Comte Georges de Vogüe and Domaine Bonneau du Martray tasted with Jean-Luc Pépin
Tasted Thursday, October 23, 2014 by Timbalimba with 595 views
Introduction
Without a doubt, this was the most challenging non-blind tasting in my life. The wines of Comte de Vogüe were incredibly demanding, austere even, to the point of where I started to seriously doubt my judgement. As all wine lovers know, some days are just off when it comes to tasting. I decided to reserve my conclusions until I had some bearing points to reference against. When the whites were finally served and they tasted perfectly open and generous it just confirmed that the reds were incredibly tight and unforgiving. The fact that the ’87 Musigny V.V. served from a half bottle tasted like it was just approaching its peak goes some way to demonstrate the longevity of the Comte de Vogüe reds. These wines, in my opinion, don’t just improve with age but positively demand serious cellar time to reveal their true potential. Today, for me, the 2012’s are interesting and imposing rather than easy to like.
2012 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Open, mesmerising nose of crushed garden raspberry, liqueur de framboise, some spice, blueberry. Evolving in the glass, turning more serious by the minute, darker fruit. Full bodied, ripe, but very high acidity, tannic, strong, confident. Long finish, but dominated by acids and citrus fruits. Needs time. Outstanding quality but not fair to rate now. N/R
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2012 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Raspberry liqueur, now wild raspberry, stems, the aroma of expensive Pinot, pink grapefruit. Full bodied, richer than the village wine, more oak. Finishes strongly as well, surging acidity. Feels more balanced than the village wine at this stage. Outstanding but unfair to rate now. N/R
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2012 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Very primary, muted, almost devoid of high notes at first, then slowly revealing sous-bois, red meat, green stalks, minty green “Coonawarra” notes, intense strawberry fruit. Full bodied, rich, tannic, very primary, unresolved. I wouldn’t touch this for at least 20 years. Far too early to make a call. N/R
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2012 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Less fragrant again, as we move along up the quality and price ladder these wines just get more and more primary. Slowly releasing perfumes of red fruit, toasted oak. Incredibly primary, hard, unresolved. Just forget about it in this decade or the next. Impossible to rate. N/R
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2002 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Ripe red cherry on the nose, tomato, cherry tomatoes, a rich perfume of Persian rugs and hides, plum tomato. Still very young on the palate, strong acidity, plenty of citrus fruits mixed with secondary notes. Intriguing but very challenging. Needs time. Outstanding but no scores today. N/R
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1987 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Deep tertiary notes of barnyard, ancient Rioja aromas, red fruit, dates, figs, sweet cherry, unpasteurised Camembert, decaying cheese. Still acidic, very strong and imposing on the palate, Camembert and raspberry flavours, nuts, spice. Very long on the finish. I can’t believe they made wine of this quality in the 1987 vintage. And this is from a half bottle!
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