Belated Birthday Dinner

The 'kids' (Jaimie, Patrick and Ashe) arranged a special birthday dinner for Nancy me at the wonderful Table 6. The creative and deft Chef Carrie Shore allowed me to bring in some wine as 'educational tools' for her staff. The staff were terrific and really didn't need the education, but the sharing definitely added to the enjoyment of the evening.

• 1996 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut 94 Points

  France, Champagne

  4 years later this is still fresh and fantastic. Fine mousse. Golden yellow. Brioche, green apples, toasted nuts, brassy stone on nose, palate and aftertaste. Citrus has pulled back some, but orchard fruit is still fresh and there in spades. Incredible balance, especially as the palate feels quite rich. Quick build on the palate of acidity and fruit every bit as much present now. A wonderful way to start the evening.

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• 2002 Didier Dagueneau Silex 95 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé

  5 years since last noted. Color still pale yellow. The fruit profile on the nose and palate have moved away from the tropical and pitted fruits noted then to a much more SB profile of citrus and some white orchard fruit. Still with flinty mineral and floral/spice notes. Palate starts round and rich and seems to lighten incredibly by midpalate, becoming quite finesseful and texturally complex. Fit well with a range of 'apps' and Chef Shores and our somm were eager to share this one.

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• 1993 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Domaine Louis Jadot 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Decanted 20 minutes. Light reddish violet with some light orange edge. Nose is quite fresh, featuring cherries, a little pinot funk/mushroom and an interesting unique 'other' aroma that folks called fresh cucumber cut from a distance or watermelon. Whatever, it added a very nice dimension. Palate was velvety, with medium weight fruit that had plenty of just balancing flinty acidity by midpalate which followed to a finesseful finish. Tannins had no edges at all; just added a sense of power. Table's WOTN.

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• 1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  6 years since last note. Decanted 20 minutes and swirled. Reddish violet with only a little brick. Nose was very clean from the get go. Bright cherry fruit, compote, tobacco, garrique, asian spice. Palate blasts off with medium plus weighted expressive red fruit and tannins that, while softening, felt quite rustic compared to the elegant CSJ served just before. Amazigly balanced acidity with touch of mineral for a CNP. Plenty of flavor complexity and even a little textural as well. Perfect pairing for the lamb and shaved pork. Lots of life ahead.

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• 1988 Château Climens 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

  Noted previously in '06 and '07. Decanted due to 'plunged' cork. Beautiful deep carmel color in decanter, but golden in the glass. This was easily back to the 'wow' bottle enjoyed in '06. Somehow I believe this was richer and more expressive now as the fruit was both fresh and exhibiting fascinating secondary development while the sugary notes have become deeply complex, burnt and richer, almost (but not nearly) overpowering the acidity. Chef Shore prepared a special cheese plate and a dessert assortment for sharing and matching to this fantastic wine. It created a nice energy and excitement to cap off a great evening.

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Thanks to everyone for an evening to remember.