Dinner at Bern's Steak House

Tracy and I were happened to be on separate business trips to Orlando at the same time, so we met our friends from Boca, the Plambecks, in Tampa. I wasn't sure that it was worth the 80+ mile (each way) trip, but it sure was. In fact, I am back in Orlando in a week, and I am going to try to get to Tampa one more time.

What an amazing meal. This might be the finest meal (experience) that I have ever had in a restaurant.

I had heard stories about the place (mostly the wine list), but I was not prepared for the whole experience.

First, the decor is a little startling. Let's just say that Carmela Soprano would love it. :)When you consider, however, that that has been the decor for nearly 50 years, it grows on you.

Second, the service was as fine as I have ever had. Our waiter, Al, had been there for 16 years. For someone to become a waiter there is a 1 year internship period. During that year, you must learn to do every job, from doing dishes, working at the farm, to finally waiting table. Al was attentive but never intrusive. He also answered our myriad of questions with grace and wit.

Third, the food was fabulous. To me Peter Luger's has been the hallmark restaurant steak but the strip steak I split with my wife last night was even better. They dry age their beef for 7-8 weeks, which makes the flavor very intense. Don't put any sauce or butter on it; the beef flavor is divine.

Fourth, the dessert room is unique. After dinner we were given a tour of the kitchen and the wine cellar, then escorted upstairs to the dessert room. Each booth is almost like a private room which was a real treat. My chocolate soufflé was only average, but the ambiance was worth the price. We were able to talk and slowly enjoy our wine (after the dessert) for well over an hour with no pressure to leave.

Finally, the wine list is like nothing I have seen. Yes, it is massive (over 1,000,000 bottles in inventory). Yes, it has all the big names from ancient vintages (1884 Margaux, etc.). The best part, however, was the storage and very reasonable prices. All wines with vintages in the last 30 or so years, were bought on release. The Inglenook we had would have been dead, I'm sure, from any other source, but it had not left the cellar in nearly 30 years.

They keep their cellar at an ice cold 50 degrees, which allows the glacial aging. I have to get back there to try some of the early 70s Zins, 60s Cal Cabs, etc. The big guns (Opus, Firsts, etc.) are expensive, but is you are willing to be adventurous, you can get a great wine for very little. The sommelier was terrific and suggested the Cote Rotie. Next time I will tell him what we like and let him choose.

While we waited for Chris, Suzanne, and Matthew to arrive we ordered some wines by the glass.

• 1991 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley 88 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley

  Ordered by the glass. This wine was served from a magnum. The nose showed forest floor and pine. The palate was fairly simple but still with solid fruit and powerful structure.

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They listed multiple cask numbers of this wine, so we had the sommelier choose.

• 1974 Inglenook Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Cask A-1 91 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Ordered from the list for $98. The nose was classic aged Cali cab, forest floor, crushed pine needles, bottle sweetness, and toasted coconut. The palate was fully integrated but still had solid fruit. Despite the age, it still had legs. Perhaps not the most complex wine of the night but truly an amazing experience.
  This wine has been in Bern's cellar, since they bought it on release.

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The sommelier picked this for us.

• 1983 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde 95 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Ordered from the list for $92. Parker give this one a mere 87 and says that it is dead. We must have had an extraordinary bottle then. It had everything I could want in an aged Cote Rotie. The nose had roasted meat, super ripe blackberries, and smoky qualities. The palate was balance but elegant. It showed depth, power, and exquisite balance. I loved the meatiness and sweetness. It perfectly complemented a Bern's grilled New York Strip. Has not moved since release.

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After our tour, we settled into the dessert room and looked through the dessert wine list. This list was larger than any complete wine list in Seattle.

• 1986 Château Rieussec 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Ordered from the list for $110. Only a Sauternes can make me love the smell of vinyl shower curtain. The nose had that and orange peel. The palate was smooth, well integrated, and a little simple. It is not as sweet as some vintages, but it was a terrific way to end the night.

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Chris and Suzanne brought their 5-year-old son Matthew, and though has was extremely well behaved, the restaurant could not have been more accommodating. As Al said, "We want him to come here on his own in 20-30 years."