Year 2; Tasting 1 of 5; Dave does Barolo (1955-1999)

Determined to serve some truffles at his dinner, Dave jumped ahead a few spots in the rotation to open things up for our second year of tasting dinners. As a long time lover of Barolo, Dave had a nice selection in his cellar, and came across a few older gems in the secondary market to fill out the tasting. In addition to the wine, he also managed to secure a baseball sized black truffle that we were able to enjoy on just about every dish. The goal of this dinner was to gain a greater understanding for the aging curve of Barolo, and to get a handle on when might be the ideal time to consume our collective holdings.

Caviar with Creme Fraiche, Black Truffle and Brioche

• 1999 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut 92 Points

  France, Champagne

  From magnum, popped and poured, then followed over the course of the evening. In the glass, light gold in colour with a fine bead. On the nose, a touch reticent at first, but eventually urfurls, giving way to notes of baked apple, grated ginger, crushed rock, lime zest, baking spice, bread dough, caramel and a touch of coffee. On the palate, quite rich and round, with a somewhat viscous mouthfeel and persistent mouse. Acidity at first is a little more disguised but eventually becomes more prominent, leaning to a medium level. The finish is long, showing good complexity, with tastes of baked appled, walnut skin, mineral, citrus zest and ginger. Showing fairly young at this juncture, and I think there is a bit of upside with a little rest in the cellar.

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Wild Mushroom Risotto with Fresh Black Truffle

• 1955 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva 90 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Original release bottling. Popped and poured, showing a very light translucent ruby reading with significant rust showing at the rim of the glass. On the nose, tremendously complex, still showing a bit of fruit, with a dried red fruit character, decaying leaves, orange pekoe tea, celery salt, wet earth, mushroom, brown sugar, leather, driftwood, and suggestions of shoe polish. On the palate, feels a little thin, showing medium acidity and a touch of grip on the finish characterized by tangy red fruit, tea leaves, celery and a touch of ash. Still alive, but this probably would have been better 10+ years ago.

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• 1978 Prunotto Barolo Riserva Cannubi 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Popped and poured. Much deeper in colour than the '55 served alongside it, showing ruby red in the glass, with a mild brick. On the nose, this needed a bit of coaxing, but eventually gave way to notes of waxy cherry, earth, florals, truffle and beef stock. On the palate, medium plus acidity, and a fairly simplistic and seemingly unevolved flavour profile with notes of sour cherry, spice and earth rounding out moderate length drying finish. Showing quite young and still has upside. Should be good to go another 20 years at this rate.

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• 1982 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva 89 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Library release. Popped and poured. The darkest in the flight, showing a deep ruby red in the glass, with a light brick. On the nose, red fruit, sweat, baking spice, mushroom, earth, undergrowth, a touch of mint, some mild rubber, brown sugar and celery. On the palate, still showing quite a bit of structure, with moderate tannin and medium plus acidity. Finish is not particularly lengthy, with a simplistic profile of tart red cherry, plum, earth and spice. More of a pleasure to smell than to drink. I don't see time doing this any favours.

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Gnocchi with Braised Veal Cheek, Porcini Mushroom and Fresh Black Truffle

• 1985 Marchesi di Barolo Barolo Cannubi 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Popped and poured, ruby red, with a moderate brick. On the nose, deep red fruit, truffle, undergrowth, waxy cherries, and dried flowers. On the palate, still quite a bit of structure, with medium plus acidity and moderate tannin gripping on the finishing characterized by tart red fruits, earth, spice, flowers and tar.

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• 1985 Fontanafredda Barolo Vigna La Rosa 89 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Popped and poured, light translucent ruby in the glass, with a mild brick. On the nose, red cherry, brown sugar, baking spice, dried flowers, orange pekoe tea, undergrowth and mushroom. On the palate, showing a touch of sweetness, contrasted by sour cherry, earth, spice and dried flours. Structurally, showing medium plus acidity, and moderate tannin that grip on the finish. This fell off with about 45 minutes in the glass, and became a touch astringent. Not sure if this is a storage issue, but based on this bottle, I'd drink up.

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Artisan Truffelino, Proscuitto di Parma
Bastardo del Grappa, Testun Al Barolo and Pecorino Duro - Crotonese

• 1999 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 90 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Popped and poured, followed approximately 2 hours in the glass. Garnet in colour, with a nose showing typical Barolo notes of red fruits, mint, tar, baking spice and florals, but overlaid with some very strange lemon detergent notes. These were absolutely not due to the glassware being used, as the notes were consistent no matter what glass the wine was poured in. Very peculiar. On the palate, well balanced, but still quite structured; medium plus acid, moderate tannin; finishes at moderate length with some grainy tannin.

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• 1999 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Popped and poured, followed approximately 2 hours in the glass. Medium translucent garnet in colour. On the nose, this started out quite reductive, showing heavy notes of burnt rubber, but opened up to reveal notes of cherry, strawberry, baking spice, tar, wet earth, and sweat. On the palate, some reductive tastes present, but also showing some cherry, spice and tar notes. Without the reductive quality, this could have been quite a stunning wine. A shame, really.

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• 1999 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 94 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Popped and poured, followed approximately 2 hours. Deep garnet in the glass. The nose on this wine was just bursting from the glass, with notes of deep black cherry, plum, licorice, baking spice, aged balsamic, undergrowth, brown sugar and florals. On the palate, quite plush, but still very well balanced; silky smooth tannin, medium acidity, leading to a long finish. Quite modern, but just a really seductive wine. No shame in opening this now, in fact, for my palate, this seems like prime drinking.

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• 1999 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste Flawed

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Unfortunately this was quite oxidized.

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Affogato

• 2003 Triacca Sforzato di Valtellina San Domenico 89 Points

  Italy, Lombardia, Valtellina, Sforzato di Valtellina

  Popped and poured, followed in the glass about 30 minutes. On the nose, quite ripe, with dried red and black fruits, alcohol, baking spice, florals. On the palate, quite rich, full bodied, with medium acidity and moderate tannin that grip on the long, slightly alcoholic finish. Interesting wine, but not exactly my style.

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• 2005 Triacca Sforzato di Valtellina San Domenico 90 Points

  Italy, Lombardia, Valtellina, Sforzato di Valtellina

  Popped and poured, followed approximately 30 minutes. On the nose, a touch less ripe than the 2003, showing notes of black cherry, plum, a touch of brown sugar, baking spice and florals. Again, quite rich, but showing some reasonable balance, with medium acidity, moderate tannin. Finishes moderate. Again, interesting wine, but not really to my taste.

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Overall, a fantastic evening; great company, delicious food, and some very interesting wines. Will need to continue tasting Barolo at various stages to expand my sample size and get a better sense of preferable drinking windows.