Domaine de Chevalier Tasting with Adrien Bernard

An opportunity to taste 4 vintages of Domaine de Chevalier with Adrien Bernard, whose family owns the vineyard.

We tasted 3 reds (2004, 2007 and 2009) and one white (2003).

The reds were poured prior to the tasting session and allowed to breathe in the glass, while the white was chilled and poured just prior to tasting.

As advised by our host, the 2003 white was the last to be tasted, owing to the complexity and acidity which would drown out the nuances of the reds. We tasted in the following order: 2007 red, 2004 red, 2009 red, and finally the 2003 white.

• 2007 Domaine de Chevalier 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Beautiful youthful perfumed nose, didn't evolve much in the glass after loads of swirling. Inoffensive but a tad forgettable on the palate, tannins roaring so this will need more time (despite 2007 being termed an "early drinking" vintage). Perhaps the wine will show better in another five years?

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• 2004 Domaine de Chevalier 86 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Like the other reds tasted on the night, the nose was pleasant enough but was the weakest amongst the three. Despite a number of winemakers touting the 2004 vintage as one of their personal favourites, my limited experience with the 04s has been that they come across as rather "green" and slightly disjointed, albeit sporting loads of tannin and fruit. This example was no different, and while I hope that the wines will shine after more time in bottle, I will not be seeking out 04s for my personal consumption in the meantime.

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• 2009 Domaine de Chevalier 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  This had a similarly perfumed nose like the 2007, I had trouble deciding which one I liked better in that aspect. Felt it was a bit thin on the palate although rather pleasant and much more drinkable compared to the 2004 and 2007. Lacks the opulence of the vintage which is reflective of Adrien's comments that the wine produced is true to the domaine's style and certainly not Mr Parker's.

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• 2003 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  This was the WOTN for me. Tasted after the reds, this came across as powerful and vibrant so I can understand why we were advised to taste this last. Nose of thick honey and flowers (like a sauternes), powerful racy acidity dancing on the palate, with a fairly long defined finish. Can't believe WD scored this only 12.5/20 because this is really quite good stuff. If only the prices were lower...

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Overall, the reds were far more impressive on the nose, but not so much on the palate. The mighty fine nose on the 2007 was perfumed and alluring, neck-and-neck with the 2009 in this respect; the 2004 was just a little behind. On the palate, I found the wines slightly lacking on the whole, which was slightly disappointing given the high expectations I had, particularly of the 2009. The 2003 white was a surprise, and the WOTN for me; complex (Sauternes-like) nose, rich, vibrant and acidic body. I will certainly be seeking out more examples of white Bordeaux.