Austrian Riesling with AuZone
AuZone, Stockholm
Tasted Thursday, November 21, 2013 by Vintomas with 607 views
Introduction
A main flight of eight wines served blind, plus three other wines. Two wine of the main flight turned out to be something else than Austrian Riesling, one a non-Austrian (German) and one a non-Riesling (Grüner Veltliner).
1998 Freie Weingärtner Wachau / Domäne Wachau Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg 83 Points
Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
Golden yellow colour. Typical mature note with honey, yellow apples with some baked character, some almond, undergrowth and that age note that the Germans term “firne”. (It’s rather similar to the nose of an old rather than just mature off-dry German Riesling, and then I’m thinking of 25+ years.) Clearly dry palate, a bit “pointy” citrus note with grapefruit including rather noticeable bitterness, high acidity, a bit short aftertaste. Exciting nose but somewhat short and ungenerous palate, will not gain from further cellaring. 83 p
This bottle was worse than the one I had tried some weeks earlier. It was newly purchased, as we now and then see releases of older wines from Domäne Wachau on the Swedish market. I have an impression that these older bottles often show significant bottle variation, despite being sourced directly from the producer.
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2001 Winzer Krems Riesling Spätlese halbtrocken Pfarrleithen 90 Points
Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal
Medium yellow. Nose with ripe yellow fruit, some citrus, a hint of tropical fruit, some honey, rather pronounced smoke notes, some petroleum. Palate with some residual sugar but still rather dry, rather oily and generous mouthfeel, citrus, high acidity, just a hint of bitterness, and a citrus-dominated aftertaste. A powerful and citrus-fresh profile with some development. Drinks well now but can be cellared more. 90 p
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2007 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Loibner Oberhauser 88 Points
Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
Medium yellow colour. Nose with ripe fruit, citrus, a tiny hint of smoke, hints of flowers, rather pronounced muscat note with fresh grapes. The palate is quite dry, with apple, a hint of bitterness, some oiliness with a stony mineral note and medium acidity. Good but a bit odd. 88 p
Here I and several others were quite convinced that we had a Muscat wine, a Gelber Muskateller, in our glass when we tasted it blind. The reason was that we found both a typical Muscat note in the nose and a lower acidity on the palate, and it deviated from the other wines in this Riesling tasting.
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2007 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Riesling Lyra Zöbinger Heiligenstein 89 Points
Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
Light yellow colour. Nose with citrus, and specifically lemon, apple, stony mineral note, some petroleum, a hint of flowers; an elegant nose. Dry on the palate, a hint of bitterness, citrus, stony mineral note, high acidity, rather long and grapefruit-dominated aftertaste. 89 p
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2008 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Kammerner Renner 88 Points
Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
Rather golden yellow colour. Nose with ripe yellow fruit, citrus including zest, tropical fruit, a hint of smoke, some flowery notes, possibly also some botrytis. Palate with good concentration, ripe citrus, some tropical fruit, medium+ acidity, slightly oily and with a hint of bitterness. Foody, but could be more fresh, and the bitterness reduces the score somewhat. 88 p
Possibly, this wine received a slightly unfair treatment since I had "my Riesling nose" switched on.
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2008 Prager Riesling Smaragd Ried Achleiten 90 Points
Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
Rather golden yellow colour. Nose with ripe fruit, citrus, some zest, slightly flowery, a tiny hint of herbaceous notes, noticeable botrytis; to me an Auslese-style nose. Palate with good concentration, citrus, stony mineral, a hint of bitterness, spice, and a high acidity. Foody, but I'd prefer slightly less less bitterness. 90 p.
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2009 Weingut Keller Riesling von der Fels 90 Points
Germany, Rheinhessen
Light yellow colour. Nose with citrus, apple, some elderflower, some mineral, rather elegant. The palate is dry with a fruity attack, citrus, good acidity and just a hint of bitterness. Fruity, young. 90 p.
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2009 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Reserve Gaisberg 90 Points
Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
Light yellow colour. Nose with citrus, some elderflower, slightly smoky mineral notes, elegance. The palate is dry, with mineral, citrus, high acidity, a hint of bitterness. Somewhat young, but shows fine elegance. 90+ p.
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