Kickoff Dinner to Roy Hersh's "Great Seattle Weekend of Port"

Sammamish, WA, USA
Tasted Thursday, May 1, 2003 by Eric with 1,622 views

Introduction

I had the good fortune to be invited by Roy Hersh to the kickoff dinner for his "Great Seattle Weekend of Port." I didn't attend the subsequent events, but given that the wines below were a casual warmup for the real events, that will give you some sort of idea that Roy is pretty darned serious when he organizes such a gathering. Folks arrived from all over the globe, and when I realized that Dirk van der Nieepoort himself was sitting to my left, that's when I started to have some inkling of what was actually going on!

First of all, a very quick note on the food. Rodney Muirhead (who you have probably seen posting on this board) and Elizabeth Montes made the trip up from Portland, OR to cook for this event. I don't have the words in my vocabulary to do justice to the lovely meal they put together, but suffice it to say that the food was elegant, delicious and spoke of local ingredients treated with respect and a deft hand.

THE FOOD

Appetizers included fresh oysters and a variety of delectable bites which have already escaped my memory. There was something with an edamame paste that was just amazing. The first seated course was Dungeness crab "pot pie" which in reality was luscious local crab in buttery puff pastry (served with the Landmark Chard below for the ultimate match). Then we moved to salmon tartare with baby greens and fresh Oregon Wasabi (real Wasabi, not from powder). To cleanse the palate we had pink grapefruit and a delectable rosemary sorbet. And as the heavy red wines hit we had rack of lamb which had been seared off beautifully along with potato gratin and some delicious morels. Heading to dessert, we enjoyed to buttermilk panna cotta with a sauternes gelee, cheese & fruit, and finally some of the most heavenly home made chocolates I have ever encountered. (Thank you, thank you, thank you to Elizabeth. That caramel was unreal!) And now finally to the wines.

Flight 1 - WHITE FLIGHT (3 Notes)

This first set of white wines accompanied the appetizers and early courses.

  • 2002 Cape Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 85 Points

    South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

    Grass, lemon, clean, refreshing. Nice with oysters and appetizers.

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  • 1998 Landmark Chardonnay Damaris Reserve 90 Points

    USA, California, Sonoma County

    35% Sonoma, 33% Santa Barbara, 32% Monterey. Deep gold. Hazelnut and caramel. Silky mouthfeel, really smooth, nice level of oak, balanced. Clean finish with nice acidity. I don't know if this is a 90 point wine on its own, but paired with crab-puff-pie it is *amazing*!

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  • NV Churchill/Graham Porto Branco Dry Apertif 87 Points

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    Orange in color, very spirity on the nose, hot on the palate and finish. There were actually two bottles of this with fairly wide variation. One cloudy, one clear. The cloudy one is much better. The finish was punctuated with a slightly bitter note and somewhat was somewhat clipped. Still very nice!

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Flight 2 - PORTUGUESE DRY REDS (4 Notes)

This was the first time that I have ever had dry reds from Portugal, and frankly I think my low scores have a lot to do with me not really understanding the wines. As a rule, these were all fairly high in acid and better with food than on their own. I think that none of them held up terribly well against the lamb chops.

  • 1999 Niepoort Douro Redoma 86 Points

    Portugal, Douro

    Cotton candy, exploding fruit on the nose. Grippy, acidic, finishes dry. Nice structure to this, chewy tannins. I would wait 3-4 years to drink more of this.

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  • 1997 Quinta do Crasto Touriga Nacional Douro 84 Points

    Portugal, Douro

    Meaty nose. Nice sweetness on the entry. Thin and acidic on the mid-palate and finish.

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  • 2000 Quinta de Brunheda Douro Vinhas Velhas 80 Points

    Portugal, Douro

    Very citric, tart, and somewhat wild nose. On the palate this is awfully dry and green. This appears to be a blend of various Douro varietals fermented as a dry wine rather than as a port.

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  • 1991 Casa Ferreirinha Douro Barca Velha 88 Points

    Portugal, Douro

    A very pretty nose, nicely aged. On the palate this is delicate, elegant, light, and very feminine. Somewhat thin and lacking on the finish. I think this is a wine that one can appreciate spending an evening with. However, a glass served with lamp-chops is not the way to go. The sophisticated wine was overwhelmed by the lamb.

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Flight 3 - AGED BORDEAUX (3 Notes)

Next up was a mini-flight of aged Bordeaux.

  • 1982 Château Léoville Las Cases 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    My bottle. Decanted about 5 hours before drinking, this was still tight and closed as hell. The nose, despite being restrained, still was a stunner with lead pencil and dusty floral notes. On the palate this was stunning, powerful, very complex. The best part was the simply endless finish, one of the best finishes I have ever tasted on a wine. All that said, this wine probably needed to be decanted for a day to really sing, and as it was it mostly tantalizing and hinting of massive potential.

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  • 1970 Château Brane-Cantenac 86 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    This seems a bit over the hill. Very bretty on the nose yet with a sweet entry. On the palate this quickly fades to turn dry and thin and then is gone. Nice while it lasted.

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  • 1966 Château Latour Les Forts de Latour 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    A funky, wonky nose. On the palate this is beautifully resolved. With time in the glass it starts to break up, but while it hangs on it is lovely.

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Flight 4 - BIG AUSSIE REDS (4 Notes)

Next up were some big Aussie reds with one South African wine snuck in for good measure.

  • 1998 Neil Ellis Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Points

    South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

    Another funky nose. This has great fruit and is still very primary. Good juice!

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  • 1992 Seppelt Shiraz Reserve Bin 86 Points

    Australia, South Australia

    Lovely nose. On the palate there is not much complexity. Somewhat hollow with a thin finish.

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  • 1993 Henschke Shiraz Mount Edelstone 93 Points

    Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley

    This was my third taste of a Henschke wine, and this time I was ready for it. The nose has a stunning, almost numbing level of eucalyptus. On the palate this is amazingly powerful with wintergreen elements really rising to the top. The finish is drying and still very tannic yet deeply layered and powerful at the same time. Wow!

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  • 1982 Penfolds Grange 93 Points

    Australia, South Australia

    A stunning nose, deeply medicinal. This has an amazing entry and gorgeous mid-palate. Loads of power, nicely balanced, yet with a somewhat dry finish. This actually didn't hang on in the glass anywhere near as well as I would expect.

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Flight 5 - MADEIRA (3 Notes)

Finally we finished up with a flight of three incredible Madeira from the 19th century. Frankly, all three of these wines left me nearly speechless (as evidenced by an extremely scant page of tasting notes with SPEECHLESS!!!! written at the top of the page). Looking at these bottles of such age just makes one wonder how much the world has seen since the fruit was picked that ultimately made these elixirs...

  • 1875 Barbeito Madeira Malvazia

    Portugal, Madeira

    All three of the Madeira wines left me speechless. This was the least impressive and the only one after the 1872 outbreak of phyloxxera. Still a stunning wine!

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  • 1870 San Martinho Madeira Verdelho

    Portugal, Madeira

    This particular wine was bottled in 1893 and rebottled three times. This is the best Madeira I have ever tasted. It has a cooked onion, nutty element on the palate. It is very dry and remarkably complex. Amazing!

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  • 1834 Barbeito Madeira Malvazia

    Portugal, Madeira

    Another stunning Madeira. Chuck from Seattle Wine Storage refers to this as the "heroin" wine. The first hit is free…

    It is deep brown with a stunning caramel note.

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Closing

Thank you Roy for an incredible experience!

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