7 Tasmania Wineries Jan-14
Tasted Thursday, January 9, 2014 - Tuesday, January 14, 2014 by graemeg with 755 views
Introduction
The usual half dozen of my favourite wineries were on the radar this year, along with one newbie. It’s a measure of the ambitions of (and presumably the demand for) Tassie pinot that over the space of five years, nearly everyone’s non-reserve pinot has leapt in price by around 50%. Back in 08-09, there were a swag of decent pinots priced in the low $30s; Pooley, Chromy, Bay of Fires. These days, they’re all $48-$50. But the quality has been improving too.
Flight 1 - Pressing Matters (5 Notes)
A new visit for me, at the Riesling specialist in the Coal Valley. The four Rieslings are labelled using rough approximations of their residual sugar levels, hence the names R0, R9, R69, R139, and are basically European-inspired, relying on natural acidity and lower-than-typical alcohol levels to give a Tasmanian slant to the Germans style of riesling. They come from a small vineyard, irrigated, surrounding the cellar door in the Coal Valley. The grapes were planted earlier this century, followed a year or so later by pinot noir. Despite the warm day, these were all served around 15C or so. I bought some of the R0, R69 and R139, for which they generously knocked 10% off the prices below.
Flight 2 - Domaine A (6 Notes)
Imperious as ever, there were some repeat tastings for me here from last year, but other wines (like the 2011 Stoney pinot) which had been and gone since my last visit. The grapes going into the $35 Stoney Vineyard cabernet (blend) are reaching such a quality and age that it seems they’re likely to be destined for the new $55 ‘Petit a’ in-between wine, as the flagship has now spiraled up to the $120 mark. This suggests to me the quality of the regular Stoney release might slip (maybe starting in 2008, that being the first year of the new ‘second label’ offering. The pair of sauvignons tasted here today were the best I’ve ever had from the estate.
Flight 3 - Pooley (8 Notes)
More wine show trinkets – trophies, gold medals – for Pooley’s range of pinot, now expanded to three, with a new entry-level wine picking up the discards from the existing Coal Valley and Butcher’s Hill labels, which are now carrying price rises commensurate with their show records (and presumably consumer demand). I’m still pretty impressed with the cabernet-merlot too.
Flight 4 - Puddleduck (4 Notes)
Wines here continue to improve, with wines now being made on site by the proprietors, instead of the estate being at the mercy of contract winemakers, with the onerous requirement of having to deliver all the multi-clone grapes picked at once to the winery (at the best average ripeness level). This has done wonders for the pinot in particular, which is a world away from the weedy effort I tasted here nearly a decade ago. The tiny production of 1200-1500 cases is spread over 6-8 different varietal wines; available volumes are so small that all wines are sold either via on-premise or to the mailing list, there are no general retail or export sales.
Flight 5 - Josef Chromy (9 Notes)
All the regular releases were on tasting (but none of the ZDAR reserve wines). As ever, quality is good and prices are reasonable.
Flight 6 - Bay of Fires (10 Notes)
In the scorching heat, the non-air-conditioned tasting room at Bay of Fires was a bit of a trial. But the wines were served at around 20C, which didn’t really do the sparklings much favour. As in the past, the Bay of Fires aromatic labels are usually Tasmania-wide in their sourcing, with a lot of Derwent and Coal Valley fruit; the Tamar pinot and chardonnay is for the varietal wines and sparklings (which are receiving increased time on less, to their benefit). As befits a boutique brand of a major group, cellar door-prices here are well in excess of those asked by mainstream retailers.
Flight 7 - Delamere (9 Notes)
Things are on the move here; new plantings, new wines. A warm day; I really think sparkling wines are hugely improved by getting their temperatures down below 20C. The Delamere label is for estate fruit from the 6.5ha vineyard with its 25-yo vines; Naissante is for non-estate-sourced fruit, with the range now expanded to include a riesling and a (sold-out) fume blanc. For a small producer, the value for money here is outstanding (for the table wines, less so the fizz).
2012 Pressing Matters Riesling R0
Australia, Tasmania, Coal River
(1/9/2014)
{screwcap, 11%, A$33} Low/medium intensity nose of chalk and musk. Pure. The palate has a springwater quality, with gentle lime flavours and a softish and surprisingly furry texture. Lightbodied, bone-dry (obviously, as indicated by the ‘R0’) with a lovely even palate and a medium-length finish. Acid was unobtrusive enough that I didn’t make a particular note of it. Very good.
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2013 Pressing Matters Riesling R9
Australia, Tasmania, Coal River
(1/9/2014)
{screwcap, 10.4%, A$33} There’s a light lift of apricot to the aromas here; but it’s not much different to the R0 cuvee. The tiny amount of sugar adds weight, not sweetness. Similar musk and lime flavours to the R0. It’s a bit more rounded; this is light/medium-bodied, with medium acidity and another even palate of medium length. Very fine – Easy to see why it’s the most popular of the four cuvees.
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2010 Pressing Matters Riesling R69
Australia, Tasmania, Coal River
(1/9/2014)
{screwcap, 10%, A$33} Slightly developing nose of sweet oranges and musk. The palate is only really off-dry, not-quite-spatlese, but the definite sugar weight is easily balanced by zingy acidity. Lithe sweetness continues across an even palate; you don’t often find local off-dry rieslings with much presence beyond the tip of the tongue, but this one does it. Light/medium-body, medium-long finish. The style is always a challenge to match with food, but this is just pure and delicious by itself. The lowish alcohol confers great freshness and liveliness.
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2009 Pressing Matters Riesling R139
Australia, Tasmania, Coal River
(1/9/2014)
{375ml, screwcap, 9.5%} Developing, botrytis-free, medium-sweet, honey-scented wine of real charm. There are honey and sandalwood flavours, no oak use, and a smooth, sweetish but very clean finish of great purity. The medium acidity discreetly supports the whole show, but nothing sticks out. Again, all the tongue is attended to, the finish here is long and tantalizing, not a gloopy blockbuster. Immensely charming, with plenty of future left.
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2011 Pressing Matters Pinot Noir
Australia, Tasmania, Coal River
(1/9/2014)
{screwcap, 13.9%, A$44} Ever so slightly developing aromas of smoked cherry. The palate has some earthy flavours too, although it’s a bit dilute. Light-bodied, with low dusty tannins and a dry texture; despite it’s very low-key impression on the palate it is quite nicely balanced along the tongue, and concludes with medium length finish. Ought to age nicely for 8 or so years (guessing); you’d hope it develops a bit more dimension to its flavours.
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