Work wine tasting - Triplets

A tasting at home for some friends and colleagues from work. This year I chose a series of varieties, and three examples of each with a cheaper, middle and more expensive option in each flight with the aim of seeing which people preferred. Served blind in threes by (declared) grape variety, in random price order.

• NV Sainsbury's Champagne Blanc de Noirs Brut 89 Points

  France, Champagne

  Magnum. Now getting close to 24 months post-purchase ageing and this is really singing. Stunning value at the £22.50 paid. Fresh and bright still, showing a little richer with air than the mag opened back in January. Really comes in to its own by about day three! Smooth, creamy and a lovely precision and freshness. ***

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A pretty clear progression qualitatively. Preferences varied with the stylistic rather qualitative differences.

• 2007 Hugel Riesling "Hugel" 86 Points

  France, Alsace

  Light and crisp with a nicely fresh Riesling character. No great depth or complexity, but showing well. Good aperitif or seafood style. Has put on a little weight to round itself out over the last four or five years. ***

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• 2006 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Gueberschwihr 88 Points

  France, Alsace

  A little richer and fuller than the 07 Hugel alongside. A sense of RS too, though it finishes dry. Consistent with previous bottles. This would make an excellent food wine for stir fries, oriental food etc. ***

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• 2006 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Clos Häuserer 90 Points

  France, Alsace

  An interesting comparison alongside the straight Gueberschwihr. This is weightier, denser in huge mouth, a little more intense and viscous and with some concentration through the mid palate. A little sweeter on the finish too, still off dry, but a noticeable hit of RS. ***1/2

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The more expensive and the middle wines stood out here. I preferred the Fourrier for a bit more mineral cut, but most liked the smoothness and seemingly lower acidity of the Farrago.

• 2014 The Wine Society Chardonnay Australian Unoaked 84 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale

  Bright and fresh. Does exactly what it says on the label. Tropical fruits, reasonable acidity and decent balance. Good for what it is. **

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• 2010 Domaine Fourrier Bourgogne Blanc 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc

  Consistent with previous notes. A nicely mid-weight, fresh, white burgundy with some interest and complexity. Fresher and brighter than the Farrago alongside with a bit more bite albeit a lighter less densely minerally frame. ***1/2

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• 2010 Kooyong Chardonnay Farrago 90 Points

  Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Mornington Peninsula

  Mid straw. Nicely restrained on the nose with a touch of meal and cream. Similar on attack, good weight with a lightness/elegance of flavour. A chewy, finely chalky minerality and grip through the mid-palate to finish. Quite long. An elegant, restrained style but lacks pizazz and a 'drink me' quality. Very decent, but at forty quid I'd rather be in burgundy I think. ***1/2

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Another clear correlation between price and quality.

• 2013 Cave Saint Verny Pinot Noir 85 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Puy de Dôme

  Pale ruby to garnet, translucent. A nicely earthy and strawberry fruited nose. Similar on palate, lightweight but with good earthy Pinot character. Decent. **1/2

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• 2010 Mark Haisma Pinot Noir Bourgogne 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  Sweeter, brighter fruit, more precision and interest cf the Puy de Dôme alongside. Still relatively light. Bright and transparent with a sappy edge to it. ***

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• 2011 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée

  Denser and noticeable fuller than the two alongside. More complexity and interest too. More serious. Dark red fruit, a glossily velvety texture. Best bottle yet. Bare ****

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Not much between the cheapest and middle wines, but the more expensive Nada a clear step up.

• 2012 Manfredi Nebbiolo d'Alba 87 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Nebbiolo d'Alba

  Quite dark and full. Nicely scented nose, floral and herby. Mid-weight, plenty of grip, though softens nicely with air. Nicely typical and a good finish. Good vfm. ***

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• 2011 Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 88 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

  Similar to previous bottles. Good foundation of acidity, slightly sappy sour cherry fruit upfront with a floaty floral mid-palate. Finishes well. Another good vfm. ***

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• 2007 Giuseppe Nada Barbaresco Riserva Casot 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Consistent with previous bottles. Full, and smoother than the other two nebs alongside. Floral and bright with good lift. Dense velvet on the attack and through the mid palate. Young but very approachable. ****

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The Imperial stood out for its complexity, helped by maturity. Qualitatively, not much in it between the middle and cheapest options.

• 2005 Bodega Classica Rioja Hacienda López de Haro Reserva 88 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  Consistent with previous bottle. Smooth, creamy red fruit and traditionally styled structure. Just the right mix of classic style and more modern oak. Not hugely complex but very good for the money. ***

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• 2005 R. López de Heredia Rioja Crianza Viña Cubillo 88 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Consistent with previous notes. Vibrant and crunchy Rioja with a bit more velvety weight and dark fruit than the more senior wines from the stable. ***

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• 1991 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Reserva 92 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Lovely maturing nose dominated by don't red fruit and freshly ground coffee. A touch of leather and warm fireside in the background. Smooth, velvet to densely silky texture. Complex through the mid palate. Long positive finish. Traditional loveliness. ****

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Really toothsome, food-friendly showing for the generic wine, and a clear step up to the other two, with a bit more left bank complexity coming through in the Tertre which really divided opinion. Not one for new world Merlot drinkers perhaps.

• 2008 JP Moueix Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 87 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

  Nicely mellow and ready with a cedary tobacco nose. Mid weight, a classical frame and a touch of flesh through the middle. Good value. ***

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• 2000 Château d'Aiguilhe 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

  Consistent with previous note at same bash eleven months ago. Smooth, fruity and nicely mellow damson and mulberry fruit with earthy cedary development. Plenty of interest for the price and a point now. ***1/2

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• 2002 Château du Tertre 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Nicely cedary and floral on the nose. Some tobacco too, almost a sense of the Graves against the Margaux perfume; a herbal freshness. Quite dry on the finish in a traditional style, but enough fruit and depth for balance. Lovely nose, I keep coming back to this. ****

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This didn't go strictly with price, though the Swiss franc probably skews things a bit.

• 2009 E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône 87 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

  This is improving. Good dense core of dark red fruit, a touch of spice. Starting to show some development around the edges, but still pretty primary. ***

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• 2009 Provins Syrah Maitre de Chais 86 Points

  Switzerland, Valais, Sion

  Really quite light, especially in the company. Quite pretty and floral across the top, but it does get overwhelmed a bit. Impression is low *** but judgement probably best reserved until the next bottle.

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• 1998 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Cornas Domaine de Saint Pierre 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

  Dark and dense with some dark red-fruited and a faint hint of spice. Seems a little sullen and maybe lacking a little brightness. As per the 95 when last tasted, this is a polite Cornas. Again, suffering from being wine 21/21, but I think this will be ok. ***1/2 but with upside.

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