Jon Bonné and "The New California" @ E&R
E&R Wine Shop, Portland OR
Tasted Thursday, July 24, 2014 by David Paris with 494 views
Introduction
Aside from some stuff I've had from the 70s and 80s, I haven't found much interesting for my palate coming out of California. The story Jon Bonné is writing is that there's a resurgence of traditional, European styled wine production happening in California. I decided to attend and hear what Jon had to say and try some of the wines he's talking about in this "New" California, which really is more like the old California.
Jon had a lot of interesting things to say... including that he feels that most Chardonnay in Napa should just be ripped up because it's too hot there. Nice to hear, as I totally agree. He also relayed a story of a bunch of the winemakers getting together after Parker decided to stop covering California, and what they were going to do about it if the new coverage didn't like the style of wines they were making. Interesting that no one was talking about how they'd start making wines differently... they all know what they need to do to make lighter styled wines, they're just making these massive wines because that's what's expected of them. Seems most of them would do just fine making lighter styled... so much for blaming it on "global warming".
Overall I definitely liked these wines a lot more than I would a usual random selection from California. That said, there was also nothing all that compelling here when you compare against what these wines cost. I still think there's far better wines for far less money elsewhere in the world. But, at least I didn't hate them... that's a start. Maybe there is hope for California after all...
2012 Forlorn Hope Verdelho Que Saudade 84 Points
USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County
From two vineyards in the Sierra foothills and on the east side of Lodi. Slightly cloudy appearance. Rich aromas, some sulfurous notes but heavy minerality and salinity. Slightly funky rubber and stone fruit. Smells like a volcano erupting. Smooth mouth feel but chalky, chunky notions. Texture is odd, more mineral notes and awkward fruit. Quite spicy finish with off balanced acidic tartness. Not really enjoying the notions left on the tongue after. I need a cracker or something. Strange mineral notes linger.
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2013 Massican Annia 83 Points
USA, California
Rabolla Gialla, Tokaji Fruliano and Charddonay. Saline, ocean mineral tartness on the nose. Smells like an oyster. Odd funky tartness. Funky metallic minerality on the palate; some limestone and melon rind. More funky minerals that aren't too keen. Chunky texture. More fruit on the finish, but primarily this is tart minerality; gnarly wet rocks.
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2012 Arbe Garbe White Wine 91 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
45% Pinog Gris, 40% Malvasia Biano and 15% Gewertz. The winemaker's wife is from Fruli. Sweet apricot aromas with other stone fruit, but this is mixed with a diesel aroma... perhaps some armpit. Over all it's quite different but nice. Softer texture on the palate with notes of lime rind. Rich, nice, sweet acid. Very nice and soft. Tart rich and lush finish. Smooth, with pleasing clean minerality covering the tongue. Nice earthy notes. Lovely.
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2012 Failla Chardonnay Haynes Vineyard 89 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley, Coombsville
No new oak here, all done in stainless and neutral barrels. The vineyard was planted with Chardonnay in 1960 and it's one of the coolest sites in Napa, all dry farmed. Some hefty oak spice on the nose, but there's also nice luscious minerality present. Nice aromatic texture. Very smooth palate with luscious texture. There's some nice minerality, but as it's held in the mouth it begins getting out of balance with the smooth texture. Pretty nice dial up of acid and then toasted marshmallow on the finish. Some sweetness, too. Quite puckering, rich acid lingers long.
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2013 Broc Cellars Valdiguié 90 Points
USA, California, North Coast, Solano County Green Valley
Very green and poppy notes on the nose, coupled with an odd rotting pickle note. Very green... like zucchini strings drug through shit and rubber. Totally odd but interesting. More funk on the palate, but not as much so. Nice smooth acid with good tartness showing nice crisp cranberry flavors. Quite pleasant in the mouth. Very rich eruption of tartness on the finish. Lingers nicely. Really lovely stuff, with great texture and light grittiness.
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2012 Drew Family Cellars Pinot Noir Fog Eater 87 Points
USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
There's 80 inches of rain per year at this site! Crazy. Rich and darkly texture. Very thick and creamy smelling. Quite hefty. Quite dark and thickly textured fruit on the palate with some tannin profile of Pinot Noir, but otherwise too dark in complexion. It's not gushing of fruit, just darkly complected. Nice acid and tartness on the finish but again it does taste more typically of typical California Pinot than was lead on.
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2011 Lioco Indica 88 Points
USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
98% Carignon. Light aromas, some green spiced note. Tart. Tart palate, with slight green notes but good sharp red fruits. Puckering. Nice acid and minerality lingers on the finish. A good quaffer.
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2012 Wind Gap Wines Syrah Nellessen Vineyard 89 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
The same owner as Pax, this comes in at just 12% alcohol. Really odd olive and capers in olive oil note. Very different and interesting. I love that crazy fresh olive note. Soft palate, but kind of gritty in tannic texture. Puckering and rich. It's odd... really no fruit, just the tannic texture. Some fruit on the finish, but mostly it's medicinal notes. Puckering spice, tart tannins. Needs time, but very interesting. Needs more fruit overall, though.
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2012 A Tribute to Grace Wine Company Grenache Santa Barbara Highlands Vineyard 88 Points
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
Vineyard is at 3,000 feet and just 30 miles from the coast. Impressive. Smells like a strawberry glaze filled jelly donut with road tar on top. YUM! Very light palate, smooth, and almost watery in texture. Perhaps like strawberry flavored mineral water. There's some tannins to give away that it's not just water, but it is nearly... More dial up of acid and richness on the finish. Lovely fruit here too. Very nice and sweet. Puckering.
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2011 Ridge Merlot Estate 90 Points
USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
Quite dark in color. Very thick and dark aromas, but balanced and pretty, with pure, soft fruit. Quite smooth palate entry and soft texture. Luscious and smooth. Quite elegant. Rich tastes of american oak, very forward, some acid and tartness, but that wood is imposing and lingering more than elsewhere. Quite big fruited finish. Still nice.
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2011 Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Dark in color. Some hefty green notes and soft spice. Think and dark fruit as well. Dark, heavy ash and spice notes on palate entry. Quite smooth and lightly balanced texture. Nice rich acids. Good richness and tartness on the finish, which is quite puckering. Smooth and soft. Nicely contained and balanced finish.
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