Fantastic visit and tasting with Laszlo Meszaros of Tokaj Disznoko

I will write a long blog piece for my new website - coming soon - about this fantastic visit to Domaine Disznoko in Tokay. I first met winemaker Laszlo Meszaros at Vinexpo 2013, with Marie Louis Schyler of AXA Millesimes, the owners. I can but only applaud loudly the excellent work and investment of AXA Millesimes at this domain (as with their other domains, including the super famous Pichon Longueville - Baron - in Pauillac). In any case, after a lovely visit to the vineyards, the reception and vat rooms, we settled in for a tasting of several wines, from dry to (ultra) sweet.

• 2012 Disznókő Furmint Tokaji Dry 92 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  This may be the very best dry Furmint I have ever had - admittedly I have not tried all that many, as I have only been to Budapest twice and in France it is not easy to purchase dry Furmint ... Still, Laszlo was ever professional and helpful in explaining the wine as we tasted. 2012 was a precocious vintage, he said. Picking on 1 September. Stainless steel fermentation with just 40% malolactic, and two months lees contact. I just loved the freshness and minerality. And the clean and pure aspect of this wine. Very little if any residual sugar, 13% alcohol and 5.8 grams per liter of acidity. The salty finish has left, and echoes flavors of wet stone and pear. Excellent - and a wine I will order to be certain!

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• 2012 Disznókő Furmint Tokaji Dry Lajosok 92 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  Another excellent dry wine from 2012, coming from vines grown on the Lajosok vineyard, a high south facing slope, with gravel over clay. Slightly higher acidity balances a slightly more ripe expression although alcohol is at 13%. Fermentation in French oak barrels for six months, again partial malolactic. Just 725 bottles of this wine, which exudes red and green apple and pear aromatics/flavors, and a very smooth and nuanced palate, with a salty fresh finish. Lovely!

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• 2011 Disznókő Tokaji Késöi Szüretelésü-Late Harvest 90 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  During my intense tasting weekend (+Monday) in Hungary, I came across some late harvest wines that were flabby. As if they just rely on the name Tokaj. This happens in the wine world when you have a strong brand. But Disznoko makes among the best wines I have tasted in Hungary and this was no exception. Although it was not as surprisingly good as the two previously tasted dry Furmints, it was good, exuding acacia and floral notes with a smooth texture and harmonious balance. It was 13% alcohol, 88 grams of residual sugar and just under 7 grams of acidity per liter.

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• 2007 Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 91 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  2007 was not a superb vintage, Laszlo explained. But I loved its mineral aspects - very pure and subtle in expression - before the palate yielded spice, orange rind, custard, pear and grapefruit. It was comparatively light to the 2006, which is a superior vintage and which we tasted after this. One taster, Norwegian wine writer Roger Kolbu, commented that he could finish a bottle of the 2007 but not the 2006. It may be so. 12.5% alcohol, 132 grams of r.s. and 7.2 grams of acidity per liter.

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• 2006 Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 93 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  The 2006 was to me clearly superior to the 2007, but I appreciate the stylistic differences. Higher in acidity by almost two grams! (9.3 g/l), the concentration was thus balanced, with an overall weightier feel: rich and structured, evoking intriguing spicy notes like clove and nutmeg, along with pepper and white fruits, but admittedly slightly closed.

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• 2002 Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 95 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  This is a Tokaj that I plan to purchase. With 11 grams of acidity per liter, matching the 176 grams of residual sugar per liter, it was downright spherical and certainly not ready for prime time drinking - but what a beauty! Made with 75% Furmint and 25% Zeta, with a base must of the aromatic Harslevelu and Furmint, the wine displayed superb purity of fruit and precision with endearing cinnamon/pepper spice, all held together with vibrancy and lift on the finish. Give it time and it will outdo the excellent 1993.

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• 1999 Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 90 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  This was a slight let down after the pristine heights of the 2002, but nonetheless a very good drink. Just rather edgy in comparison. But let's forget the 2002 and focus on the merits: acacia and honied notes, tobacco leaf minerality, and candied citrus, more orange than lemon - and a long finish. Grab some foie gras and go to town.

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• 1993 Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 95 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  Wow. Yes, that words sort of sums this up. Distinctly dry fruit/flowers like potpourri then fig and dry apricot on the palate, and distinct botrytis derived black tea - and yet very brisk and bright on the palate through to an exciting finish.

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• 2005 Disznókő Tokaji Eszencia 93 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  Well it is hard to put a number on this. I would not really consider it wine, but rather medicinal beauty. Unbelievably clocks it at just under 600 grams of residual sugar, with 1.5% alcohol and 16 grams of acidity per liter. The pure elixir coming from the ultra dried out picked berries, this is the essence of the Tokay grape. And for that alone, you can make it closer to 100 if you insist on points. For me, it was not as exciting as the 2002 and 1993 6 Puttonyos (as wines, that is).

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Of the few styles of Tokay I have tried, I favor the style of Disznoko, which stresses purity of fruit, less residual sugars, slightly higher acidities and freshness on the finish.