France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Yellow with green glint. Typical Puligny flinty nose. Ripe, rich citrus entry and glyceral feel, but this is cut by a good bit of chalkiness and good acidity. Toasty oak expresses itself toward the end. Overall, very nice and ultimately not a fat 2006.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Medium yellow. Duller, lower pitched aromatics than the '06 Folatieres. Lighter weight and less obvious wood than that wine. Less prominent fruit and more minerality. Sound acidity, and once again, back end oak. On one hand, it is finer than the older wine, but it seems rather neutral with little flavor authority through the mid-palate.
Medium ruby center, incomplete clarity. The nose is all charred oak. Heavy and dense-by its feel, I never would have picked it out as a Volnay. Some tart red fruit that does not really stand up to the wood, round tannins. The best I can say is that it is not one of those brutal, completely unapproachable '05s, but it's impossible for me to embrace this style of vinification for Volnay.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Medium center with fading. Some gaminess and faint secondary perfume. Dense, chocolatey, quite oaky. Black fruited, tannic grip that will not let go, and an earthy finish to boot. Much better substance here than the Volnay Caillerets but still with the hallmark sledgehammer wood of this producer. Very 2005 astringency and pucker at this point. Interesting to see what happens with this.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Even, light ruby. Mint is the dominant scent with a touch of funk. Just ever so briefly sappy on the attack, then powerfully tannic and bound up with penetrating acidity. Between this being Corton and 2005, this approaches the point of being punishing to taste right now. I would guess that the Renardes has a better chance than this wine over the long haul because of its deeper fruit and material.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Light ruby, fading rim. Some red berry and game on the nose. So completely different and very difficult to recalibrate the palate and taste this after the 2 Cortons. Elegant weight, tart red fruit, lovely fruit/soil balance, altogether less encumbered by wood and tannins. This is a very creditable Gevrey Grand Cru that is by far the best of the reds and definitely approaching some degree of maturity.
2006 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Yellow with green glint. Typical Puligny flinty nose. Ripe, rich citrus entry and glyceral feel, but this is cut by a good bit of chalkiness and good acidity. Toasty oak expresses itself toward the end. Overall, very nice and ultimately not a fat 2006.
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2007 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Medium yellow. Duller, lower pitched aromatics than the '06 Folatieres. Lighter weight and less obvious wood than that wine. Less prominent fruit and more minerality. Sound acidity, and once again, back end oak. On one hand, it is finer than the older wine, but it seems rather neutral with little flavor authority through the mid-palate.
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