Marsannay @ Vinotecca

• 2009 Jenkyn Place Brut 86 Points

  United Kingdom, England, Hampshire

  Surprisingly full and structured on the attack. Bright fruit and a good touch of acidity. Integrates well. Very pleasant. ***

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• 2006 Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Millésimé 88 Points

  France, Champagne

  Nicely rich with some fresh, zingy fruit and nice, fresh length. Medium bodied. Very drinkable with the occasional reminder that there's something a little more serious here. ***

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• 2010 Domaine Marc Roy Marsannay Les Champs Perdrix Blanc 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Rich and grippy on the nose. Quite chalky. Far lighter on the palate than the nose suggested. Quite mineral with some lighter pear and melon notes. Fresh and clean. ***

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• 2010 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Marsannay La Charme aux Prêtres Blanc 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Bacon Frazzles seems to be the popular call on the nose, and I can see it but it evolves very quickly to a more creamy, deeply toasted hazelnut and warm brioche nose. Fat and full on the palate. Really quite rich. A food wine rather than an aperitif. Echoes of a solid BB from a Meursault producer. ***

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• 2009 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay Clos du Roy Blanc 86 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  A mix of oak, fruit and mineral on the nose, again completely different from the others.a floral, fruity quality to the mid-palate. Something a little feisty here. *** 86

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• 2010 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Les Longeroies 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Deep mid-red fruited. Almost a touch of bubblegum (though this subsides with air). Dense and dry currently. Plenty of extract. All there I think. Do not disturb. **(*1/2)

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• 2010 Domaine Coillot Marsannay Les Boivins 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Quite bright and vibrant on the nose. Plush and quite deep. A freshness here too. Plenty of zip. Fresh and quite long. Lots of potential. Lovely. Bright. ***1/2

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• 2009 Pierre Damoy Marsannay Les Longeroies 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Quite deep. A fresh almost slightly whole bunch fragrance. Some raspberry. Holds up on the palate - a nice balance between fruit and sufficient structure. Quite long. A touch dry on the finish. Changes quite a bit in the glass and starts to pull up a bit short. Decent though. ***

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• 2007 Domaine Bruno Clair Marsannay Les Vaudenelles 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Really quite mute and slightly lactic on the nose. Seems to take on the aromas of the food in a way the others don't. Quite tight and acidic. Pretty tightly shut I think, unusually for an 07. Nice line and purity though, but come back later. *(**)

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• 2007 René Bouvier Marsannay Ouzeloy 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Again, a little mute but a little more quiet depth to it cf the Clair alongside. Relatively mature, quite 07, pretty much ready to go. Smooth and cosseting rather than particularly complex, but a lovely drink for that. Smooth. ***

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• 2006 Domaine Bruno Clair Marsannay Les Vaudenelles 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Bright, quite dense, nicely fragrant nose. Quite shrill and tight though. Again, fairly closed on the palate. **(*)

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• 2005 Domaine Denis Mortet Marsannay Les Longeroies 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Very dense, plush cherry fruit. Still quite tight and dense and plushly oaky, but not quite as closed as I was expecting. Looking at the 02, this could be lovely. Very promising **(**)

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• 2004 Domaine Bruno Clair Marsannay Les Longeroies Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Sour cherry nose. A little disjointed. Slightly weird and astringent. Nose reminds one of industrial loo cleaner. No, coal tar soap emerging. Pretty strongly. Really unpleasant.

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• 2002 Domaine Denis Mortet Marsannay Les Longeroies 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Quite a full, bacon fat and black olive nose. Dense, quite rich and round. Serious wine. Has calmed down a bit from a few years back, and indeed after a while in the glass it becomes more Burgundy than Cote Rotie. Very good indeed. ****

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• 2001 Domaine Denis Mortet Marsannay Les Longeroies 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  A slightly toned down version of the 02, but a bit cooler and a little fresher. House style evident, but so is the vintage variation. ***1/2

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• 1993 Domaine Joseph Roty Marsannay Ouzeloy

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Quite cloudy. High acidity. Dregs from the bottle so can't really comment. Doesn't really seem to sing though.

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• 1990 Fougeray de Beauclair Marsannay Les Favières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Dregs. Very cloudy and dense. No idea - can't really comment. A quick sip of a clean glass suggested old school Faiveley.

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• 1990 Domaine Joseph Roty Marsannay 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Nicely bright and vibrant. Good acidity. Quite long. Bright red fruit, red currant and raspberry. Really hard to believe this is 90 rather than, say, 93. Really rather good. ***

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• 2001 Domaine Denis Mortet Marsannay Les Longeroies 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  A second bottle. Opened and poured straight away (apparently the first bottle had been open for a few hours before drinking). Similar again to the 02, toned down a little, but a little more vibrant than the previous bottle of 01. ***1/2 plus.

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An interesting tasting. I don't think I really got much of a sense of the village, but producer and vintage largely came through loud and clear. The Clair wines were pretty closed a part from the 04 which would have been better if it had been - having largely avoided 04s previously, that's my first whiff of ladybird and hopefully my last. I've the Clair Longeroies in halves in 08, and the ones I've had so far have been far nicer than the showings last night, so I wonder whether they just shut down properly and tightly?

The whites were an interesting bunch - the Pataille trying very hard to be a serious C de B but not really having the panache, the Roy good and an aperitif to table style and the Fournier a little manic. Quite impressed with the Jenkyn Place too; very drinkable.

Overall, Mortet took it by a country mile, consistent too. Probably the least Marsannay-like though, in the greater scheme of things. Pataille seemed promising, but again, needs time.