Seeing stars at the Abbey in Hautvillers, just outside Epernay

A tasting of some lovely bubblies in situ. The view from the abbey – almost 400 meters overlooking Champagne vineyards – was breath-taking as Dom Pérignon oenologist Vincent Chaperon served six different vintages in what was once the abbey’s “scriptorium”, where some 5,000 works were printed. Chaperon, 38, comes from Pomerol. His family once owned Château Nenin, the second largest estate from the prestigious Bordeaux appellation. After studying agricultural engineering in Montpellier, he moved to Champagne and, since 2005, he has been chief oenologist for Dom Pérignon wine director Richard Geoffroy.

• 2004 Dom Pérignon Champagne 93 Points

  France, Champagne

  The 2004 has perhaps slightly more Chardonnay than the typical 50-50 blend with Pinot Noir. Tasted along with the 2003, I lean towards favoring the greater freshness and zing in the 2004, which seems to me to combine a bit of the richness of the 2000 vintage with some of the precise focus of the 2002 vintage. In a word: a classic Champagne from Dom Perignon and as such it should please many a bubbly palate!

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• 2003 Dom Pérignon Champagne 92 Points

  France, Champagne

  Better than I had expected. Served next to the 2004, it was noticeably darker. But not oxidized, stressed Dom Perignon oenologist Vincent Chaperon. Before the first fermentation, the juice as it came off the press had been oxidized for a few hours, so as to make it more resistant to oxidation once it was fermented, Chaperon explained. Hence the darker color. He explained that taking such an exceptional measure before fermentation strengthened the wine against oxidation.
  
  So this 2003 gave off more freshness than I thought it would have, as many commentators have been scratching their heads, asking why Dom Pérignon would bother to make Champagne from the torrid 2003 vintage. But the wine’s rich, yellow fruit aspect contributed to a pleasing mid palate, with subtle power due to the phenolic ripeness achieved. Atypically, it has a higher proportion of Pinot Noir (62%), given the greater success of that grape in that vintage.

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• 2003 Dom Pérignon Champagne Rosé 95 Points

  France, Champagne

  Rosés are released one year after the regular wines, to give the 20% or so added Pinot Noir wine the “right time to integrate”, Chaperon explained. In rare vintages, Dom Pérignon releases only rosé (1986) or no rosé and just regular (1999). The 2003 rosé is superb: the Pinot did very well in that vintage. Its flavors are distinct and memorable – rich in crystalline red fruit expressions, with a broad and seductive mid palate and enveloping full body that is never heavy handed, yet pleasingly pronounced, leading to a long finish marked by the Pinot Noir ripeness.

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• 2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne Rosé 93 Points

  France, Champagne

  Compared to the 2003, the 2002 proved tightly coiled, as if it were a cord for a trapeze artist, but with a more impressive finish, more linear, and I suspect time in bottle will reveal the 2002’s greatness. I would not bother opening one today, however. For now, the 2003 is more fun, tastier and deeper.

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• 1996 Dom Pérignon Champagne Oenothèque 97 Points

  France, Champagne

  Simply magnificent. I bought a six pack after tasting this, it was that good, offering everything anyone would want from great Champagne: vibrancy, tension, a panorama of aromas and flavors and a more intense brioche like creamy texture coming from the long contact with the lees in bottle. The bottle had been disgorged in 2008. It exuded fresh notes of grapefruit and lemon but with mocha, and superb precision and focus, with fine and vibrant bubbles balancing the creamy texture. You could almost drink it now, but it needs time in glass to soften its coiled up sensation, and would be better to save for a few years ideally.

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• 1969 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 100 Points

  France, Champagne

  What stole the show from the December 2013 tasting of Dom Perignon was the 1969 Oenotheque, disgorged in 2006. After 36 years in bottle, this wine displayed no oxidized notes. It released a pure truffle aroma when first opened, but then revealed vibrant citron notes – perhaps surprising for older Champagne. The mid palate, smooth and creamy, was marked yet again by brioche and other patisserie-like flavors before ending with espresso, chocolate and nougat on a very long finish that teases the taster. Almost as an afterthought, one notices the refined light yet persistent bubbles complementing the vinosity of the 1969, which was a warm vintage, Chaperon explained. Later enjoyed with freshly shucked oysters in a non descript Epernay cafe-restaurant, this made me fanciful about giving it "100 points" ...

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The point was well proven that fine Champagne can age very well indeed.