 11 and 12 Mazoyeres and they all closely resembled each other and they were all quite impressive minus the 11 which displayed GM. I plan to source Romain’s wine.
Flight 5 - Dinner at Jean-Francois's house (4 Notes)
This trip is turning out so well. We had a plan to have a dinner in Dijon. Moritz contacted his friend Jean-Francois Mouchonnat who is the proprietor of Mouchonnat which deals with some of the top names of Burgundy. We stopped by at his office and checked out his warehouse which had nice stock of great Burgundies that were palletized and ready to be exported. All of sudden, his wife asked if we want to come to their home to eat bresse chicken. Who are we to refuse!
We freshened up and headed to the house in haut cotes de nuits. It was dark but his house was beautifully situated overlooking a Bourgogne vineyard. Lovely place with a big fire place. Jean Francois generously opened four wines, all blind to have some fun.
Flight 6 - Visit to Remoissenet (22 Notes)
Our first visit was at Remoissenet. I contacted Pierre on the 10th via Facebook. Pierre was back home but kindly arrange a visit with Bernard Repolt. We arrived at10 and greeted by Bernard aka Bernie. During the night before, Jean Francois spoke very highly of Bernie. He is a straight shooter with vast knowledge of everything Burgundy who has a bit of dark humor. It was so much fun to taste wines with him. He informed us that Remoissenet tends to pick late. He also mentioned that they will pay for the expected yield but will work with the growers to produce the top quality grapes at lower yield. Remoissenet also often discard 25% of the grapes when they arrive at the winery. It was interesting to note that typical Remoissenet wines were riper and fuller than the Faivelely’s. We didn't get to taste the 11s.
Flight 7 - Lunch at Restaurant Simon (1 Note)
We originally planned to visit Maison Ilan after Remoissenet but Ray emailed us to change the schedule to 3 pm. Unfortunately we had a tight schedule and had a train to catch at 6 pm from Dijon.
Moritz’s brother in law recommend Restaurant Simon in Gilly. He mentioned that two Chinese guys dined there and racked up a huge bill by drinking a couple bottles of DRCs. The restaurant was classic modern and very spacious. When we got the wine list, we realized that we would not be drinking the same wine as the Chinese guys. However, the fixed menu for lunch at 18 euros was a screaming bargain and I highly recommend.
jambon persille looked great, my escargot was quite tasty. My chicken dish in Époisses sauce was nice. Moritz got beef cheeks which was incredibly tender and beautifully flavored. We also got deserts, all for 18 euros.
Flight 8 - Visit to Dujac (16 Notes)
Another last minute contact on the 10th. I have never met Jeremy in person and didn’t expect we will get a response. I was ecstatic when Jeremy offered to let us visit. Jeremy informed us that his lovely wife Diana will receive us. The tasting was conducted at the cellar which was quite cold which caused the fruits to be suppressed a bit. Perhaps my rating could have been a point or two higher. The 12s are Dujac is very fresh and energetic, and displays nice tension. At the end of the tasting, Jeremy greeted us. He was holding a couple packs of pata negra. He proudly showed a picture of a monster size pig that he just slaughtered. It was indeed gigantic.
Flight 9 - Visit to Comte Liger-Belair (13 Notes)
We requested five visits last minute and we incredibly were kindly received by all. The last visit was Louis Michel at Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair. Louis Michel was out of town and we were able to finally connect on the 12th. I was aware that it was a busy HdB week and our chance of getting an appointment was very slim. Luckily Louis Michel had an opening at 4 PM. Since our train was leaving for Paris from Dijon at 6 pm, I informed him that we may have to leave around 4:45. BTW, no 11s were tasted.
We arrived at the domaine after our great visit to Dujac. We were greeted by Louis Michel. A Singaporean restaurateur hasn’t arrived yet and Louis Michel proudly explained his family heritage. It was fascinating that the family once owned monopole of La Tache and other significant vineyards. When the guest arrived, we were proceeded to the cellar. Louis Michel thoughtfully and efficiently conducted the tasting to accommodate our train schedule. He perfectly finished the tasting at 4:45 and even told us that we need to go. It was a perfect way to end the visit to Burgundy.
