New Year's Day Long Italian Lunch

Eketahuna, New Zealand
Tasted Wednesday, January 1, 2014 by Marc with 605 views

Introduction

Cured fish with citrus, horseradish and fennel
Salad of tomato, white anchovy, basil and onion
Grilled peach, warm mozzarella and wild duck bresaola
Pappardelle with zucchini
Grape stuffed quail in vine leaf with new potatoes and green beans
Cheeses
Chocolate. coffee and hazelnut tartufo
Sweet treats with coffee and teas

Flight 1 (13 Notes)

The Leoville las Cases deserves a bit of a back story as 15 years ago I opened the 1986 Chateau Montelena blind to a good friend and he picked it as the 1986 Leoville Las Cases - much to his consternation. He patiently bided his time and decided that now was the time to spring the bordeaux on me, blind. I went for California - which was a sort of vinous cosmic payback, which I imagine made the (great) wine all the sweeter to his palate

  • 2006 Ferrari Perlé 88 Points

    Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Trentino, Trento

    Big bead - very toasty biscuity nose - rich flavour good length and quite
    crisp - lots of character although the texture is slightly coarser
    than champagne - the high acid is very racy. Serious bubbly. This is very
    refreshing - not heavy but has enough weight and complexity to add
    interest. Blanc de blancs.

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  • 2006 Rudi Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Ried Kollmütz 91 Points

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

    Clear straw yellow. Herbal lanolin notes. Great presence. Dry extract. Great length. Outstanding young wine with
    minerality. Phenols hide the 15% alcohol - impressive wine.

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  • 2003 Château Carbonnieux Blanc 86 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Light yellow gold - resin top notes, lots of age
    - very cardamom and warm spice - sweet entry - nutmeg notes - nice
    length. Lanolin semolion texture. Very semmilon quite good. Aging
    well. Needs a bit if acid. Dulled by sulfur.

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  • 1999 Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot 96 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

    Perfect yellow gold clear. Hazelnut
    nose- beeswax peaches and a touch of wet fur. Great wine. Brilliant mouthfeel -
    extraordinary presence and authority - great texture very long and
    involved. Huge length - the avid and mineral balance is not to be
    believed. Great wine. This is a point and there is not a hint of premox. Sweet
    entry , savory and the essence if mealy mid palate. 30 second plus
    finish.

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  • 1999 Domaine de Montille Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Still very unevolved, tight slate, high toned meal - I the mouth, very tight and powerful, fennel
    seed, fruit driven - compared to the Jadot corton tasted just before. Similar length and power
    but less evolved and more fruit driven. Completely mineral in
    expression. Great wine - austere and stony.

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  • 1998 Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore 77 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore

    Purple ruby lightish. Bright tart cherry and tar - very tannic and acid - very tannic finish - out if balance - hard as nails.

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  • 2000 Michele Satta Bolgheri Piastraia 86 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

    Warm and sweet - tannic but in balance - far better wine than the Grattamacco tasted at the same time - lovely sweet core - powerful but a bit hard
    ultimately.

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  • 1999 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Grèves Vigne de L'Enfant Jesus 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

    Purple ruby with some age. Smoke. Spicy and bright nose - leanish, bright acid cherry some mineral and
    herbal. V good presence - outstanding. This always will be tannic but I find this delicious and involving. It certainly opened beautifully.

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  • 1986 Château Léoville Las Cases 97 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Closed nose- sauve texture - so refined- quite young -
    oak totally subsumed into the fruit. Perfect today but this gives the
    impression of being timeless. Slightly austere but the finish is all
    class. This is great. This is the absolute essence of cassis. Iron ore. Will it make
    100? Very tannic and dry at end - betraying its vintage character.An easy 97 points with lots of upward potential.In a cold cellar this should outlive most of us.

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  • 1990 Penfolds Bin 920 93 Points

    Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra

    Milky nose. Sour American oak. Beautiful tannic structure. Lively acid and vibrant and long in the mouth. Just a baby. I think this is great wine. Spicy brilliant nose and palate that keeps offering complexities. Slightly rough in the mouth after the las cases 1986 tasted at the same time. Typical Australian eucalyptus nose. Needs time - still young. Slightly coarse in the finish.

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  • 1990 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Campolongo di Torbe 94 Points

    Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

    Volitile - age is apparent - this has a beautifully modulated look about it. Tobacco and
    cut pear top notes, which for me are always a clear indication of Amarone. Sweet entry, spicy, ripe and vibrant mouthfeel with a
    warm finish I particularly like the hint of pickled walnuts at the end. Excellent.

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  • 2003 Carrick Pinot Noir 86 Points

    New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Bannockburn

    (under stelvin) Spice, cherry, oak, structure - a very new world
    pinot - Central otago in style - a bit reductive and slightly bitter
    on the finish but very nice.

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  • 2003 Giant Steps Pinot Noir Sexton Dijon Clones 85 Points

    Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley

    Dijon clones 114+115 (under stelvin) Gamey nose with
    buttermilk notes. This is serious with a worked toasted, almost charred oak nose .
    Slightly bitter finish.

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