Dinner at Studio (Reprised)

For those visiting Laguna Beach, California, Studio restaurant (seen in the above photo as the oceanfront structure near the two tall palm trees) is a dining experience not to be forgotten. Chef Craig Strong is one of this country's finest, with an imagination backed up by impressive skill. His attention to detail is unsurpassed. Each dish is not only delicious but is a veritable work of visual art! During the past year, the restaurant's wine program has been strengthened by the addition of Jesse Rodriguez as sommelier. Oenophiles will recognize his name from the French Laundry and Addison (San Diego), the latter being the Wine Spectator Grand Award winner with a list which he built from scratch. Chef Strong, Wine Director Troy Smith and Sommelier Rodriguez are flanked by an impressively-trained, professional staff which is second to none.

Topped with lemongrass basil and served in a glass (essentially consumed like a cocktail), this was a heavenly beginning to an amazing evening. Assorted breads (my favorite being the sourdough French) were subsequently served with three different butters: goat's milk, Meyer lemon spring chive and Studio's house butter from Petaluma Farms.

As with all of the dishes, this was visually stunning. Carnival amaranth, garden herbs, caramelized grapefruit, Easter radishes and citrus brûlée were the supporting acts.

• 2010 Alain Geoffroy Chablis 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  Consumed from a half-bottle, this was an excellent recommendation from our sommelier, Jesse Rodriguez. It is a straw-colored, crisply acidic, light-bodied, seamlessly alcoholic (12.5%) Chablis which flaunts citrus, chalk and floral aromas. The flavors follow in line with the nose and the finish is long. Bravo to Alain Geoffroy for crafting this well-priced, delicious, food-friendly wine. Even more kudos to our sommelier for suggesting it over a more "conventional" suggestion of my own. Drink now-2017.

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With speck ham, fresh Australian black truffles and parsley, this is one to behold!

Integrated with fiddlehead ferns, ramps, smoked buckwheat and sorrel sauce, this was a knockout dish which paired perfectly with the Chablis.

Flanked by farro, sunchokes and huckleberries, this delectable dish was intensified by a grand veneur sauce which "sealed the deal." Perfection with the Margaux!

• 1994 Château Margaux 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  From a bottle purchased upon release and cellared in pristine condition, this wine was brought to the equivalent of a three star Michelin restaurant. The bottle was left with the restaurant 24 hours in advance but was not opened and decanted until our arrival. It was subsequently serially tasted over the ensuing three hours. Deep-to-opaque garnet in color, this Margaux has a beautiful nose of black fruit, tobacco, saddle leather and allspice. On the palate, it is a firmly tannic, tartly acidic, seamlessly alcoholic (12.5%), very "structured" Bordeaux. The flavors mirror the nose but are lost in the very structure which is meant to support the fruit. Solid in the middle, it finishes long and with substantial tannic grip. While there is certainly plenty of fruit on this well-cellared bottle to ensure at least 10 more years of ageing, this is a wine where the tannins will ultimately outlast the fruit. Not the best Château Margaux, but certainly one of the stars of the vintage (a vintage which followed three terrible vintages). Drink now-2024.

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This Spanish cheese was complimented by zucchini, pepper coulis and pine nuts. The Margaux continued its role as a worthy accompaniment.

All I can say is..."wow." I am not one who clamors for dessert, but this one was something special! Sommelier Rodriguez selected the Rieussec, which was nothing short of brilliance. Studio followed this with a special tribute to the "birthday girl" who happens to be my girlfriend (and wife) of thirty years.

• 2005 Château Rieussec 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  This medium-to-deep gold Sauternes has enticing peach, tropical fruit, vanilla and allspice aromas. Medium-bodied and moderately viscous, it has impressive acidity that balances the rich fruit flavors which mirror the nose. There is a moderate amount of Botrytis, but certainly not commensurate with other great vintages such as 2001. Solid in the middle and medium-to-long on the finish, this is a gorgeous dessert wine which will have significant longevity. Drink now-2035.

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Bravo to Montage Resorts for recognizing and hiring amazing talent. Studio is a three-star Michelin-quality experience not to be missed!