Memorable holiday dinner proves that Bordeaux matters

With all this talk of Bordeaux going out fashion because of the annoying price hikes in recent years, the "luxury item" talk from both traders and producers that can put regular customers off, the three last vintages not being "of the century" material, I was reminded last night (as if I needed a reminder) that Bordeaux merits its status as one of the truly great wine producing regions in the world. Over dinner with dear wine loving pals in Washington D.C. (we sometimes call ourselves the Washington Winos), the point was proven with superlative performances from 70s era Haut Brion, and 80s era Margaux and Montrose (including the 1990). Yes, these are "big guns": two first growths and one super second, but people who purchased them at the time realized something very special - at the time of purchase and over time. Yes, prices have gone up to absurd levels for these wines, but winemaking has improved in the last 10 (and 20) years so that the cru bourgeois of yesteryear offer real values for most wine lovers, or lovers of Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blends from the vast region that is Bordeaux. Sure, Bordeaux seems a bit less fashionable these days for all of the reasons in my first sentence, but - believe me - it will be back in fashion before you know it. Oh, yes, we also had superlative Champagne, with one exception because it was corked, but that was just bad luck. And the evening highlight was perhaps an exceptional pair of Burgundies - see below. Finally, we ended things with "stickies" and "sweeties": excellent vintage ports and Sauternes. And, yes, once again Bordeaux proved itself with a thoroughly exciting Chateau Climens 1988. Read on :-).

Many thanks to Ken Brown (1970 Haut Brion and ), Ken Barr (Jaboulet-Vercherre Chambertin 1969 and Climens 1988), Howard Cooper (Montrose 1990 and 1977 Taylor Fladgate), Paul Marquardt (Margaux 1989 and Krug 1985), Kevin Shin (Margaux 1983 and NV Moet & Chandon Saran Blanc), David Zimmerman (Haut Brion 1971 and Dom Perignon 1985) and Randy (JJ Confuron RSV 2002 and Hugelot Noellat RSV 2010).