2012 Chablis from Sebastien Christophe

• 2012 Sébastien Christophe Petit Chablis

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Petit Chablis

  Pale. Light weight with terrific oyster and brine. More substance, drive, and interest than usual at this level. Essence of Chablis character.

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• 2012 Sébastien Christophe Chablis Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  Pale color. Terrific blend of citrus fruit, minerality and acidity with minimal wood. Great purity and intensity. A clear cut above most village wines.

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• 2012 Sébastien Christophe Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Not quite as rich as the Vieilles Vignes. More linear and mineral driven. Deft touch of oak. Terrific Premier Cru in a light but highly focused style.

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This was an excellent small range from a producer with whom I was not familiar. Pure, classic, judicious use of wood. More Dauvissat than Raveneau, if you want to compare to the appellation's gold standards. Thomas Pico and his Pattes Loups wines have gotten a lot of attention, but based upon this initial experience, I have a hunch that this might be an even more exciting new domain.