Three Boston Dinners

The Hub
Tasted Sunday, August 17, 2014 - Tuesday, August 19, 2014 by drwine2001 with 503 views

Flight 1 - Legal Seafood and After Dinner Fireworks (5 Notes)

  • 1998 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune

    France, Alsace

    (8/17/2014)

    By chance, the second time this month. Healthy yellow. More subdued fruit than the last bottle, some petrol perfume. Medium to full bodied, lots of tea framed by strong acidity and driving stoniness. This seemed farther along than the last bottle and wasn't quite as exciting, but it freshened with air, becoming more lemony.

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  • 2005 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant

    France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières-Coulée de Serrant

    (8/17/2014)

    Medium yellow. Beeswax, honey, and pineapple notes-marvelous aromatics. Lush and full in the mouth. The rare Savennières with such ripe fruit that it almost called Vouvray to mind, but the more typical earthiness was there at the end with adequate acidity. Terrific bottle, very forthcoming with zero funk or oxidation. I'd definitely count this as a hit from this hit or miss domain.

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  • 1990 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    (8/17/2014)

    Remarkably deep ruby and primary looking. Forward Burgundian nose of smoke, game, and dark red fruit. Big for Volnay, ripe, pungent red fruit that stops short of being confected. Average acidity and round tannins, good length. A great success and an excellent mouthful if one is willing to look past its size and relative lack of finesse. Its youthfulness and vitality came as a complete surprise.

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  • 1983 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile Vendanges Tardives

    France, Alsace

    (8/17/2014)

    Bright tulip colored, maybe a shade lighter than the '98 Clos Ste. Hune! All mature Riesling smells-soil, smoke, and high toned volatiles. Full bodied and dry. You feel more than taste the fruit. Incredible dry extract that coats the palate with perfect, persistent acidity, rock, and soil. Great length. This is Vendange Tardive only in weight and concentration, not in terms of sweetness or unctuousness. Absolutely glorious, amazing, and sort of like an essence of the Trimbach style in a bottle. Saying that it is not primarily about the fruit is a huge understatement. So good that tonight it outshone the younger Clos Ste. Hune.

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  • 1989 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile Sélection de Grains Nobles Flawed

    France, Alsace

    (8/17/2014)

    Half bottle. Brown like motor oil. Sweet barley corn. Completely oxidized. Our luck ran out with this bottle.

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Flight 2 - Number 9 Park (2 Notes)

  • 2011 Weingut Knoll Riesling Smaragd Ried Kellerberg

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

    (8/18/2014)

    Limpid appearance. Dynamic nose-verbena, lime, and white flowers. A bit lighter and less dense than most Smaragd. Utterly dry despite a head fake on the attack suggesting some residual sugar. Lime and bitter citrus, bright acidity, and quinine aftertaste. Not a true hole, but a subtle mid-palate dip in intensity, but it comes roaring back on the finish. Already excellent at this tender age.

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  • NV Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series Boston Bual Special Reserve

    Portugal, Madeira

    (8/18/2014)

    Dark amber to brown. Nuts and molasses. Taste of fudge, herbs, and citrus rind with resonating acidity. Only moderate sweetness and a mouthwatering saline finish. Terrific.

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Flight 3 - Troquet (2 Notes)

  • 2002 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    (8/19/2014)

    Medium yellow. The essence of Chablis mystery on the nose that makes Dauvissat Preuses so distinctive-salinity, herbs, florality, iodine. It makes you wonder "Could this really have come from a grape?" since the fruit is hardly the main theme. Medium weight and like earlier this year, mineral, bitter lemon, but just a tad short in intensity and acidity. A+ for its characteristics that set it apart from all other Chardonnay, but only B for cut and tension. More likely to decline than improve from this point on.

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  • 1999 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

    (8/19/2014)

    Deep ruby with only the barest fading at the very edge. Exciting, promising nose on first pour with quite confectionary red fruit accompanied by licorice and herb, but this became more reticent. Full feel with an oaky foundation that grew over time. Pungent red fruit that is more tart and less ripe than than the aromatics suggest with a dash of earth eventually showing up. Strong acidity and not unduly tannic at this point. Clearly very young and in evolution. More briary and overtly woody than some of the silkier Dujac Clos de la Roche I've had. I'm not sure where it will wind up, but while powerful, it is certainly not great at this point. If I owned it, I would hold it at least through its 20th birthday and hope for more resolution and sense of delicacy.

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