Flight 10 - Dinner at Le Sergent Recruteur (3 Notes)
No matter how short the visit is, it is nice to be in Paris. After a quick show, Kelly and I walked towards to Île Saint Louis. Moritz made a reservation at Le Sergent Recruteur which was a bit fancier as I was expecting Bistro Paul Bert. Strangely the dishes, except a raw sardine, reminded me my lunch long time ago at L’Arpege, emphasis on best ingredients that are simply prepared to accentuate the flavor. We were joined by Moritz’s lovely wife. We talk a lot and we were the last table. We each got an eau de vie that burnt/cleansed the palate. Later, we found out they were 20 plus euros per shot. This was the perfect way to end the trip, reacquainting with old friends and meeting new friends.
Closing
I must thank Bernard, Jean-Baptiste, Romain, Jean Francois, Pierre, Jeremy and Diana and Louis Michel for making the trip so much more than what we anticipated. There is no place like Burgundy for me.
2011 Faiveley Chambolle-Musigny 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
(11/11/2013)
Pretty forward red fruits, raspberry, flower and earth. Airy impression of Chambolle. Medium concentration. No need to wait.
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2011 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
(11/11/2013)
Bright red and black fruits, flowers, cream and earth. A bit more weight and complexity than Chambolle. Very clear note of Gevrey. Quite approachable.
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2011 Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
(11/11/2013)
Noticeably deeper tone and denser but more elegant and complex compare to the cazetiers. Beautiful floral note, sweet red and black fruits, raspberries, cherries and blackberries, a touch of licorice and allspice and tree bark. Quite open and enjoyable but will age.
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2012 Faiveley Mercurey 1er Cru Clos des Myglands 89 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Mercurey 1er Cru
(11/11/2013)
Warm and round impression, strawberry, strawberry jam and mineral. Medium concentration, sweet jammy fruits and noticeable presence of mineral. Quite enjoyable.
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2012 Faiveley Beaune 1er Cru Clos de l'Ecu 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
(11/11/2013)
Very earthy nose, cherries, mineral and mushroom. Medium concentration and noticeable tannins that are not dry. A bit angular.
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2012 Faiveley Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
(11/11/2013)
Fresh red fruits, white pepper which indicates cold growing season and late picking according to Bernard, a hint of oak and earth. Very broad palate, good concentration and length. Solid wine with good concentration.
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2012 Faiveley Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Chaignots 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru
(11/11/2013)
A hint of exotic spices, dark fruits, blackberries and a hint of earth. Very structured wine with noticeable tannins. This will need at least ten years.
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2012 Faiveley Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru
(11/11/2013)
First bottle sample was a bit tired and Bernard agreed and kindly provided a barrel sample. Blue fruits, lavender and mushroom. Medium concentration and surprisingly pretty, considering this being a NSG. My impression is that NSG’s expression can vary significantly based on the plot location.
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2012 Faiveley Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns Flawed
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
(11/11/2013)
Red fruits and jammy but a bit dull. Bernard could not locate the barrels quickly so we moved on. This seems like a very good wine.
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2012 Faiveley Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
(11/11/2013)
Pretty, delicate, lovely raspberry fruits, caramel, a hint of mushrooms and sweet spices. Elegant and decadent wine. Should be drinking well without shutting down. Very pure, clean and delicious.
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2012 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
(11/11/2013)
Mostly cool blue fruits with a hint of strawberry, earth, pine needles and a hint of black truffle. Good concentration and noticeable tannins. A nice example of 1er crus GC, nice complex flavor profile. This will need time to develop.
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2012 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos des Issarts 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
(11/11/2013)
Beautiful floral note, sweet raspberry fruits and nice spicy note that lifts the overall impression. Elegant airy palate like a grand cru and also noticeable structure. Apparently this plot is near ruchottes chambertin plot and has the same soil type as chevalier montrachet. Bernard commented that he would love to plan Chardonnay. Very nice wine.
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2012 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers Flawed
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
(11/11/2013)
Another wine that we were unable to retaste. My favorite Gevrey 1er crus. Need to buy a few based on the other 12s from Faiveley.
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2012 Faiveley Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru
(11/11/2013)
Lavender, blue fruits and rare steak. Excellent concentration and noticeable tannins. This is earthy and masculine and will need time for tannins to integrate. Very les saint geroges.
