A Christmas Eve to Remember: 2014

I couldn't have asked for more this Christmas Eve. The wines were incredible, the company was even better. What's more, tasting the '87 Unico and '04 Dom Ruinart as a Christmas Eve treat with my team at Morrell. This was seriously a day to remember.

All I can say is WOW! After tasting the 2004 Ruinart, the first thing I did was buy another bottle. The Unico was simply amazing, and so incredibly young. What a shame that so few people understand what the Ribera del Duero is truly capable of.

• 2004 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 96 Points

  France, Champagne

  The nose was fresh, intense, and utterly Burgundian with crushed flowers, saline minerals, white cherry, stone fruits, and smoke. Wonderfully textured on the palate with mineral-infused stone, peach, sour apple and inner floral tones. The 2004 Dom Ruinart grabs your attention and keeps you coming back to the glass. It’s a Champagne you can spend time with and never grow tired of.

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• 1987 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único 94 Points

  Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

  The nose was wonderfully alive with rich dried cherry, sweet spice, dusty potpourri, bakers chocolate, hints of orange peel, and undergrowth. On the palate, it was tense with silky textures and a mouth-watering bitter twang as dark fruits with a hint of citrus gave way to savory herbs and beef broth. The finish was long with tart, dark fruit and hints of herbs. It was fresh and youthful yet maturing all the same, what a gorgeous wine.

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Enjoyed with German cuisine: Kassler Rippchen, sauerkraut, potato dumpling with pork reduction sauce, broiled string beans and creamed spinach.
The Champagne floor me, yet another bottle which I must buy more of. So deep and layered, yet so refined.
The Carlisle was a lesson in balance. Yet another Carlisle to convince me that I should be on this list.
As for The Rioja, an incredible value in wine for today or twenty years down the road.
And what is there to say about the 1989 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc? Stunning, intense, superior quality, amazing youthfulness--yet drinking beautifully. Drop-dead gorgeous!

• 2008 Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Premier Cru Terre de Vertus 93 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  The nose was pure and lively with saline minerals and apple up front, followed by fresh brioche and spring floral notes. On the palate, it was smooth with lively bubbles giving way to spiced apple, inner florals and minerals, which lasted through the finish. Expressive, detailed and fun; what more can I ask for?

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• 2005 Carlisle Syrah Dry Creek Valley 94 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

  Intense yet finessed on the nose, showing mushroom, undergrowth and musk up front, yet with time its fruit began to emerge, revealing dark wild berry, savory herbs, pepper and spice. On the palate, it was velvety smooth with pleasing textures as ripe blackberry, plum and exotic spice seemed to saturate the senses. It was intense with a hint of heat, yet never tiring with notes of dark chocolate and menthol lasting throughout the finish. This was a perfect synergy of Rhone meets and Cali, and a wine I will look for again.

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• 1998 Bodegas Hermanos Peciña Rioja Señorío de P. Peciña Gran Reserva 93 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  Utterly classic Rioja, as my first foray to the rim of the glass revealed dark-fruit, vanilla and spice, yet quickly blossomed to show dried florals, leather and dark soil. On the palate, it was soft--almost weightless--with red berry, plum, leather, notes of spice and pepper; all kept lively by its brisk acidity. Notes and tobacco, dried fruits and a hit of red licorice lingered on the finish. This was still remarkably young, and should continue to gain in both complexity and presence on the palate.

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• 1989 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc 96 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Dark, rich, elegant, balanced and utterly seductive; the 1989 Paolo Scavino Bric del Fiasc is a dark beauty of incredible depth and intensity. The nose opens to reveal a sweeter side of Nebbiolo with ripe, dark red fruit, spice and tobacco, yet with time in the glass, more detailed notes of dried flowers, soy, undergrowth and menthol emerge. On the palate, it remains youthful and slightly firm, yet set perfectly on it's evolutional path. Dried cherry, leather, spice and bakers chocolate seems to saturate the senses with a contrast of brisk acidity keeping it lively and fun. This is perfect example of just how classic 1989 Barolo truly is.

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