Domaine de Chevalier Tasting

A vertical was requested which would:
1. Be a good illustration of how Bordeaux ages
2. Show what you can learn about a chateau from comparing so many vintages
3. Not completely break the bank

So my mind went to DdC, which turned out to be a good choice.

With Comte

• 2003 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  This was strong right out of the gate - brought this down to about 55 and pulled the cork. Since I speak Left Bank Red fluently and kind of muddle may way through the rest, I'm not sure I have so much to add here. But my impression was that the Semillon was the main driver of the wine, its waxy, lanolin, apricot notes rather dominant. This was very good wine; I remember Olivier Bernard talking to Brook I think, saying that they use the pre-soaked oak with a light toast to give the whites structure rather than oak flavors. I can buy that, but there's still some oak here which I think is a function of this being a young wine.

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With Mark, Aaron, and Jordanna. A beautiful afternoon.

• 1966 Domaine de Chevalier 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  High shoulder, awful looking cork - but when it came out, there was about a millimeter between wine coming up from the bottom and mold coming down from the top so we were safe! I decanted and immediately served this, thinking it might flag with air but it didn't. It held up well for the hour and a half over which we drank the bottle.
  
  Beautiful, open, lovely nose with a lot of impact. Dusty, leathery, old tobacco smoke with this lithe wisp of fruit. Almost honeyed. The palate was all patina, but still tannic!
  
  Needs drinking now (!)

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• 1978 Domaine de Chevalier 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  En magnum from HDH. Cork just a touch sunk but VTS fill. Decanted and drunk over the next 2-3 hours. Like the 66, leather and tobacco but almost tobacco of a different sort... related but it's not the same. Unlike the 66, this had a load of spice - camphor and allspice. Another strong nose here; nothing subtle. Oaky, almost meaty palate with the tobacco and sweet fruit of aging Graves. Just a spicebox on the finish. Needs drinking now.

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• 1989 Domaine de Chevalier 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  From 750 with a good fill and cork. Decanted for 2 hours and then drunk over the next 2. Roasted, smokey, and succulent Pessac without being heavy. The palate carries a beautiful nutty and meaty component. Excellent. This has the legs to go years but rather difficult to imagine it improving substantially.

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• 2000 Domaine de Chevalier 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  The youngest red in our 1966-2000 Chevalier line-up and certainly showing so by a wide margin. Decanted for about 4 hours and then drunk over a couple more. This is still embryonic, of course - but it has the Chevalier family traits lurking down there somewhere. Dark wine (in color and fruit tone), inky; the earth and smoke popping out but not really hitting on full throttle yet. But it will. And pretty soon, too.

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