1955 - 2012 wines; Rioja, Champagne, Anderson Valley, Sta. Rita Hills & Anjou-Saumur

Fantastic dinner party. Fit guests with spirited talk about wine, food, running, mountain biking. I foraged in my cellar a half hour before dinnertime for bottles appropriate to the fare, also bringing ample but ultimately unnecessary backups.

• 1996 Pol Roger Champagne Vintage Brut

  France, Champagne

  Very fresh and polished, I've always like this cuvée in '96. Virtually free of oxidative notes, this has years of life remaining. Beautiful citrus and apple fruit, both fine mouse and acidity, and just a touch of bread dough.

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• 2012 Liquid Farm Chardonnay Golden Slope

  USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

  While I've always looked at the White Hill as my go-to LF wine, this bottle really impressed last night. M&M: minerality and mouthfeel, more luscious than the WH. Combines citrus and tropical fruit, with a touch of butterscotch. This was both a crowd-pleaser and a geek-pleaser.

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• 2005 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Corton-Charlemagne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  Starting to absorb its generous oak; has the GC fruit and texture to really shine. Barely a whiff of secondary aromas, still a baby.

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• 1955 Bodegas Bilbainas Rioja Viña Pomal Reserva Especial

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Another bottle to make me think Rioja is indestructible. I wrestled the cork out cleanly in three pieces. Decanted for sediment, then directly to the glassed, it was still slightly cloudy from it transport from my cellar to the dinner party. Alive and beautiful wine, although initially mostly leather and moist earth. This remarkably improved in the glass over several hours, developing a nice sweetness, as well as licorice, cherry, and brown spice notes.

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• 1985 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Gorgeous and youthful wine, and a nice contrast to the '55 Bilbainas Pomal Reserva Especial it followed. Nice cherry, strawberry and orange fruit, punctuated by strong smoke and cedar.

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• 2007 Copain Pinot Noir "En Bas" Kiser

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  Only got a whiff and a small sip of this late into the dinner. The nose was boisterous but the palate chiseled. Still very young and primary. Lots of promise here; I wish it wasn't my last bottle. I would have loved to see where this went in five or ten years.

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• 1995 Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru

  Waxy honey and apricots. Moderately sweet, delicately viscous, clean acidic cut. Paired perfectly with olive oil poppyseed cake with buttermilk gelato.

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Spencer Santanello is a culinary artist and magician. The food flights were equally delicious, gorgeous, unique and perfectly prepared and presented. Every day is a special occasion, but some nights are extraordinary.