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2012 Faiveley Echezeaux 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
(11/11/2013)
Vineyard close to Chambolle and it shows. Pretty elegant nose displaying flowers, bright red fruits, raspberry, a hint of sesame and mushroom. Airy and elegant palate. Very pretty and pure wine.
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2012 Faiveley Clos Vougeot 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
(11/11/2013)
Fresh black fruits and earth. Rich sweet palate, excellent concentration, round and silky tannins. It will need at least ten years of cellaring.
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2012 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
(11/11/2013)
Red and black fruits, according to Bernard, this vineyard shows grenadine which I can see, white pepper, exotic spices and earth. Excellent concentration, round and sweet palate with nicely integrated tannins. This is a big wine with earthiness and sweet fruits.
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2012 Faiveley Mazis-Chambertin 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
(11/11/2013)
Black fruits, blackberry, cassis, mocha and a hint of licorice. Exceptional concentration, big scale, silky palates and sweet tannins. Another big scale GC chambertin. This seems to show riper and sweeter fruits via mocha and licorice. A hedonistic wine.
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2012 Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 97 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
(11/11/2013)
We were able to taste to samples.
Taransaud T5 – Opulent red and black fruits, blackberry jam, coffee and truffle. Sensual silky palate, airy and tannins are not noticeable. Expressive, exotic and complex. Already quite hedonistic. 97pts
Francois Freres – More floral and fresher, more elegant and delicate with red fruits. No roasted impression. Airy and fresh palate, long seamless finish. 96 pts
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2012 Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Les Ouvrées Rodin 99 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
(11/11/2013)
We were once again able to taste two samples.
Francois Freres – seasoned for four years. I was expecting the fresh fruit impression like the Clos de Beze in the same barrel but not so. Much richer, intense black fruits, jammy black raspberry, sesame and a hint of black truffle. This wine flirts with perfection. 99 pts.
Taransaud T5 – This is a sexy beast. The nose is not unlike the Chambertin Clos de Beze from the same barrel but more intense. Incredible richness, extremely silky palate and the finish that seamlessly resonates. 98 pts.
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2012 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley 96 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
(11/11/2013)
Intense fresh red fruits, strawberries, red cherries, wild flowers and earth. Big scale wine, intensely sweet and earthy, and round without any harshness. This is not unlike the 10. Vin de garde but will not shutdown hard with generous fruits.
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2012 Faiveley Clos Saint-Denis 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru
(11/11/2013)
Negotiant bottling, intense raspberry note, a bit more linear and restricted compare to the CDR. Excellent concentration and nicely integrated tannins. This will need time.
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2012 Faiveley Clos de la Roche 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
(11/11/2013)
Darker fruit expression than the CSD, blackberries, a hint of licorice and sweet spices. Excellent concentration, silky palate and long finish. Lovely wine.
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2012 Faiveley Grands-Echezeaux 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
(11/11/2013)
Big contrast to the Echezeaux as this is much bigger and riper. Blue and black fruits, a hint of licorice, toasted oak and mushroom. Sweet ripe palate impression and big structure. This will improve for a long time. Impressive.
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2011 Faiveley Meursault 1er Cru Blagny 89 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
(11/11/2013)
Very ripe style, lemon curd and some oak. Good restaurant wine.
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2011 Faiveley Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 97 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
(11/11/2013)
Extremely mineral nose, like licking wet stone, also quite salty, bright lemon fruits, a hint of pear, honey, lilac and a touch of oak. Exceptional concentration, extremely fresh and intense fruit expression and incredibly long finish. This wine reminded Bernard how the great GC montrachets were 30 years ago. We took this bottle to the dinner at Domaine Michel Bouzereau and it didn't show any green where the Corton Charlie did.
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2011 Faiveley Bâtard-Montrachet 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
(11/11/2013)
White fruits, pear, white pepper, seashell and white flower. More masculine, excellent concentration and bright acidity. I find the wine not as precise and not as mineral. A classic batard.
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2011 Faiveley Corton-Charlemagne 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
(11/11/2013)
Flint a la corton, pear and white peach, lemon zest, granny smith and earth. Very precise with bright acidity, excellent concentration and freshness. We took this bottle to the dinner at Domaine Michel Bouzereau and it started to show a hint of pyrazine aka GM.
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