Bonnes Mares with Jasper Morris

A sit down tasting to explore a range of growers and recent vintages of Bonnes Mares. The Roumier 1990 was fabulous, in a class of its own tonight. The Vougeraie 07 amazingly evolved and very attractive. I was charmed by the Rion. The Vogüés were classy but buttoned up. Most of these were long on tannin and structure and short on voluptuousness and I guess that might be characteristic of Bonnes Mares.

• 2000 Pol Roger Champagne Blanc de Blancs 91 Points

  France, Champagne

  Young, fine, a little toast, a few herbs, very poised

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• 2011 Patrice Rion Bonnes Mares 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Glorious black cherry perfume, fresh, explosive

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• 2008 Benjamin Leroux Bonnes Mares 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Oak on the nose. Some fragrance, but tight and sharp and rather charmless right now

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• 2009 Olivier Bernstein Bonnes Mares 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Still purple, good fragrance, spicy oak both on the nose and not the palate, briery, smoky. Nice but not distinctive.

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• 2007 Domaine de la Vougeraie Bonnes Mares 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Quite brown, bright, savoury, tea-like, some brown sugar sweetness at the core, floaty and tasted way older than its years - but utterly gorgeous

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• 2005 Domaine de la Vougeraie Bonnes Mares

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Dark, smooth, dumb, rich and weighty but not expressive today

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• 2000 Domaine de la Vougeraie Bonnes Mares 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  A tad vegetal on the nose, dark, dense, grippy, not sure I'd have picked this as burgundy

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• 2007 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Dense and smooth, a hint of spice, but overall reticent, everything locked in

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• 2002 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Spicy fragrance, some char, lean but big boned, young and very fine

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• 1999 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Deep, smoky, coffee-like, loads of tannin, big and grand

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• 1996 Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Brown, persistent, savoury, but with a sweet core, very grippy

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• 2000 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Not much on the nose, roasted and rich, dry and tannic, not expressive - disappointing

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• 1990 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares 96 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Smoky, sweet, broad, plush, lift, zip, focus, utterly gorgeous, a real wow wine

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