Baller dinner honoring Chicago winos -- 99 La Tache, 99 Leroy RSV, 07 SE & etc

I got invited to a small gathering to welcome two Chicago winos. I was the last minute replacement but I wasn’t about to complain. The food and wine service at Capella was exceptional as usual. We drank a number of incredibly rare wines.

It was a perfect evening to hang out on the roof deck.

• 1996 Dom Pérignon Champagne Oenothèque 96 Points

  France, Champagne

  Started a bit clumsy/ripe. With air, freshen up nicely, yellow fruits, lemon, a hint of green apple, smoke, oyster shell and mineral. Once again very Chevalier like. Fine mousse, mineral, good concentration, oyster brine, bright acidity and long finish. Not as good as the last bottle from the same batch. Nevertheless really enjoyable.

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• 1973 Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut La Grande Dame 90 Points

  France, Champagne

  I am a big fan of the 73 Champagnes and I was looking forward to this bottle. Sort of an old school funky shape bottle. Lovely golden color with plenty of shy bubbles. The flavor profile is very similar to dry white Bordeaux of the period. Apricot, baked cinnamon apple, honey, smoke and mineral. Medium concentration, bright acidity and good length. A few thought madeirized but I felt just mature. Not showing a great deal of complexity and certainly further advanced than the other 73s I had. It would be interesting to try at home over a couple of days as the mature whites tend to get fresher and gain weight with a few hours of air.

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• 2009 Marcassin Chardonnay Three Sisters Vineyard 94 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Ripe yellow fruits, lemon curd, citrus, pineapple, ginger candy, oyster shell and oak and a bit of heat at the end. Excellent concentration, ripe yet cool yellow fruit driven palate impression, good acidity and a bit of heat and oak as the end note. A very well made Cali chardonnay and very marcassin.

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• 1999 Maison Leroy Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Ripe yellow fruits, mineral, almond paste, honey and spicy spices. Good density, fat, ripe yellow fruit drivne palate impression, good acidity and minerality and good finish. Definitely not premoxed but quite ripe and fat. Hoping for a bit more precision. Nevertheless very good 1er crus Meursault and quite enjoyable.

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• 2003 Peter Michael Chardonnay Point Rouge 94 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley

  Surprisingly fresh for a ten year old Californian chardonnay. Pitted yellow fruits, lemon curd, ginger, honey, sweet spices and a hint of oak. Very good concentration and balance, ripe yellow fruit driven palate impression and good length. This has settled in nicely

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• 1996 Domaine d'Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy) Bonnes Mares 97 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Incredibly expressive nose of crushed red berries, raspberries, strawberry jam, candied cherries, sweet caramel, a hint of sous bois and strong presence of mint and menthol . As Justin pointed out, strong note of beguiling nose pedal. Fully integrated palate, shy and subtle sweet red fruits, strong presence of mineral, tar and seamless long finish. Compare to the RSV and La Tache, more integrated, feminine and mature nose. The palate is more linear and not as concentrated. Really lovely wine.

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• 1999 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 99 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru

  Expressive nose of perfectly ripe crushed red and black berries, incredible amount of mineral and sap, black tea, a hint of light soy and Asian spices and stem that contributes to the incredible complexity. Incredibly concentrated and energetic palate, layers upon layers of sweet black fruit, intense yet very detailed and precise, formidable structure and unbelievably long finish. It will need another twenty years to be at the peak, almost overwhelming at the moment. The biggest La Tache of my life.

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• 1999 Domaine Leroy Romanée St. Vivant 98 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

  This has to be the most complete and hedonistic wine of the flight at the moment. Expressive nose displaying perfectly ripe red and black fruits, powder sugar, candied lavender petals, dark spices, a hint of soy, tree bark, stem and earth. Excellent concentration, youthful yet perfectly harmonious palate, intense dark berry driven palate impression, tannins masked by intense sweet fruits and seamless finish that lasts. Noticeable Leroy signatures, ie intense sweet fruits, floral, baking spices and etc. Really hedonistic wine.

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• 1982 Château Mouton Rothschild 98 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Intensity and youthfulness of the 82 Mouton is mindboggling for me. A classic Pauillac, expressive nose of cassis, cedar, lead pencil and caramel with a tough of wet tobacco. Excellent concentration, intense sweet and youthful dark fruit driven palate impression, silky and polished palate, nicely integrated tannins and seamless long finish. Slightly challenging to taste after three great red Burgundies but still magnificent showing.

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• 2005 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 97 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  What fun and privilege to compare the 05 and 07 side by side. I seem to always find the 05 Rayas very Burgundian without ever losing the true expression of a great CDP. Expressive nose displaying bright red fruits, crushed red cherries, kirsch, a hint of garrigue and wet tobacco and sweet spices. Delicate yet decadent palate, sweet sappy red fruit driven palate impression, nicely integrated tannins and seamless long finish. This is drinking beautifully right now. Perfectly harmonious and delicious.

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• 2007 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 98 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Once again what fun and privilege to compare the 05 and 07 side by side. This is bigger and darker than the 05. Blackberries, blackberry liquor, black cherries, a hint of cherry liquor a la Rayas, licorice, lavender, gariggue, dark spices, anise and animal. Exceptional concentration, wild herb, tobacco and jammy black fruit driven palate impression, perfectly integrated tannins and long seamless finish.

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• 2002 Sine Qua Non Syrah Heart Chorea 98 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast

  I had absolutely no idea what to expect. This has to be one of the top three biggest Syrahs especially considering the age. Intense jammy dark fruit driven nose, black tea, dark spices, licorice, dark caramel and coffee. Exceptional concentration, coffee and dark fruit driven palate impression, good acidity and nicely integrated tannins. This is a big wine that is aging glacially and gracefully.

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• 2010 Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Expressive nose of cassis, black fruits, dark spices and lead pencil. Good concentration, silky palate, nicely integrated tannins and noticeable heat at the end.

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• 2007 Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon 96 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

  This seems big and ripe compare to a couple other vintages I had. Intense sweet blue fruit driven nose, cassis, blueberry liquor, lead pencil, dust and a hint of cherry coming from alcohol. Excellent concentration, silky and polished, jammy blue fruit driven palate impression, good acidity, nicely integrated tannins and good length. Very enjoyable but at $2k per pop……

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We headed back to the roof deck. RJ generously brought a few stogies which we enjoyed with the port.

• 1949 Château d'Yquem 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Bright amber. Fresh nose considering the age, burnt sugar, apricot, vanilla and black tea lightly brewed. Not showing much botrytis. Medium concentration and sweetness, bright acidity, excellent balance and seamless finish. Just like the last bottle, quite polished, really enjoyable but not a profound D’Yquem.

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• 1935 Cockburn Porto Vintage 96 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Lovely old port, dry apricot and fig, caramel, maple syrup, sassafras, anise and caramel. Still quite sweet, nut and dry fruit driven palate impression, silky and polished palate, lovely long finish.

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We had such a great time that the dinner lasted over seven hours.