Table 6, Denver
Tasted Tuesday, March 18, 2014 by Tim Heaton with 418 views
Always a comfy, intimate venue, Table 6 (with star chef Carrie Shores & Team), was the setting for a dinner with Steve Matthiasson, four of his wines, and 20 other hungry, thirsty, friendly people.
Great to meet Steve, a really down to earth, soft-spoken (and no doubt inwardly brilliant) guy and hear his background, philosophies on growing, blending and living. I came away thinking Steve's that relative/friend you look forward to seeing all the time, but crazy schedules always get in the way. And then, when the stars (or calendars) align, it happens, and you're there, together; not a minute is wasted, a good time, and quality moments had by all.
2013 Matthiasson Rosé
USA, California, Napa Valley
Striking, very pale salmon/copper color. The blend of GSM + Counoise is different, though subtly, and not nearly as memorable as the lovely color. Acids dominate (not severely) the feminine fruits; bone-dry. More thoughtful than just a quaffing rosé, this light-bodied effort may lack a sense of fruit that some may demand in their rosé, but for those that look beyond the obvious, and wish to look a little closer, this could be just the thing. If I drink this again, I'll aerate to decanter for 30 minutes as it's pretty tightly wound right now. recommended, drink thru 2016
PnP served non-blind. Paired (nicely) with bibb, smoked shrimp, fennel, hericot vert, honey miso vin
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2012 Matthiasson White Wine
USA, California, Napa Valley
An interesting blend of Sauv Blanc/Ribolla Gialla/Semillon/Friulano. Delicate citrus, beeswax, saline and poached pear on the nose, with flavors largely following through to a sensibly dry, medium-bodied palate. Persistent, full at times. Though the label says 12,7% abv (IIRC), this has something of a heat signature that distracts more than it adds. I thought it could have been a slightly off bottle, but then another was opened, and the same thing. A better than average new-world take on this type of blend/style. Highly drinkable on its own, but just as well with food. Would have loved a chance to taste a (tank) non-barrel fermented version of this blend. Give this one hour in decanter.
PnP, served non-blind. Paired (wonderfully) with chicken skin tacos, celery root slaw, bleu aioli
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2011 Matthiasson Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
USA, California, Napa Valley
Fully ruby, bright. Pronounced aromas of herbs, pine tree, peppercorn, and eucalyptus. Full(-) bodied, and gently textured, with flavors of plum, pipe tobacco, herbs and under-ripe blackberries. Very much (thankfully) out of the current, ubiquitous mold of creamy oak and EtOH messes, this calls back to a day, a time, of decades past.
Interestingly, for me anyway, I was sure that in a blind tasting this would have been spot-on Coonawarra. While I liked the wine well enough, I can not recommend it at $65. 13,5% abv is fully integrated, the finish medium. Drink through 2018
What I like: true to the vintage, the coolness carries through the fruit; the blend (80% CS from multiple vineyard sites (Coombsville, Oak Knoll, etc.) throughout the valley, with 20% Merlot); the thoughtfulness that went into growing and making this
Missing: lacked some acids that could have taken this to the next level; very modest, fine tannins suggest this is built for early consumption
PnP, served non-blind. Paired (superbly) with Lamb Bacon Bolognese, Taleggio cream-cheese pierogies. The tarragon in this dish was great, but became explosive, highly-memorable when the wine was added to the equation.
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2011 Matthiasson Flora
USA, California, Napa Valley
Napa Vermouth. Win. Based on the Flora grape (cross between Gewürztraminer and Semillon, developed at UC Davis in the 50s) variety, then infused with Cardoons, Blood Oranges, coriander, wormwood, etc. The nose is slow to reveal, but on the palate, it's a whole different story. Cool, herbal, with a tart, slightly savory quinine finish that helps to add extra dimensions to an already interesting wine. This Vermouth is fun, (mostly) dry, and is a digestivo you need to investigate - the sooner the better. highly recommended, only 160 cases, just $25 (500ml)
PnP, served non-blind. Paired with Taleggio donuts, Matthiasson peach glaze
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