Greek Chic - A fine wine tutored tasting with Demetri Walters MW

Berry Bros & Rudd, London
Tasted Monday, June 2, 2014 by Papies with 767 views

Introduction

Dimitri Walters MW, the Hellenic Specialist at BBR presented a very interesting flight of Greek wines. Focused on the unique grapes and styles of the Hellenic World, mostly from the islands, he tried to show the out of ordinary yet “special” and distinct grapes and wines. As usual the tasting was of Oxbridge level, BBR style to the maximum.

Flight 1 - Some Unique whites (5 Notes)

  • 2012 Diamantakis Winery Vidiano 85 Points

    Greece, Crete, Heraklion, Peza

    Quite a distinctive wine. As if it was made in an oxidative way(but it wasn’t) , with a bitter feel on the finish, at times reminded us of vin jaune, but with a good sweet core and bitterness where we expected oxidation. Not our style 85

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  • 2012 Lyrarakis Dafni 86 Points

    Greece, Crete

    Quite an aromatic nose, no oak here, good texture, firm wine raised in stainless steel. Good natural acidity, aggressive wine on the palate. A good wine for a variety of food, pleasant but lacks complexity. Did we really get the feel of bay leaf or was the name of the wine leading us to that? 86

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  • 2012 Lyrarakis Thrapsathiri Armi 89 Points

    Greece, Crete

    A good find and a wine we would look to buy for sure. Rare type of grape here and only the 3rd vintage ever made. Made with a lot of skin contact and has quite a pronounced colour. Fat on the palate, light oxidative style, however no harsh edges here. Good intensity. Very unique wine but at times it felt more interesting than nice. A lot of capacity to age too. 89

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  • 2013 Sigalas Assyrtiko Santorini 88 Points

    Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini

    In our limited exposure to Greek wines, by far the most interesting of grapes from the country. This 14.5% un-oaked example is the sharp and pure expression, prompt harvest maintained the acidity and freshness of the wine, light aromatic nose, light in colour. Light grassy at times. Made in the traditional training style of kouloura for the vines (basket form) on its own rootstocks. A wine to drink sooner than later. Pretty solid. 88 (Andreas 90 / Nicol 86)

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  • 2011 Hatzidakis Winery Assyrtiko Nykteri 90 Points

    Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini

    Dark in colour, richer than the usual steely assyrtiko, fuller harvested at good ripeness and vinified straight away thought the night (hence the Nykteri designation – nikta = night) and thus has kept its acidity. Light oxidative notes, Light residual sugar here and has seen oak, but the wine dominates the oak not the other way around. An interesting twist to the assyrtiko grape. Concentrated and with good ageing capacity. Nicol 88 with potential / Andreas 91

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Flight 2 - The Reds (3 Notes)

All difficult grapes just starting to be understood

  • 2011 Zambartas Maratheftiko 89 Points

    Cyprus, Paphos

    Purpleish in colour, young and fresh. Made in small quantities in bush style vines on their original rootstock. Fermented in stainless steel and then aged in 15 months in old oak. Bright fruit, cab franc style in a way. Good tannin. Young wine with lots of ageing capacity. 88-89 for now with a bit of bias. Good to see our little island starting to churn quality wines.

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  • 2011 Thymiopoulos Xinomavro Gi kai Ouranos 88 Points

    Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa

    Biodynamic production. Decent colour but not a very dark red , quite a bit of ripeness, lots of fresh fruit character, fragrant but also a bit alchoholic on the nose. Young good acidity. Has a nebbiolo side to it . Young but accessible but still with grippy tannin. Lacks a bit of length at this stage.88

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  • 2010 Sigalas Mavrotragano 89 Points

    Greece, Aegean, Cyclades

    Dark red in colour, lots of density. Light on the nose not very expressive. The palate has an almost amarone feel to it but a lot fresher. Solid wine, rich, big body, lots of extract. Intense wine. Big but not massive. Very distinct . 89.

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Flight 3 - The Sweets: (3 Notes)

The original wines made of the passimento method, sun dried grapes. Vin Santo moved to Tuscany only when the Venetians lost control of the Greek Isles to the Ottomans.

  • NV Lyrarakis Malvasia of Crete 92 Points

    Greece, Crete

    Although technically an NV wineQuite a bit of colour, rich caramel, Takaji feel at times but not as sweet. Rich yet balanced, with good acidity.11.5 Alc. Very beautiful wine. Made with local grapes of dafni,klito and vidiano.92 will last easily a decade.

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  • 2003 Hatzidakis Winery Vinsanto 91 Points

    Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini

    Coffe colour, almost like a Spanish PX colour. Lots of sediment here and we would suggest decanting.Slow fermented wine, light volatile acidity and a light madeira feel to it. Made of assyrtiko and Aidani grapes. 210g of residual sugar but the acidity keeps it in check. Sweeter than the Italian version of Vinsanto but also in a way fresher. Lots of life ahead. 91/92

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  • 2004 Kyperounda Commandaria 92 Points

    Cyprus, Commandaria

    The longest continuously made wine in the world is finally seeing its rebirth. Gone as the cheap and bad fortified versions of this made for the old soviet block (similar story to Tokaji in a way). This is a wine of quality, not fortified yet with 16ish% alc, aged in barrel (old barrels that used to make white wine) for 9yrs, unfiltered. This is the first vintage of Minas Mina. Aromatic, sweet but well balanced and vibrant. Very well made and a joy. Lots of ageing capacity. 92-93 but a bit of an emotional/biased rating.

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Flight 4 - And some moonshine to finish (1 Note)

  • NV Loel " Zivana" Zivania 80 Points

    Cyprus, Limassol, Zivania

    The Cypriot version of grappa, very much a spirit though that it is aimed to go with food and this entry level one could use all the help it could get. Worked well to cleanse the palate of the sweet wines that came before it. 80

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Closing

We have this theory, Greece makes excellent sweet wines who can be world class, very good whites and relatively average reds. Well it was in line with the above but good to see the reds making a comeback.

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