Drink Greek with Vinography

Souvla Restaurant, SF
Tasted Wednesday, May 7, 2014 by RajivAyyangar with 490 views

Flight 1 - Village Salad (Horiatki Salata) (1 Note)

Cherry tomatoes, cucumber, feta, red onion, kalamata olives, lemon-oregano vinaigrette.

The tartness and saltiness of the salad elements played nicely with the clean, vibrantly acidic Vidiano, but for me neither really enhanced the other. They were both superb on their own.

  • 2012 Alexakis Vidiano 90 Points

    Greece, Crete

    Light gold in the glass, this has a very fresh, sauvignon-blanc-like nose of warm melon with distinct notes of grapefruit and grass, and a trace of detergent and hops. In the mouth it is focused and lively, with long flavors of melon and orange peel carried by clean, rippling acidity.

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Flight 2 - From the Rotisserie: Chicken (Sti Souvla) (1 Note)

Rocky Jr. free-range rotisserie chicken, roasted potatoes.

The chicken was beautifully roasted, with flavor-packed skins and juicy meat falling off the bone. The potatoes were similarly excellent - the flavor of rustic potatoes focused and intensified through caramelization and precise seasoning. For me the pairing did nothing - the food stole the show from the beautiful Assyrtiko, which I set aside to enjoy in between the following courses.

  • 2012 Sigalas Assyrtiko Santorini 92 Points

    Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini

    This wine was killing it tonight! Light gold in the glass, this had honeyed aromas of melted wax with a subtle suggestion of well-integrated, lemon-curd-like oak. Gorgeous. In the mouth it was medium-bodied, with plenty of acidity and a riveting chord of wax, citrus, and cream. My favorite wine of the night!

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Flight 3 - Lamb (3 Notes)

This course was a beauty: roasted Superior Farms leg of lamb with braised Bluelake beans and pita bread.

The generous steak-cut lamb slices were encrusted with herbs and caramelized fat, and luckily the two reds were powerful enough to support and enhance the meat. In turn, the fattiness of the lamb cut the hard tannins of the Skouras Grand Cuvee. This was truly great pairing and the subject of much admiration around the table.

  • 2005 Alpha Estate Xinomavro Réserve Vieilles Vignes 87 Points

    Greece, Macedonia, Amyndaio

    Dark dull garnet in the glass, this wine had some aged characteristics - slight oxidative suggestion, raisiny notes, leather, earth, hints of brett, mushroom, acetone. Also on the nose were dark tones of liquorice and black raspberry. Medium body with medium+ alcohol (felt a bit hot, though it's apparently 13.5%), med+ acid and low tannins.

    Interesting and paired really well with the lamb.

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  • 2007 Skouras Agiorgitiko Grande Cuvée 87 Points

    Greece, Peloponnisos, Nemea

    Dark garnet in the glass, low lustre. On the nose, warm brett-y menthol with bright raspberry tones. In the mouth it felt a bit young and closed down, with med-high drying tannins, med+ body, med alcohol, good acid balance. The overall impression was one of a blocky, lightly-oaked, solid wine that's a bit closed down. The roast lamb cut the tannins and opened it up nicely.

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  • 2008 Skouras Megas Oenos 86 Points

    Greece, Peloponnisos, Peloponnese

    Dark garnet in the glass, this wine has a rustic, attractive nose of artisan green olives, mushroom, and dark savory fruits. In the mouth it is a little hot with a solid core of fruit, savory notes, and a medium-length finish. Delicious.

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Flight 4 - Sweets (Glyka) (1 Note)

Frozen Greek yogurt with olive oil and fleur de sel.
(see tasting note).

This was delightful, and much less sweet than one might expect. Sweetness, saltiness, creaminess, coldness, and olive-oil-ness were all seemingly in equal proportion. How do you balance flavor with temperature and taste? I don't know, but the chef apparently does.

  • 2004 Sigalas Vinsanto Santorini 91 Points

    Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini

    Medium amber in the glass, this wine has an attractive nose of nutty, oxidative honey with wax and fresh paint. Seriously - as if you just dipped the paint roller into the tray and bent down and sniffed it. On the palate it is gorgeously balanced with long, waxy, dried orange peel sweetness, balanced by sufficient acidity and a satisfying savoriness. Also on the palate is a nice bitterness and a hint of drying tannins. Brilliantly paired with (and eventually poured over) lightly-sweetened greek frozen yogurt topped with olive oil and fleur de sel.

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