A Lambrays dinner

A dinner organised by Sebastian Thomas of Howard Ripley Wines at which a range of recent vintages of Clos des Lambrays were introduced by Thierry Brouin, the manager and winemaker there for the past 35 years. I have several knowledgeable burgundy friends who rave about these wines, but I've always been underwhelmed and was determined this time to have a good look for their virtues. Sadly, I still can't see them. The wines are nice enough, but are light and dilute, and I expect more from a grand cru.

• 2000 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 87 Points

  France, Champagne

  Soft, a hint of toast, anonymous - unimpressive

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• 2013 Domaine des Lambrays La Rose Du Clos Rosé 88 Points

  France, Burgundy

  Fragrant, vivid, very pretty

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• 2007 Domaine des Lambrays Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Explosive spicy oak nose, fantastic depth, exciting stuff (Hard to believe it's only 50% new oak)

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• 2011 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 85 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

  The first 2011 I've had which seemed to have some pyrazines - light and raw

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• 2007 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

  Pure, black cherry fruit, bright and fine

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• 2006 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

  Bigger, richer, riper, oakier than the 2007, this had an extra touch of class

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• 2002 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

  (from magnum) - poised, balanced, but understated to the point of anonymity - I'd hoped for much more from this

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• 2008 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

  Bright, a touch of milk, some shoe polish, a bit awkward

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• 2009 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

  Smooth, plush, but surprisingly had a green streak

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• 1999 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

  (from magnum) - similar to the 02, but warmer with more of a tobacco note - nice enough, but too subtle for me

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• 2005 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

  Tight, black cherry fruit, lots of tannin, not very expressive, but serious and fine

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• 2012 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

  Bottled two weeks ago. Almost fizzy, juicy, Gevrey like with its earth and fruit, really enticing

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• 2000 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese 93 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  A weak vintage maybe, but this was still spectacular, round, mouthwatering, palate-caressing, very lovely

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