Again a very recent disgorgement, as evinced by the enthusiastic effervescence profusely pouring frothy foam from its clean container clad in white. A nice wine all the same, this time with citrus and cream to the fore, lively and seamless, an excellent way to start off Christmas 2013.
Impressive old gold, copper, salmon colour. This is very sexy and come-hither. Extremely rich nose, deep and enveloping, spices (cardamom), cocoa and candied fruit, fresh and yeasty, floral and playful; the palate is fun and fulfilling, rounded and rich, with distinct flavours of pink grapefruit but also impressively structured for the vintage; very good length.
The last of my old Solters. Disgorged by special request on 21 September 2010. Lovely colour, quite deep but correct for age; immediately attractive and open nose, hints of honey and fresh mushroom, ripe fruit that has become slighly candied, yeasty note, lively and mineral; on the palate the wine is remarkably fresh, dry and energetic, with a yeasty character from the 16 years on the lees, vibrant acidity and mousse; good length. Remarkably fresh and youthful for age and a lovely and quite unique drink.
Like the Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste.-Catherine 2004 tasted in October, this now comes across as quite mature - verging on tired. Honeyed, earthy, attractive enough but a bit soft on the palate and with a lack of drive and length. It seems like the Weinbach 2004's are running out of steam much quicker than I had anticipated only three years ago. Drink up.
Finely woven and precise nose with wonderfully complex aromatics, notes of citrus, minerals, flowers, tropical fruit, hint of honey; on the palate the wine is rounded, quite big but not nearly as energetic, intense and tightly wound as the recently tasted G-Max 2006, quite a ripe style, acidity may be slightly too low for long ageing, but it may also just be covered in flesh; very good length. Holds up well over two days in the half-empty bottle.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Pristine bottle, perfectly fresh, holds up well over two days in the half-empty bottle. In this bottle the nose still retains the pungent, almost Sauvignon Blanc-like aromas (pyrazines?) noted before; the palate displays medium weight (light for the AOC), good oak integration and sufficient energy and freshness, nice flavour intensity; very good length. Good enough as a white Burgundy, ever so slightly disappointing as a Montrachet. Let's hope that this will eventually fulfill the promise of its youth in a few years' time.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Pristine bottle, rich colour but no (prem)ox, as fresh as a daisy. Purchased on the basis of a jubilant tasting note from Jancis in 2009. The nose is starting to develop the predicted richness (even more so after several hours in the decanter); the palate has good weight and stuffing but is still tight and minerally (quite exceptional for the vintage) with oak in check. Lovely flavour intensity and length. Needs more time; it should have the energy to age well.
This continues to be extremely attractive, clean, transparent, pure and precise, well-defined, still youthful, a lighter wine of character and individuality, good length.
The richest of the three vintages tasted today, with a wealth of fruit but still that inimitable, elegant and feminine but generous Du Tertre character; modern style but no lack of finesse. It does not look like this will be closing down at any point in its lifetime, so drink with pleasure until 2020+.
Identical to my previous note, but I am inclined to add another point for its balance and energy. Tighter style than the 2005 at present, but recommended for finesse and harmony. Will be even better in one or two years' time.
Bottled 2013. Very evolved, almost Madeira-like style; with its tangy acidity, woodsy bitters and peachy fruit I might easily have mistaken this for a Bual Madeira; topnotes of vanilla and spice, intense and uncompromising, excellent intensity and length. A very impressive powerhouse of a wine but not subtle or charming. An acquired taste.
Very similar to my previous note. The nose is veering in the direction of Grande Champagne Cognac; the palate is distinctly Madeira-like. A few days in the decanter only seem to add complexity and character. The sweetness remains, but it is less caramelly and monolithic.
This is billed as something very special from the Mountains of Malaga - with a price to match: € 26 / 500ml is not cheap. Purchased this quite a few years ago and I guess I waited too long (?). Sweet, with tropical fruits, nice minerality but otherwise neither here nor there.
A very rare thing, a late harvest Condrieu. Very impressive it is too, with its deep amber-golden colour, lashings of botrytis and honey, flowers, pine and the juiciest ripe pear, peach and apricot, very sweet but no lack of acidity, lovely balance, powerful but elegant, intense and long. Great stuff, has aged beautifully.
NV Pol Roger Champagne Brut Réserve 90 Points
France, Champagne
Again a very recent disgorgement, as evinced by the enthusiastic effervescence profusely pouring frothy foam from its clean container clad in white. A nice wine all the same, this time with citrus and cream to the fore, lively and seamless, an excellent way to start off Christmas 2013.
Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue
2000 Dom Pérignon Champagne Rosé 94 Points
France, Champagne
Impressive old gold, copper, salmon colour. This is very sexy and come-hither. Extremely rich nose, deep and enveloping, spices (cardamom), cocoa and candied fruit, fresh and yeasty, floral and playful; the palate is fun and fulfilling, rounded and rich, with distinct flavours of pink grapefruit but also impressively structured for the vintage; very good length.
Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue
1994 Sekthaus Solter Riesling Brut Sekt Reserve 91 Points
Germany, Rheingau
The last of my old Solters. Disgorged by special request on 21 September 2010. Lovely colour, quite deep but correct for age; immediately attractive and open nose, hints of honey and fresh mushroom, ripe fruit that has become slighly candied, yeasty note, lively and mineral; on the palate the wine is remarkably fresh, dry and energetic, with a yeasty character from the 16 years on the lees, vibrant acidity and mousse; good length. Remarkably fresh and youthful for age and a lovely and quite unique drink.
Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue
2004 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine L'Inédit! 90 Points
France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
Like the Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste.-Catherine 2004 tasted in October, this now comes across as quite mature - verging on tired. Honeyed, earthy, attractive enough but a bit soft on the palate and with a lack of drive and length. It seems like the Weinbach 2004's are running out of steam much quicker than I had anticipated only three years ago. Drink up.
Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue
2006 Weingut Keller Abts E®.de Riesling Großes Gewächs 93 Points
Germany, Rheinhessen
Finely woven and precise nose with wonderfully complex aromatics, notes of citrus, minerals, flowers, tropical fruit, hint of honey; on the palate the wine is rounded, quite big but not nearly as energetic, intense and tightly wound as the recently tasted G-Max 2006, quite a ripe style, acidity may be slightly too low for long ageing, but it may also just be covered in flesh; very good length. Holds up well over two days in the half-empty bottle.
Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue
1999 Michel Coutoux Montrachet 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Pristine bottle, perfectly fresh, holds up well over two days in the half-empty bottle. In this bottle the nose still retains the pungent, almost Sauvignon Blanc-like aromas (pyrazines?) noted before; the palate displays medium weight (light for the AOC), good oak integration and sufficient energy and freshness, nice flavour intensity; very good length. Good enough as a white Burgundy, ever so slightly disappointing as a Montrachet. Let's hope that this will eventually fulfill the promise of its youth in a few years' time.
Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue
2005 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Pristine bottle, rich colour but no (prem)ox, as fresh as a daisy. Purchased on the basis of a jubilant tasting note from Jancis in 2009. The nose is starting to develop the predicted richness (even more so after several hours in the decanter); the palate has good weight and stuffing but is still tight and minerally (quite exceptional for the vintage) with oak in check. Lovely flavour intensity and length. Needs more time; it should have the energy to age well.
Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue
2004 Château du Tertre 91 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
This continues to be extremely attractive, clean, transparent, pure and precise, well-defined, still youthful, a lighter wine of character and individuality, good length.
Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue
2005 Château du Tertre 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
The richest of the three vintages tasted today, with a wealth of fruit but still that inimitable, elegant and feminine but generous Du Tertre character; modern style but no lack of finesse. It does not look like this will be closing down at any point in its lifetime, so drink with pleasure until 2020+.
Post a Comment / 2 people found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue
2006 Château du Tertre 91 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Identical to my previous note, but I am inclined to add another point for its balance and energy. Tighter style than the 2005 at present, but recommended for finesse and harmony. Will be even better in one or two years' time.
Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue
NV Ramos Pinto Porto 30 Year Old Tawny 93 Points
Portugal, Douro, Porto
Bottled 2013. Very evolved, almost Madeira-like style; with its tangy acidity, woodsy bitters and peachy fruit I might easily have mistaken this for a Bual Madeira; topnotes of vanilla and spice, intense and uncompromising, excellent intensity and length. A very impressive powerhouse of a wine but not subtle or charming. An acquired taste.
Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue
1967 Nicolau de Almeida Porto Vintage 91 Points
Portugal, Douro, Porto
Very similar to my previous note. The nose is veering in the direction of Grande Champagne Cognac; the palate is distinctly Madeira-like. A few days in the decanter only seem to add complexity and character. The sweetness remains, but it is less caramelly and monolithic.
Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue
2001 Molino Real Málaga Mountain Wine 88 Points
Spain, Andalucía, Málaga
This is billed as something very special from the Mountains of Malaga - with a price to match: € 26 / 500ml is not cheap. Purchased this quite a few years ago and I guess I waited too long (?). Sweet, with tropical fruits, nice minerality but otherwise neither here nor there.
Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue
2001 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Ayguets 94 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
A very rare thing, a late harvest Condrieu. Very impressive it is too, with its deep amber-golden colour, lashings of botrytis and honey, flowers, pine and the juiciest ripe pear, peach and apricot, very sweet but no lack of acidity, lovely balance, powerful but elegant, intense and long. Great stuff, has aged beautifully.
Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue