Mini Azelia Vertical

Tasted '07 Azelia together with '99 and '96 San Rocco. The young wine was included to contrast the less fruit dominant older baroli. The '99 was to me more interesting that '96 because the fruit was more pronounced and engaging.

• 2007 Azelia Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Young wine with still unresolved tannins. The wood seems to provide a darker feel and taste, with mushroomy, earthy aromas coloring the palate. The young and aromatic fruit is lush and provides the aromatic complexity -- tar, sap, dusty roses. Good, should improve.

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• 1999 Azelia Barolo San Rocco

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Took over an hour to shed the barn aromas. The color is strong, with very little bricking. A vein of appealing succulent and fleshy, smoky, red sweet cherry flavor run through this barolo. It sparkles against the dominant backbone of woody and balsamic aromas -- soy, newly redone wood flooring, soaked wine barrel, roasted branzino. Still interesting and better than '96. Drink up while the fruit still holds up.

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• 1996 Azelia Barolo San Rocco

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  More washed out than '99. Less woody aromas, but the fruit is more tannic and sour -- cranberries and zest rather than ripe cherries. The flavors are more integrated -- thinking holiday fruit cake, but the overall profile is more monotone and ultimately less exciting. Don't see a compelling reason to hold on much longer.

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