La Commanderie de Bordeaux à Vancouver - 1988 Horizontal

Boneta
Tasted Monday, April 8, 2013 by godx with 498 views

Flight 1 - Caramelized onion tart, watercress, pickled cippolini, walnut vinaigrette, red wine jus (3 Notes)

  • 1988 Château Palmer 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Gorgeous nose with maturing dark fruits, hints of Bordeaux funk and green tobacco. Lighter in weight with slightly astringent tannins but overall has a feminine and somewhat elegant profile. A decent showing but I think this wine shows the vintage character (a bit lean). Drink now. Very good.

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  • 1988 Château Lynch-Bages 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    a slightly riper nose here with dark red fruits, cedar and some creamy/toasty/vanilla notes that seemed to blow off after 30min in the glass (thankfully). And while there is still the hint of green, it’s even less obviously than the Palmer. This LB has the most weight of this flight but the palate is a bit tart and simple with quite a bit of structure left. A brawnier wine. Very good.

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  • 1988 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Perfumey nose with pepper, cedar, maturing dark red fruits and a touch of bell pepper. Decent weight on the palate with good acidity and firm but finer tannins. Most complicated and well balanced of the flight. Excellent.

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Flight 2 - Duck breast, roasted orange puree, chanterelles, crispy leg, braised endive, baby fennel (3 Notes)

  • 1988 Château Cos d'Estournel 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    Dusty old book nose with bell pepper and dark cherries. A bit shy on the nose and the green profile seems to dominate everything else. Tannins are firm and powdery on the back end a good amount of fruit. This is quite youthful looking (almost still ruby in colour) and there’s seems to be enough fruit to match the structure to, based on this bottle, I’d say it needs time. Very good. 89+

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  • 1988 Château Léoville Barton 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Quite a nice and forward nose of dark cherries, cedar and graphite. Smells youthful still though which matches its youthful appearance. Firm and astringent on the palate with well-balanced fruit. Drink or hold. Excellent. 90+

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  • 1988 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    excellent nose with classic Pauillac aromas: cedar, pencil shavings, leather and dark fruits. Smoothest wine so far with a soft entry but the structure is still somewhat firm reminding you of the vintage. Acidity is solid which adds lift on the back end. This is thoroughly enjoyable now but could easily be held another decade. The best nose and palate so far and the most complete wine yet. Excellent.

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Flight 3 - Roasted lamb saddle, confit fingerlings,charred leek, tokyo turnip, celeriac puree (4 Notes)

  • 1988 Château Léoville Las Cases 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Not as expressive as the Mouton. Shyer nose but did open up after a few minutes in the glass. Fresher nose with beautiful graphite, tobacco and darker fruits. Hints of bell pepper too. Rich dark fruit and very well structured on the palate. Showing extremely youthfully on the palate with firm and hard tannins and a drying sensation on the finish. This was quite different compared to the others in the flight as this was firmer and more masculine. Needs time. Excellent. 92+

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  • 1988 Château Mouton Rothschild 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Currants, smoke, licorice and hints of rubber/tar on the nose which seems to be typical of Mouton. Best nose of the flight. Richer currants and cassis on the palate. Mouthfeel reminded of the Pichon Baron but with more depth and more complexity. Great acidity with balanced tannins and one of the few wines without any hard, drying or astringent tannins. My WOTN. Drink or hold. Outstanding.

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  • 1988 Château Haut-Brion 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Shy at first but opened up with air. Licorice and beautiful red fruits dominate with hints of rocky earth. A bit darker fruits on the palate with excellent acidity and balanced tannins. A ‘gravelly’ profile if that makes any sense. My only concern was some greenness on the finish and how that will affect the wines ability to age further. Overall I found this to be quite classic although there seemed to be bottle variation around the tables as other glass I smelt had some off putting aromas. Excellent.

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  • 1988 Château Cheval Blanc Flawed

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    This nose was weird: vitamin B. candied and roasted fruits. Palate was equally strange with stripped fruit and very soft. After trying someone else’s glass, this was clearly an off bottle.

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Flight 4 - Brown butter financier, poached pear, bleu d'auvegne ice cream (1 Note)

  • 1988 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Medium yellow/gold colour. Rich and sweet nose of mango, apricots and baking spice. Fairly well balanced on the palate with solid acidity and length. Drink or hold. Very good.

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