An amazing dinner with lots of Italian wines at DBA

DBA
Tasted Sunday, October 12, 2014 by Loren Sonkin with 556 views

Introduction

Last night, my wife and I joined two other couples for a dinner in Akron. We sat at the Chef's tables and enjoyed a lavish 11 course meal that was specifically prepared for the evening. We had the vegetarians option, but I think the omnivores enjoyed their food at least as much. It was amazing. Great food. Awesome company. And some very good wines too.

Flight 1 - An introductory Toast! (1 Note)

  • NV Zardetto Prosecco di Treviso Brut 88 Points

    Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Treviso

    This is a classic Prosecco. Very nice, great value. It might not be a stunner of a wine, but it is consistently very good. I like the Z bottling because for me, it has more fruit and exuberance than many Proseccos. Slight ginger notes, some tropical fruits. Nice medium bubbles, yet good acidity. A nice way to start the evening.

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Flight 2 - With compressed watermelon and cilatro salad: (1 Note)

  • 2011 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis 90 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Roero

    Very nice showing. I have had this wine a lot, but my first time trying the 11. It is a bit rounder with more fruit and less cut than prior years, but within reason for sure. I think it should be consumed young for that reason, but this was delicious. Medium deep golden in color. The nose is all about lemon vanilla cream. some minerality. Round with a lush texture. Enough acidity to carry the food, but this drinks fine on its own too. Nice finish.

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Flight 3 - With watercress, goat cheese mouse and apricots: (1 Note)

  • 2012 Cantina Terlan Chardonnay Terlano Kreuth 88 Points

    Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Terlano

    Nice showing but not quite as good as a prior showings this summer. Its interesting as I am pretty sure this sees no oak, but there is always a bit of a vanilla quality to the wine. Perhaps they use whole clusters and it comes from the stems. This was no exception. Silvery gold in color. The nose has slight grapefruits and vanilla cream. There is a lovely, slightly oily texture which is consistent with prior bottles that I like. Grapefruit on the palate. This seemed a bit flatter than prior bottlings which again, makes it drink more new worldish. I would probably be drinking these up.

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Flight 4 - Served over three courses: (3 Notes)

Pickled vegetable spring roll with gingered pineapple and green apples,
Artisan cheese plate, vegetable terrines, rosemary toasts, blueberry mustard and hummus,
Tomato consommé with spinach and balsamic.

  • 1997 Tenuta Carlina Brunello di Montalcino La Togata 94 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    Wow, this is drinking outstandingly. The nose is amazing. Perhaps the best of the night, easily the best of the flight. This is a winery that in its youth was a poster child for modern internationally styled BdM. At this point, it is drinking beautifully. Is there something in there besides Sangiovese? Who knows. The nose is dusty (think warm attic) with lots of cherries, black raspberries, rosemary and leather. Full bodied. Complex and layered with black raspberry fruit, dried tea leaves and tobacco. Excellent acidity. Long finish. Great with food. Really nice showing.

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  • 2004 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT 92 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT

    The first bottle was corked, but a second bottle was fine. I had this last spring and it has not budged much. It is a great wine, but its glory is in the future. Hold these. Purple in color. The nose is tight with cherries, dark cherries, oak and spice. Great texture. This is not a monster wine, but rather one that is so tightly packed it just needs air or especially time to unwind and develop. It opened a bit in the glass to show cherries, red currants and tobacco notes. Nice acidity. Long finish.

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  • 2001 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 91 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    This seemed in a good place and the extra time in oak seems to have integrated. The nose has brett/barnyard on it. This may have been offensive to some, I enjoyed it and did not find it overt. It is present though. The nose also has some cherries and a bit of smoke. Medium bodied. Nice acidity. Cherries, dust, tea and tobacco. Nice finish. I don't think it will improve from here, but no hurry.

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Flight 5 - Served over two courses: (3 Notes)

Ricotta Cavatelli with sweet pea variations and roasted garlic.
Air dried tomatoes, roasted bell peppers with Creamy Polenta and sauce mornay,

  • 1996 Marcarini Barolo Brunate 93 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    This is in a really pretty place right now. It is mature and probably at peak, but certainly not past based on this bottle. The nose has cherries, dried cherries and rose petals. Medium bodied. Layers of fruit. There is a strong back bone of acidity which really worked well with the food. The food/wine pairings in this flight were the best. The vibrant acidity kept the cherry flavors alive on the palate. Layers of complexity as it drinks. Long finish. This is why one cellars Barolo.

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  • 1997 Mauro Veglio Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata 93 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Of the three Barolos, this seemed to be the one that needed to be drunk the first. That said, it is still at peak and not past it. The nose has dried cherries, potpourri, cherries and crushed leaves. It drinks a bit younger on the palate with cherries, dried cherries and dried wood notes. Nicely balanced. Long finish. It unwinds in the glass to show a great complexity.

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  • 1998 Conterno Fantino Barolo Parussi 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    I thought this the one that seemed to need time still. Perhaps it will never get to the level of complexity of the others, but it seemed compact and like it could. The nose shows cherries, tar and floral notes. Slightly dusty. On the palate, this is tighter but has nice cherry fruit. Nice texture with excellent balance. It did seem to show more in the glass with time.

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Flight 6 - Served with two courses: (2 Notes)

Pepradelle pasta with a variety of tomatoes including san marzano, heirloom and roma,
Truffled risotto with root vegetable variations.

  • 2005 Tua Rita Giusto di Notri Toscana IGT 90 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

    This drinks like a Bordeaux with a decade on it (as it should, it is Cab, Merlot and CF). The nose has cherries, cassis, dried fruit, cigar tobacco and slight bell peppers notes. A nice complexity, it seems to be at peak. Nice acidity. Long finish. On another night, this would be great, but in this company, it lagged a bit. That's really not fair, but so it goes.

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  • 2008 Montevetrano Montevetrano Colli di Salerno IGT 95 Points

    Italy, Campania, Colli di Salerno IGT

    This exceeded my expectations. It was slow-oxed for about 12 hours prior to being served and it needed it. The nose has dark cherries, kirsch, slight dark chocolate and spice. Great lush texture. The fruit jumps out of the glass when drinking. At this point, my palate was starting to fade and this just woke it up. Still young, but really delicious with a nice acidity and complexity. Food friendly as well. While this is a ways from peak, if you have a few, it is worth drinking with lots of air.

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Flight 7 - Served with two courses: (1 Note)

Warm figs, local honey and earl grey ice cream with chocolate lava cake
Rocher with dark chocolate Grenache with hazelnuts and variations of Nutella

Yes, this wasn't Italian, but my wife and I were celebrating our 22nd anniversary, so this was an appropriate finisher.

Also, Gary shared some 97 Macanudo cigars on the back patio next to the fire.

  • 1992 Fonseca Porto Vintage 93 Points

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    The cork was popped and this was shut down. It was decanted for 4 hours then double decanted back to the bottle. At that time, it had really opened but showed some hear. Served about 5 hours later, it was in a great place. The nose has black raspberries, slight raisin and slight dark chocolate. Slightly sweet. Nice complexity. Long finish.

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Closing

I wouldn't/couldn't do this every week, but for a special night, this was great. Thanks to Gary H. for organizing the event!

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